Tikka T3X Tac A1 or Christensen Arms MPR?

Screwtop.243 · Sep 15, 2018

Given the choice, which one would you go for? I know, not entirely an apples to apples comparison (other than the fact they are both chassis rifles) but just curious if anyone has had experience with either one of them and has any thoughts? This would be in 6.5 CRDM w/ 24" tube. I'd use it for "long range" plinking and hunting.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Tikka but it's a tank at over 11 lbs., (MPR is 3 lbs. lighter). The Tikka still has the price advantage, for sure.

I don't know much about Chritensen arms or carbon fiber wrapped barrels for that matter. They look cool but I'm a "form follows function" guy, so if carbon fiber wrapped barrels are a passing "fad" or inferior in any significant way, I'm out. I understand their chief purpose is cutting weight but at what cost?

Thanks for any feedback.

balttigger · Sep 15, 2018

Not familiar with either personally, but I have not heard anything but amazing things about the Christensen. Personally, I am debating a Bergara.

davsco · Sep 15, 2018

i'd look over at snipershide and see if this has been discussed there.

INMY01TA · Sep 16, 2018

I’d take a Tikka T3 but get the CTR instead, then drop it in the chassis of your choice. Tikka’s chassis uses dedicated mags.

4g64loser · Sep 16, 2018

Ok, take my opinions with the following consideration: I am an admitted Sako/Tikka fan.

My current 308 long range rig is built on a Tikka T3 that has been refitted with a Krieger barrel and XLR chassis. I don't like the proprietary mag thing, but otherwise the Tikka chassis rifles are good to go. Seen plenty at matches and they seem to be solid. I advocate for folders as it makes cleaning possible without monkeying with your cheekpiece. The carbon fiber wrapped barrels can be (and usually are) accurate but remember that carbon fiber is an INSULATOR not a conductor of heat. Last time i saw Proof research guys shooting this summer, it was with standard SS match barrels. Keep that in mind. I know a couple guys that run such tubes, but they are for hunting rifles. One is a particularly impressive shooter but it is not the guy's PRS gun. Also bear in mind that, should you want to upgrade or modify your rig, the Tikka will likely be easier to support. I have been shooting them since before they were really popular here so i am used to making things myself or having custom parts made. This may or may not bother you.

Factory precision with the T3s I have owned, worked with, or seen shot by others I trust has been generally good. I worked up a T3 varmint in .22-250 (set up in chassis with some other mod work) for a friend that was a .4in gun (5rnds) with a developed handload. Unlike most factory guns, it had a respectably short throat that allowed a good length tune without rechambering. Have worked with several 223 and 308 heavy barreled factory T3s that were very good shooters. All made the factory sub moa guarantee, and my own 308 was a .6-.7 when in factory trim. My only frustrations were that the throat (like every factory 308 I have encountered) had excessive freebore and thus projectiles seated to correct length would not fit in the magazine and that the barrel was only 20in. Keep in mind that all of the performance described here is with an unmodified factory receiver (no "blueprinting" or bolt sleeving needed on any I have seen) and that when a premium Krieger match barrel was fitted to my 308 it has turned in 5 round groups just over .2 and regularly shoots .3-.4 when the nut behind the trigger is adjusted correctly (these are prone from bipod and rear bag, a good bench shooter might be able to do better).

Make your own choices based on preference. If what you get doesnt work for you, sell it or take it to a good smith for a tune up.

Screwtop.243 · Sep 17, 2018

4g64loser said:
Ok, take my opinions with the following consideration: I am an admitted Sako/Tikka fan.

My current 308 long range rig is built on a Tikka T3 that has been refitted with a Krieger barrel and XLR chassis. I don't like the proprietary mag thing, but otherwise the Tikka chassis rifles are good to go. Seen plenty at matches and they seem to be solid. I advocate for folders as it makes cleaning possible without monkeying with your cheekpiece. The carbon fiber wrapped barrels can be (and usually are) accurate but remember that carbon fiber is an INSULATOR not a conductor of heat. Last time i saw Proof research guys shooting this summer, it was with standard SS match barrels. Keep that in mind. I know a couple guys that run such tubes, but they are for hunting rifles. One is a particularly impressive shooter but it is not the guy's PRS gun. Also bear in mind that, should you want to upgrade or modify your rig, the Tikka will likely be easier to support. I have been shooting them since before they were really popular here so i am used to making things myself or having custom parts made. This may or may not bother you.

