Oh okay cool, I don't plan on doing anything as far as upgrades for now, just a basic stock gun like you said.
Deal on Polymer80 compact.
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Oh okay cool, I don't plan on doing anything as far as upgrades for now, just a basic stock gun like you said.
Fox123
Ultimate Member
Keep in mind the locking block and the plastic pin from your photo you will not need.
The "snappiness" of .40 is grossly overrated and is basically an urban myth IMHO. Now granted, it's got more recoil than a 9mm, especially out of a smaller lighter gun, this is simple physics, bigger hunk of lead traveling at a higher velocity equals more recoil, there's no free lunch here. If you are any kind of pistol shot you will quickly adapt to the perceived and felt recoil of the .40, and you'll master it in no time.
You want "snappy"...?? OK, I took my brand new Glock 20 to the range yesterday... I had it loaded with some 180 gr plated bullet handloads that Chrono'd @ 1170 fps.. Now these were fairly snappy compared to .40 loads with the same bullet, and they weren't even loaded "hot". With a published maximum load of Power Pistol powder I could get this same bullet weight in the 10mm coming out of the pipe @ just shy of 1300 fps...
NOW That's gonna be snappy..
The G20 is a big heavy gun, but it absorbs the recoil well, and after firing a couple mags and settling down I fired the the target below from 35 ft. standing with a two handed grip. I'm satisfied that this is a "Felon tamer" level of accuracy out a very powerful gun with relatively snappy recoil..
Attachments
Magnumite
Ultimate Member
When the 40 S&W first appeared it was claimed to have recoil between the 9 and 45. I purchased two Para Ordnance pistols, one in 40 and one in 45. Shooting 180 grain 40 ball and 230 grain 45 ball there wasn't near the difference in recoil that was proclaimed. I wasn't interested in trying any lighter bullets so I sold the 40.
I think felt recoil is a combination of power to weight ratio combined with the shooters forearm strength. Personally, I can shoot Federal 9mm 115gr FMJ @ 350 ft-lbs all day long in my 34 oz Beretta 92SB. On the other hand, my wrist is crying uncle after a box of Federal .380 ACP 95 gr FMJ @ 200 ft-lbs gets pumped through my 9 oz Ruger LCP.
The only way to tell if .40 Cal is for you is to go out and shoot it. I shot a buddy's Sig Sauer .40 Cal (not sure which model, pricey and really nice though) shooting 180gr Golden Saber JHPs and I really couldn't tell much difference in recoil from my Beretta 9mm shooting 147gr HSTs. I just remember that Sig totally surprised me (in a good way) after reading all the bad press about .40 S&W snappiness.
The only way to tell if .40 Cal is for you is to go out and shoot it. I shot a buddy's Sig Sauer .40 Cal (not sure which model, pricey and really nice though) shooting 180gr Golden Saber JHPs and I really couldn't tell much difference in recoil from my Beretta 9mm shooting 147gr HSTs. I just remember that Sig totally surprised me (in a good way) after reading all the bad press about .40 S&W snappiness.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
Some say 357SIG is snappy, a 125gr round doing better than 1350fps - but I haven't had any issues with the round in this build. To add to canstop's thought, I really do feel the design of the gun being used also comes into play with felt recoil.
My M&P in 357SIG, wasn't snappy - but it was 'different'. You felt it more in the heel of the firing hand, took some getting used too. In the G17 and G19 builds, it's a pussycat - bark is worse than the bite.
Hell, when the G17 build sheared the rail and went cyclic - it was downright enjoyable, and I kept it on target too.
My M&P in 357SIG, wasn't snappy - but it was 'different'. You felt it more in the heel of the firing hand, took some getting used too. In the G17 and G19 builds, it's a pussycat - bark is worse than the bite.
Hell, when the G17 build sheared the rail and went cyclic - it was downright enjoyable, and I kept it on target too.
Like to see you do that with a 10mm... keep it on target that is..
All joking aside, I think anything going rock and roll unexpectedly like that would scare the living piss outta me..
