Newbie looking for a BP revolver. Questions

Sirex · May 2, 2020

So, I am looking to get into BP, and want a revolver. I have been Googling the crap out of things, but my brain has turned to mush and stuff is blurring together. I am looking for a revolver. I have been looking at 1848 Dragoons (big suckas), 1851, 1858, and 1860 revolvers.
1. Which model is best for a beginner?

2. I have seen brass, steel, and nickel frames? For BP, is there much difference in durability between the 3? I understand steel frames are recommended if planning to do a cylinder conversion. I may, or may not in the future, not sure, but the option is nice.

3. Brand differences. What is better, or not good? The brands I have seen are Traditions/Pietta, Uberti, some higher end Colt BP guns, and a company if I recall called Whitteny. Any that are better, or to stay away from?

4. Can you ONLY shoot round balls out of these, or can you shoot molder conical lead bullets? I am mainly looking for a .44 caliber revolver. Also considering buying BP pellets as well as just powder.

Thanks for any insight, suggestions, or tips. Have a good evening.

rseymorejr · May 2, 2020

There's a starter kit BP pistol in the classifieds right now

https://www.mdshooters.com/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=39480

Sirex · May 2, 2020

rseymorejr said:
There's a starter kit BP pistol in the classifieds right now

https://www.mdshooters.com/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=39480

I saw that, and was considering it, but wanted to do some research. I have been looking at BP revolvers online, and falling in lust with many different ones.

WeaponsCollector · May 2, 2020

Ruger Old Army is a great one. Although it's not a replica of a historic revolver it's a great gun and you can even find .45ACP conversion cylinders for them. The 1858 Remington is also a great one.
I heard brass frames can wear out if you shoot them a lot or use a conversion cylinder, but it shouldn't matter too much if you don't shoot often. I've had a little trouble trying to load conical bullets but never had any trouble with round balls.
Have a stainless 1858 Remington, it's so easy to clean and doesn't rust or corrode.

Muleskinner · May 2, 2020

If you get a steel frame they make cartridge conversion cylinders for some of them if you ever decide you want to shoot centerfire ammo through it.

John from MD · May 2, 2020

A good starter gun is a Pietta 1860 Colt or 1858 Remington. Cabelas and Midway both have sales on these as well as shooting kits.

Mark75H · May 2, 2020

Yes, you generally can shoot conicals

Ranchero50 · May 2, 2020

Warning, addictive....

I have acquired a flock of them the past year. To me the 1851 Navy in 7" barrel is the most balanced as far as ergonomic and easiest to load. The 5" barrel is more ergonomic but a bear to load with the short lever and it isn't as accurate. The .44 round balls load easy with plugs to avoid the grease. I have one in .36 caliber and love to shoot it too. The 1858 and 1860 army are just too dang heavy for what they are. Accurate but heavy...

I've added a 1860 army since this pic was taken...

Personally I'd rather shoot my 1853 Enfield though...

K31 · May 3, 2020

Sirex said:
So, I am looking to get into BP, and want a revolver. I have been Googling the crap out of things, but my brain has turned to mush and stuff is blurring together. I am looking for a revolver. I have been looking at 1848 Dragoons (big suckas), 1851, 1858, and 1860 revolvers.
1. Which model is best for a beginner?

There's not any learning curve with any as far as shooting them is concerned. Top strap revolvers are a bit easier to break down to clean IMHO.

2. I have seen brass, steel, and nickel frames? For BP, is there much difference in durability between the 3? I understand steel frames are recommended if planning to do a cylinder conversion. I may, or may not in the future, not sure, but the option is nice.

Common knowledge is that brass works loose over time but one deceased member here claimed that they never saw one that worked loose.

Stainless steel, although not authentic is forgiving and burnt black powder is very hydroscopic and causes rust. Pyrodex will also to a lesser extent but Pyrodex 777 is not any more than smokeless. Stainless will let you get away with not immediately cleaning it after a day at the range therefore.

3. Brand differences. What is better, or not good? The brands I have seen are Traditions/Pietta, Uberti, some higher end Colt BP guns, and a company if I recall called Whitteny. Any that are better, or to stay away from?

Another vote for Ruger Old Army. They come in blued steel or stainless steel.

4. Can you ONLY shoot round balls out of these, or can you shoot molder conical lead bullets? I am mainly looking for a .44 caliber revolver. Also considering buying BP pellets as well as just powder.

You can shoot conicals. They may take up more chamber space which is usually only a factor if you want to go hunting and are trying to cram in 40 grains.