Factory precision with the T3s I have owned, worked with, or seen shot by others I trust has been generally good. I worked up a T3 varmint in .22-250 (set up in chassis with some other mod work) for a friend that was a .4in gun (5rnds) with a developed handload. Unlike most factory guns, it had a respectably short throat that allowed a good length tune without rechambering. Have worked with several 223 and 308 heavy barreled factory T3s that were very good shooters. All made the factory sub moa guarantee, and my own 308 was a .6-.7 when in factory trim. My only frustrations were that the throat (like every factory 308 I have encountered) had excessive freebore and thus projectiles seated to correct length would not fit in the magazine and that the barrel was only 20in. Keep in mind that all of the performance described here is with an unmodified factory receiver (no "blueprinting" or bolt sleeving needed on any I have seen) and that when a premium Krieger match barrel was fitted to my 308 it has turned in 5 round groups just over .2 and regularly shoots .3-.4 when the nut behind the trigger is adjusted correctly (these are prone from bipod and rear bag, a good bench shooter might be able to do better).

Make your own choices based on preference. If what you get doesnt work for you, sell it or take it to a good smith for a tune up.

I appreciate this information very much and although some of it is not applicable to my shooting situation(s), it is interesting and thought provoking nonetheless. I don't shoot PRS matches - don't expect that I ever will but I like to hear the opinions of guys that do. I really like the Tikka but like you said, at the end of the day I'll make my choice based on preference. I'm drawn to the Christensen Arms MPR because for me it offers something different - I'm a champion of diversity when it comes to firearms. I'll use it for 300-500 yard plinking/hunting and don't expect to be shooting any timed 10 shot strings out of it or anything like that, so maybe I'm a little less concerned about the carbon fiber barrel and can appreciate the cool factor a bit more. The only mod I really see doing to it would be a hogue type grip. Otherwise, it will remain pretty much stock.

4g64loser · Sep 17, 2018

Here's a loop---buy a Tikka T3 Lite in the flavor of your choice (stainless or carbon steel). Have a good smith stick a Proof or Christensen carbon fiber sleeved tube in it, and drop it in the chassis of your choice.

Given that you aren't planning to get the gun hot and can exhibit fire discipline I would be less concerned about the sleeved barrel. They are nice for hiking around. I know a guy with a T3, proof carbon barrel, and manners carbon fiber stock. very light for the performance it offers.

Intended purpose is the key driver in any rifle design, or at least should be. I am willing to lug a rather heavy varmint gun around but I am absolutely sure of the performance I will get out of it. My partner even goes one up and lugs around a varmint weight rifle (with can) when he's deer hunting. On the other hand, he has taken game at distances most wouldn't even try.

When you pick a new grip, fondle every different kind you can. I use an ERGO on my XLR chassis, a match buddy uses a DPMS with palm shelf, and another guy we know uses the MPA grip. The grip you choose really does make a difference. Your specific grip style plays into the choice as well. I do not wrap my thumb and, for precision, do not wrap my fingers either. I "knuckle up" and the tips of my last three fingers rest on the leading edge of the grip. It helps me isolate my trigger finger and avoid any sympathetic movement of the stock. The guy with the DPMS grip is a full on "grip and rip" type who grabs hold hard and pulls the stock into his shoulder with the trigger hand. Mr MPA is halfway between us. He doesn't wrap thumb but he does fully wrap his fingers and palm. think hard and buy the grip that best suits your shooting style.

OrbitalEllipses · Sep 18, 2018

4g64loser said:
Here's a loop---buy a Tikka T3 Lite in the flavor of your choice (stainless or carbon steel). Have a good smith stick a Proof or Christensen carbon fiber sleeved tube in it, and drop it in the chassis of your choice.

This is good advice. I’ve seen NOS and used Tikka T3s in unpopular calibers easily into the $300 and occasionally lower range. Just make sure the factory cartridge uses the same bolt face diameter and you’re good to go.

Arguably the only things the Tac A2 gets you is the three-pos safety and two stage trigger, things that I wouldn’t worry about generally as Tikka rifles have exploded in popularity and you should see replacement triggers coming down the road.

4g64loser · Sep 18, 2018

I am not going to suggest doing it for every rifle out there, but I have done tikka triggers (single stage, with OEM housings and parts) under two pounds perfectly safely with no interruption of safety function. If you truly desire the best trigger out there and do not want to do surgery on your own unit, I suggest Barnard (the company that makes those great three lug benchrest actions) as they make a unit for the tikka.

Tikka T3X Tac A1 or Christensen Arms MPR?

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