Gas furnace problems

gamer_jim · Oct 26, 2013

My propane furnace is on the fritz. Error code being thrown is ignition problem. Glow plug is lighting up and getting warm but no ignition. I'm not smelling any gas either. Propane stove and dryer are working. Makes me think the regulator in the furnace is busted.

Anyone want this business to fix it or tell me what's wrong? I'd rather hire an MDS'er than someone unknown from the yellow pages. Send me a PM please if you or can recommend someone.

Thanks in advance.

Objee · Oct 26, 2013

Can you remove and clean the flame sensor? Usually just scratch it clean with a small knife or even steel wool. I had that happen one time, and a 30 second fix was all it took.

Weber · Oct 26, 2013

He is not getting a flame, so no point of cleaning the flame sensor...

Check your gas supply, make sure you don't have a shut off valve turned off, or the switch on the gas valve turned off.

jonathanglock · Oct 26, 2013

Could be the glow plug itself, I had a bad one in an oven once. Even though it glowed, it was bad because the amps flowing through it wasn't exactly what it was supposed to be.

FNG Andrew · Oct 27, 2013

Yea same here. I believe its called the igniter.

rseymorejr · Oct 27, 2013

Make sure you have gas to the furnace and then see if you have voltage to the gas valve when the ignitor is lit. The valve may be stuck and sometimes a light tap with a screwdriver handle can shake it loose.

Robert · Oct 27, 2013

Weber said:
He is not getting a flame, so no point of cleaning the flame sensor...

Check your gas supply, make sure you don't have a shut off valve turned off, or the switch on the gas valve turned off.

This

Since you are getting all the way through the start up sequence and fails at the valve opening (Initial gas entry) your possibilities are:

1) No gas to valve. (or valve shut off)
2) Bad control board
3) Defective wiring
4) Bad gas valve
5) on some systems; open thermal Safety

jonathanglock said:
Could be the glow plug itself, I had a bad one in an oven once. Even though it glowed, it was bad because the amps flowing through it wasn't exactly what it was supposed to be.

Unless it's a fairly new (1-2 year old high end unit), the ignition system is going to be based on time, not amperage. You may be thinking about an oven safety valve setup which uses the amperage from the igniter to cause the valve plate to heat up and warp, causing the valve to open.

jaybee · Oct 27, 2013

igniter has to get the sensor hot enough before the sensor opens the gas valve. if the sensor is dirty, it won't sense the igniter heat.

I used to clean mine with a tooth brush, usually after it sat all summer

Weber · Oct 27, 2013

jaybee said:
igniter has to get the sensor hot enough before the sensor opens the gas valve. if the sensor is dirty, it won't sense the igniter heat.

I used to clean mine with a tooth brush, usually after it sat all summer

No it doesn't.

rseymorejr · Oct 27, 2013

jaybee said:
igniter has to get the sensor hot enough before the sensor opens the gas valve. if the sensor is dirty, it won't sense the igniter heat.

I used to clean mine with a tooth brush, usually after it sat all summer

The ignitor lights and the gas comes on. If the sensor doesn't sense a flame the gas goes off. If the burner would light and go out the sensor may be dirty.

gamer_jim · Oct 28, 2013

Thanks for advice so far. Can anyone recommend a licensed HVAC that services Carroll County?

pbharvey · Oct 28, 2013

Frederick Air. http://www.frederickair.com

90gsx · Oct 28, 2013

If you have a automatic damper, make sure that it is opening. Mine was stuck closed and the burners would not turn on because of it. I did some research and this is a common problem.

I opened it by hand but it just kept open and closing by itself. I found a switch on the motor that keeps the damper open and it works now.

gamer_jim · Oct 29, 2013

Repair guy just left. Turns out the flameout sensor had tripped. He reset it and let it ignite and told me to stand back. Flame came out towards us, tripped the sensor then it went off again. He said you have a hole inside the furnace causing air to come up through the part where the flame goes down.

Hopefully it is still under warranty, only 12 years old. If it is then $2-300 in labor and parts. If it's not then he said I'm looking at $1-2k for a replacement.

I ended up going with Naylor Plumbing. I forgot that I had used them for our water system repair last year.

Thanks again everyone for advice.