There is no true BP pellets as far as I am aware. BP usage is governed by the "corned" size, F for cannon, FF or FFF for rifles, FFF for pistols, FFFF for the pans of flintlocks. There are Pyrodex pellets but only 30 grain.

Sirex · May 3, 2020

K31 said:
There's not any learning curve with any as far as shooting them is concerned. Top strap revolvers are a bit easier to break down to clean IMHO.

Common knowledge is that brass works loose over time but one deceased member here claimed that they never saw one that worked loose.

Stainless steel, although not authentic is forgiving and burnt black powder is very hydroscopic and causes rust. Pyrodex will also to a lesser extent but Pyrodex 777 is not any more than smokeless. Stainless will let you get away with not immediately cleaning it after a day at the range therefore.

Another vote for Ruger Old Army. They come in blued steel or stainless steel.

You can shoot conicals. They may take up more chamber space which is usually only a factor if you want to go hunting and are trying to cram in 40 grains.

There is no true BP pellets as far as I am aware. BP usage is governed by the "corned" size, F for cannon, FF or FFF for rifles, FFF for pistols, FFFF for the pans of flintlocks. There are Pyrodex pellets but only 30 grain.

Thanks!

Brickman301 · May 3, 2020

Here’s my take.
Get a steel frame. The brass ones are said to get brittle, and stretch. I’ve never seen it, but that’s what they say. Also your not supposed to use a conversion cylinder in a brass frame, although I don’t see a problem in do so.

If your not going for a historical design, then the Ruger is probably the best, but it’s expensive.

I’ve had every model you listed, and the “colt copies” point better, but that’s about it. I like the solid frame types. The “colts” typically shoot high, out of the box. They also in my experience aren’t as accurate, because of the way you have to take them down to clean them. That wedge has to go back in the same way, depth, to keep your point of aim consistent. Also, that wedge wears, and that also shifts the point of aim. Solid frames, have none of these issues. Solid frames, are also easier to use conversion cylinders on as well, as you don’t have to take the entire pistol down.

Brands: both Peittia and Uberti are good. Slight edge goes to Uberti. I believe the ones made by colt, are actually made by Uberti, with better fit and finish.

Conical bullets are fine to use in all of them. Conical bullets, use less powder, which result in lower velocity.
Hope this helps.

k3usr · May 3, 2020

If you decide to try conical bullets down the road check out Eras Gone Bullet Molds.

mgbill · May 3, 2020

PM sent

BeoBill · May 3, 2020

My vote goes to the 1858 Remington steel frame in .44 cal. Though a bit heavy it shoots well, will last a lifetime and can use a drop-in .45 conversion cylinder with no problems. For good quality at a reasonable cost, I recommend either Pietta/Traditions or Uberti.

Powder or pellets? Use either. There's no perceptible difference in shooting either IMO.

The biggest benefits with pellets over powder:
- No mess due to spillage at loading.
- No guessing as to "How much did I put in?"
- No need to buy additional equipment.

I would also recommend buying a "capper" to save you time and fumbling/expletives when loading. What type is best is a whole other discussion/religious war...

John from MD · May 3, 2020

The only capper I found to work with UNMODIFIED 1858 revolvers is the one made by Polish Cappers. It costs $50 but is well made and protects your caps well.
https://www.facebook.com/polishcappers/

Boats · May 3, 2020

get thee to a Ruger old army. extremely well made and over built.

Do NOT use smokeless powder in it, just don't. (no matter what you have heard)

Usually, the most accurate load is not the most powerful

However, the Old Army will shoot a 32gr FFFg load all day and not have an issue.

recoil wise, it feels like a .357 mag (but different)

snake-eye · May 3, 2020

Another vote for Ruger old army. Built like a Russian tank. They come with adjustable sights or fixed sights ( much more expensive but realistic). A conversion cylinder is available in 45 Colt not ACP.

SWO Daddy · May 3, 2020

K31 said:
Another vote for Ruger Old Army. They come in blued steel or stainless steel.

They've been discontinued for years I thought? Just checked the Ruger website and there's no mention.

John from MD · May 3, 2020

They have been discontinued for years. They aren't worth the prices they are selling for today.

Blacksmith101 · May 3, 2020

Ruger Old Army in Stainless is the top of the BP revolver evolution at this point. And Lee designed a special round ball and conical mold for that specific gun. The story of that mold is related in "Modern Reloading" 2nd Addition by Richard Lee (I'll see if I can find the ref).

The Lee 456-220-1R mold was designed by Richard Lee for the Ruger Old Army that Bill Ruger sent him to try out.

Newbie looking for a BP revolver. Questions

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