I shoot 9mm, .40, .45, and 10mm out of a variety of Glocks and M&P's, even in the same caliber different bullet weights have slightly different felt recoil in the same gun, but I don't find any of them uncomfortable to shoot.
Ever heard of the .500 Linebaugh..?? It pushes a 435 gr. bullet@ 1300 fps...
Note how close the front side blade is to this dudes noggin in the pic below... Now that's severe recoil, I think if I ever shot one of these I would wear a football helmet the first time...Attachments
Magnumite
Ultimate Member
I had to opportunity to shoot a friend's 475 Linbaugh, Bowen Ruger conversion with Ruger Bisley grip frame. Its a handful with full power loads. Strong grip is the most important factor in managing the recoil. The recoil was not close to what is in the pic above.
Range Report
Well. The good news is bullets came out and went where I pointed.
The bad news is that out of about 20 shots exactly zero successful cycles. 19 were failures to eject. 1 was a combo failure to eject and failure to feed.
I brought my factory gen4 19 too for comparison and my conclusion is that the factory has buttery smooth action while my P80 is sandy gears and crunchy.
I'm going to double check that spring and then work on the action with grease and what not.
So....making progress but not ready for prime time yet. Probably not ready for late night even.
Well. The good news is bullets came out and went where I pointed.
The bad news is that out of about 20 shots exactly zero successful cycles. 19 were failures to eject. 1 was a combo failure to eject and failure to feed.
I brought my factory gen4 19 too for comparison and my conclusion is that the factory has buttery smooth action while my P80 is sandy gears and crunchy.
I'm going to double check that spring and then work on the action with grease and what not.
So....making progress but not ready for prime time yet. Probably not ready for late night even.
My build was topped with a factory brand new slide, there wasn't any binding but it was a bit tight overall, and just didn't seem as "buttery smooth" as my factory G19.
First trip to the range I greased the the slide rail grooves and the rails on the slide, but I was getting about 50% failure to eject "stovepipes". Next trip I put in a #15 lb. recoil spring (stock is #17) which brought the FTE's down to about 20% or a bit less. Third trip out I used a #13 lb. spring and presto my problem was solved. I'm going to stick with the #13 for a few hundred rounds, then I'll see if it starts to break in and smooth up enough to go back up to the #15, if that's successful I'll eventually work my way back up to the stock factory #17 lb. spring. Bottom line... you may need to try a lighter spring until it breaks in a little.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
Like to see you do that with a 10mm... keep it on target that is..
All joking aside, I think anything going rock and roll unexpectedly like that would scare the living piss outta me..
I shoot 9mm, .40, .45, and 10mm out of a variety of Glocks and M&P's, even in the same caliber different bullet weights have slightly different felt recoil in the same gun, but I don't find any of them uncomfortable to shoot.
Ever heard of the .500 Linebaugh..?? It pushes a 435 gr. bullet@ 1300 fps...
I'd be one of the few crazy bastards willing to at least try. (Recoil junky)
Have heard of it, haven't had the chance to shoot one though - full face helmet probably wouldn't be a bad idea...
4" S&W .500 with 500gr XTP's is fun - even with a broken thumb. Guy let me have a full cylinder with it, couldn't pass it up. Hurt, but not enough to stop shooting it. (I may not be right in the head.)
Thanks for the tip. I probably need to try that.
The "snappiness" of .40 is grossly overrated and is basically an urban myth IMHO. Now granted, it's got more recoil than a 9mm, especially out of a smaller lighter gun, this is simple physics, bigger hunk of lead traveling at a higher velocity equals more recoil, there's no free lunch here. If you are any kind of pistol shot you will quickly adapt to the perceived and felt recoil of the .40, and you'll master it in no time.
You want "snappy"...?? OK, I took my brand new Glock 20 to the range yesterday... I had it loaded with some 180 gr plated bullet handloads that Chrono'd @ 1170 fps.. Now these were fairly snappy compared to .40 loads with the same bullet, and they weren't even loaded "hot". With a published maximum load of Power Pistol powder I could get this same bullet weight in the 10mm coming out of the pipe @ just shy of 1300 fps...
