12 gauge vs 20 gauge

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • WSM

    Rugeritis
    Oct 8, 2009
    6,364
    Lancaster, PA
    I think a lot of the soreness comes from my impressive man boobs and the heel of the stock getting kicked into some really soft tissue. I used to shoot my uncle's 3 1/2 mag 12 gauge for turkey and crows and I never had an issue with soreness. Granted I wasn't shooting 100 rounds off a skeet deck but I would definitely shoot around a box or two hunting crows and wouldn't have any issues, that was also 10 years and 75 lbs ago.
     
    I own a lot of shotguns and I am a certified NSCA instructor.

    First....if you can only swing one gun financially, then choose a 12 gauge pump and get a slug barrel and a field barrel with interchangeable chokes.

    The reality is..... it is tuff to get one gun to do the best in every circumstance.

    For Turkey my preference is either a 3 1/2" 12 or a 10 gauge autoloader or pump

    Geese and Ducks 3 - 3 1/2" 12 gauge autoloader or pump

    Clays 3 " 12 gauge O/U

    The 20 gauge will develop the same or greater felt recoli as a 12 gauge due to the decrease in weight. Also typical 12 gauge clay loads will afford you 1 - 1 1/8 oz of shot while the 20 gauge equivalent is only 7/8 oz. This affords you greater distance and forgiveness.

    If you were having issues with being beat up... I would think it had to do with your mount. I would suggest a lesson with someone that shoots a lot of shotgun.

    Before long you will be cranking out hundreds of rounds at clays in a single day.
     

    Cochise

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 5, 2008
    1,384
    Rockville
    Dont get me wrong, the 20 will work for waterfowl. It just wont work as well and wont work well at all with Steel. If you are willing to go to ammo like Heavy Shot, Tungsten Matrix or Bismuth it will work pretty well at about $3 every time you pull the trigger and you will have to look alot harder for ammo too.
    I own about a dozen duck guns, for Geese I use a 10ga double, ducks anything from 2 3/4 12 gauge hammergun with Bismuth to 3 or 3 1/2 with either steel (which sucks ballistically but is cheap) or Bismuth or one of the Tungsten No Tox heavy as lead alternatives.
    The smaller the gauge the more of an expert shot you need to be and the better you will need to be at calling your game in closer.
    Small gauge guns are for experts not beginners.
     

    Mikeyworks

    Active Member
    Sep 20, 2007
    205
    Bel Air, MD
    I think if you're going to shoot 100 rounds of anything without doing it on a regular basis, you're going to be sore. That said, a recoil pad will likely help get rid of some of the pain, but with with pain comes strength and experience.

    I have a Maverick 88, brethren to the Mossberg 500, and I love it to death. It's a great duty gun. It will take a lickin' and keep on tickin'.
     

    Treeguy

    Active Member
    Jan 14, 2010
    453
    Boonsboro
    I never felt a 12 ga. with target loads was bad, it how you hold the gun to your shoulder...now 3" mag high vel. loads is another story.

    As for 12 vs 20 ga

    Always go with a 12. ga. I cant see why anyone would hunt turkey or waterfowl with a 20 ga. Maybe a kid becasue they are short and light but not a man.

    The nockdown power is way improved by the 12 ga payload..and turkeys and geese need all you got to throw at them for clean kills unless you take 15 yard shots
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,429
    Messages
    7,281,402
    Members
    33,452
    Latest member
    J_Gunslinger

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom