QUOTE=woodyplacks;4816483]Greetings, I have a problem, and I`m not sure where to post it. I just bought a used Voere Shikar 30 06 rifle, I believe made in 1969. It had some gunk on the back section of the receiver, on top, where it has a matt black finish, so, I used a copper brush, and clp to clean it, only to find, that the bluing came off also!. I didn`t think a copper brush would bother bluing, but it does! The top will not be covered completely by the scope base, and was flat black. The matt texture is still there, just not the black color. Cold blues- I don`t know?? I have some Mk lee rust blue solution, but I`m afraid it would damage the highly polished bluing on the sides, and not just repair the top. What would you do, to repair the finish? Thanks for all replies........Art.[/QUOTE]
How to restore bluing
- Thread starter dontpanic
- Start date
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Biggfoot44
Ultimate Member
- Aug 2, 2009
- 33,108
Short answer - Cold Blue
Detailed - The cold blues from Brownells are superior to the typical consumer cold blues . Their Oxphyo-Blue is slightly more durable than their T-4 blue. But the T-4 is easier to get visually good results, and gives more even coloration.
For what I usually use for, I prefer the T-4 .
Detailed - The cold blues from Brownells are superior to the typical consumer cold blues . Their Oxphyo-Blue is slightly more durable than their T-4 blue. But the T-4 is easier to get visually good results, and gives more even coloration.
For what I usually use for, I prefer the T-4 .
Doesn't look like a 30-06 to me.
Hit and Run
Ultimate Member
- Oct 8, 2007
- 19,012
Birchwood Casey super blue.
I'm pretty sure you are right, that first pic I posted looks to be a much smaller caliber, and more of a target rifle. I took another quick look, I believe this is the one the OP is discussing, albeit in much better shape, and it's clearly a hunting rifle:
Vore Shikar German Bolt Action 30/06
Description:
Vore Shikar German Bolt Action 30/06 - 24" Barrel - Tang Safety - Skip Cut Checkered Monte Carlo Walnut Stock With Rosewood Grip Caps - 3 X 9 Scope
Condition: Excellent
Vore Shikar German Bolt Action 30/06
Description:
Vore Shikar German Bolt Action 30/06 - 24" Barrel - Tang Safety - Skip Cut Checkered Monte Carlo Walnut Stock With Rosewood Grip Caps - 3 X 9 Scope
Condition: Excellent
llkoolkeg
Hairy Flaccid Member
I have never tried re-blueing anything. Does it work better on scratches, where there is a "channel" to keep it from running over adjacent unaffected areas or is it best used on smooth hand or holster rub, where it could be applied lightly with a q-tip, almost like sponging paint onto a wall?
Hit and Run
Ultimate Member
So, start by cleaning and degreasing area then and lightly polish out scratches and brightening up area with steel wool or abrasive cloth for touch up, don't over do it. If using cold blueing on small area, apply with soaked cue tip or swab for larger area. You don't have to let it stand long, only a minute or two and then rinse off area with cold water. Polish area with steal wool and repeat until you get color match you are looking for. Area will get darker every application. Blueing is a controlled rusting process with salts to color the metal. Don't think of blueing as painting an area. Hope that helps.
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Oxpho Blue cream is easiest to control. Use a q-tip like Hit and Run suggested.
I use it all the time to do screw heads and small spots. You can blend it in. It also works better if you warm the metal. Not hot, just warm to the touch.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/paste-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue-creme-prod1108.aspx
I use it all the time to do screw heads and small spots. You can blend it in. It also works better if you warm the metal. Not hot, just warm to the touch.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/paste-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue-creme-prod1108.aspx
Biggfoot44
Ultimate Member
- Aug 2, 2009
- 33,108
Not that Oxphyo-Blue is terrible in that regards, but I have done side by side comparisons on the same guns . T-4 is easier to get a decent looking repair, and easier to get consistant color over a larger area job.
Please try this first
Generally, a light brushing with a brass brush should not remove traditional bluing. Before trying anything else, rub some firearms copper remover on the area and let it set for about 10 minutes. Rub area with a clean cloth. You might find that your bluing is still intact. If not , proceed with the Brownells products mentioned earlier.
Good luck!
[/QUOTE]
Generally, a light brushing with a brass brush should not remove traditional bluing. Before trying anything else, rub some firearms copper remover on the area and let it set for about 10 minutes. Rub area with a clean cloth. You might find that your bluing is still intact. If not , proceed with the Brownells products mentioned earlier.
Good luck!
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