The G20 is a big heavy gun, but it absorbs the recoil well, and after firing a couple mags and settling down I fired the the target below from 35 ft. standing with a two handed grip. I'm satisfied that this is a "Felon tamer" level of accuracy out a very powerful gun with relatively snappy recoil..
Yeah I think I'll be able to shoot the 40 just fine, from watching video's on YouTube it be looking like the 40 is jumping all over the place and follow up shots be all over the target during rapid fire. But ill have to see more myself. Another caliber I was looking at on YouTube was the 357sig and that bad boy round is a beast, however it was jumping all over the place as Well in the hands of the few people I watched on YouTube. I just want to be able to mag dump without my weapon missing and being all over the place.
That's pretty good shooting in your picture though, was it rapid fire or slow and steady?
The glock 380 we shot at the range recoil was non existent. It was so mild it was like it wasn't even shooting lol.
It is amazing what an extra 40% handgun weight can do to reduce recoil.
Slow and steady. I probably won't try any rapid fire with the 10mm until I get a little more experienced with it, and even then I expect the group size to open up considerably. Hey, maybe with rapid fire I could hit the guy in the Groin like BradMac's mom does.... Ouch!....
Hang in there. I don't have any great advice. So far, I greased the rails and slide rail channels and manually worked the action 2 - 3 hundred times. Cleaned off all this grease. Put a few dabs of grease on the slides and channels. Sprayed down the barrel and trigger parts with Ballistol. Then shot about 100 rounds through it with no failures.
I then cleaned it well and gave it the same dabs of grease, but just a bit of Ballistol on the barrel and slide rail channels and pumped 150 rounds through it. Still no issues. I've used 115, 124, 135 & 147 grain ammo. FMJ & JHP, brass and aluminum case all worked fine.
FWIW, I'm using all Glock 19 factory parts. I did the 25 cent trigger job (with a bit of pocket stone deburring).
The biggest issue I had during the build was getting the rear rails seated properly. It was like they were bent while I tried to install them. The trigger parts were squeezed in tight. I messed with this until it seemed right, and then punched the pin through locking the rails and extractor in place.
YMMV. This is just what I had to do. I really like how this gun shoots. I can keep 15 shots on paper with an NRA 14" target at 50 feet. Not as good as Shoobee, but pretty good for me.
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j_h_smith
Ultimate Member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 28,516
Any time I do any work on a Glock (meaning replace parts), I dry fire the pistol a MINIMUM of 1000 times. It's a completely different pistol after that. I would recommend anyone building one to do this as well.
Good luck to all.
That's sound advice. To be fair I've been shooting mostly handloads, they are somewhat on the mild side in terms of velocity and pressure compared to full powered factory loads, so that may account for some of the FTE's, full power factory ammo improved matters some, but only marginally, so I think I just need to shoot it more to loosen up a bit, and that's half the fun right...??
There are no excessive wear spots on the frame rails or the slide, so I really have no obvious explanation other than it's just on the "snug fit" side of things, and will eventually be just fine with enough cycling of the action.
After reading all these posts and different peoples experiences with various issues etc., I've come to the conclusion that the one constant in all of this is that each one these builds is unique in it's own way, but there's enough people doing these that there is a wealth of information available to cure almost any problem, and that's a good thing IMHO.
FWIW, I replaced the slide lock spring (that I had trimmed) with a factory new one. I deburred it with a pocket stone and used a 3/32 punch to seat it. It took quite a bit of force using the punch, but it seated just fine.
While I was at it, I degreased the rails and slide with alcohol. I completely stripped the slide and removed grease, oil and dirt from all of the parts. I basically followed the routine hickok45 did in his videos.
So my next time at the range will be with a fairly dry setup.
While I was at it, I degreased the rails and slide with alcohol. I completely stripped the slide and removed grease, oil and dirt from all of the parts. I basically followed the routine hickok45 did in his videos.
So my next time at the range will be with a fairly dry setup.
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