Robert · Oct 29, 2013

gamer_jim said:
Repair guy just left. Turns out the flameout sensor had tripped. He reset it and let it ignite and told me to stand back. Flame came out towards us, tripped the sensor then it went off again. He said you have a hole inside the furnace causing air to come up through the part where the flame goes down.

Hopefully it is still under warranty, only 12 years old. If it is then $2-300 in labor and parts. If it's not then he said I'm looking at $1-2k for a replacement.

I ended up going with Naylor Plumbing. I forgot that I had used them for our water system repair last year.

Thanks again everyone for advice.

Heat Exchanger Failure? If so, that is a FANTASTIC price for the work that goes into replacing one. :thumbsup:

Good to find out now before it gets really cold.

Weber · Oct 29, 2013

gamer_jim said:
Repair guy just left. Turns out the flameout sensor had tripped. He reset it and let it ignite and told me to stand back. Flame came out towards us, tripped the sensor then it went off again. He said you have a hole inside the furnace causing air to come up through the part where the flame goes down.

Hopefully it is still under warranty, only 12 years old. If it is then $2-300 in labor and parts. If it's not then he said I'm looking at $1-2k for a replacement.

I ended up going with Naylor Plumbing. I forgot that I had used them for our water system repair last year.

Thanks again everyone for advice.

Get a second opinion.

It's called s rollout switch or aux limit switch, not a flame sensor.

Failures in heat exchangers are verified with high resolution cameras, not symptoms. At that point in time when the flames first light, the blower should not be running, as there is a blower on delay.

Also, the price to replace a heat exchanger is much higher, even when it's under a parts warranty.

Get a second opinion, most reputable companies will offer a free second opinion or other offer.

pbharvey · Oct 29, 2013

Weber said:
Get a second opinion.

It's called s rollout switch or aux limit switch, not a flame sensor.

Failures in heat exchangers are verified with high resolution cameras, not symptoms. At that point in time when the flames first light, the blower should not be running, as there is a blower on delay.

Also, the price to replace a heat exchanger is much higher, even when it's under a parts warranty.

Get a second opinion, most reputable companies will offer a free second opinion or other offer.

What he said.

gamer_jim · Oct 29, 2013

Weber said:
Get a second opinion.

It's called s rollout switch or aux limit switch, not a flame sensor.

Failures in heat exchangers are verified with high resolution cameras, not symptoms. At that point in time when the flames first light, the blower should not be running, as there is a blower on delay.

Also, the price to replace a heat exchanger is much higher, even when it's under a parts warranty.

Get a second opinion, most reputable companies will offer a free second opinion or other offer.

He said there was no replacement of the heater exchange, just the whole unit.

He said the cause is me not maintaining it properly.

He did not verify with a camera.

And yes, it lit then the blower came on then the flame shot out towards us.

He was here 10 minutes and charged me $75--I am choose the wrong career.

The 2-300 to fix is if the whole unit is still under warranty. I'll get a new one that way. He said 2 hours of labor + 100 or so in parts.

I asked him if the heat exchange can be replaced he said no. Seems kinda wrong to me if the rest of the machine, electronics and all, is in good working order. But again, if it only costs me $300 to get a new furnace I am in.

pbharvey · Oct 29, 2013

Carroll County requires a gas permit to replace a gas furnace. Its $50.00.

I don't know Naylor from Adam but I know what it costs to run an HVAC business and the prices he is giving you are too good to be true. Either you are going to get a surprise at the end with a bill for extra work or you are going to get a substandard installation.

Les Gawlik · Oct 29, 2013

I just went through this with a NG furnace. Symptoms were the same, flame coming out of the front of the unit tripping the rollout switch. The heat exchanger was under warranty, so I got both the primary and secondary at no cost. I helped the tech do the work, and it is a pain in the butt to change the heat exchangers. Everything comes apart. In my case, because of the way the sheet metal was done, we even had to take the AC out. It's a long, tedious job. If you can get it replaced for a couple hundred bucks, you are doing extremely well.

Gas furnace problems

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Podcaster

Active Member

USMC

Active Member

Member

Ultimate Member

Having Fun Yet?

Ultimate Member

USMC

Ultimate Member

Podcaster

Habitual Testifier

Banned

Podcaster

Having Fun Yet?

USMC

Habitual Testifier

Podcaster

Habitual Testifier

Ultimate Member

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics