Browning Auto 5

Hickok45 has a new Auto 5 video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHMaIavi6y4

Been thinking about getting one of these for some time, maybe older C&R? The 20 ga guns seem to be much more money. How is the recoil on the guns? It looks like it is not insignificant. Owners please let me know if it is a good shooter. Thinking about getting one to shoot clays with. Thanks!

They are great shotguns, they shoot soft if the friction rings are set correctly and they will beat the snot out of you if set up wrong. Every used one I have bought has been set up wrong.

I have never had a issue with recoil in mine. I have a 1975 Light Twelve. It's sister, however, a Remington Model 11, had the friction rings set up wrong and beat the hell out of me.

Any advice on how to set up the rings?

54rndball said:

Any advice on how to set up the rings?

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Here is a link to the manual:

http://www.browning.com/content/dam/browning/support/owners-manuals/auto5-light-om-s.pdf

I have a Belgium made 16 gauge and also had a Miroku made Sweet Sixteen until I traded it for a pre 64 Model 70 Featherweight in 30-06 at the last Timonium show. They are nice shooting guns, that don't have much kick, if set up correctly.

Here is a good article on the Remington Model 11, which is a copy of the A5.

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Gun Articles/remington_model_11.html

Bob's Gun Shop has lots of parts, including the friction rings.

http://www.gun-parts.com/browning/

Here is a link to a discussion on A5 friction ring setting,

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=70794

Since the recoil system works on friction you also do not want to use a lot of lube on the mag tube, I just spread 2 drops of Miltech and thats it.

Remington and Savage also made licensed copies of the A5 which are much easier on the wallet. The former made the "Sportsman" which is a 3 shot version and also the Model 11 which is a full 5 shot version. The latter made the 720 in several iterations which is a 5-shot copy. Now, both Remington and Savage aren't interchangeable parts-wise with the FN/Browning labeled versions nor with each other respectively, but are for all intents and purpose are copies which they paid a licensing fee to make. The major difference is that the Auto 5 has a magazine cutoff while the Remington and Savage do not. I have a 720 personally, and It's a hoot! Recoil isn't bad at all. I concur that those who say it's a shoulder-bruiser have their friction ring setup out of whack.

One thing to remember though is that there's a LOT more reciprocating mass to these than a typical gas or inertial auto-loader.


the first time you shoot it is really odd-feeling, but you get used to it quickly.

I've shot clays with mine, but it's a full choke, so it's a bit more challenging. Still fun though.

Having both the Remington Model 11 and Browning A5, I am definitely a fan of how they shoot.

Two quick thoughts:

1) If you're shooting clays, don't get the magnum version. Even with the rings set for light loads it won't necessarily cycle target loads. Results seem mixed on this, YMMV and all that.

2) Replacement barrels are expensive, and only the newer models have interchangeable chokes, so get the barrel length and choke you want from the get-go. There seem to be ten 30" full choke barrels for every 26" skeet, so it may take some time to find exactly what you're looking for. But they made a few million of them, so just be patient and eventually one will pop up.

Stephen M said:

Two quick thoughts:

2) Replacement barrels are expensive, and only the newer models have interchangeable chokes, so get the barrel length and choke you want from the get-go. There seem to be ten 30" full choke barrels for every 26" skeet, so it may take some time to find exactly what you're looking for. But they made a few million of them, so just be patient and eventually one will pop up.

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This is (interestingly enough) the same issue that you find with most American made SxS shotguns from the early 1900s. From what I understand, the pressure of market hunting had decimated the upland and pigeon populations to such a degree that bird hunters basically really didn't have many options outside of ducks and geese where 30" and a full choke can be the difference between a miserable day in the cold and wet, or dinner on the table.

tallen702 said:

One thing to remember though is that there's a LOT more reciprocating mass to these than a typical gas or inertial auto-loader.

the first time you shoot it is really odd-feeling, but you get used to it quickly.

I've shot clays with mine, but it's a full choke, so it's a bit more challenging. Still fun though.

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I didn't realize they operated like that, great info!

rmaybach said:

I didn't realize they operated like that, great info!

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I have always loved the way the Auto 5 works. A lot going on. The genius of John Browning amazes me.

My wife and I exchanged wedding gifts just after our engagement. Her gift to me was a Browning Auto 5 shotgun which I have and hunt with to this day. We joke that we had a shotgun wedding.

^^^ Way cool...cudos

I think that the Auto 5/Model 11 is the best shotgun ever. I have owned four

1. I ended up 1927 Model 11 from my grandfather and father. My grandfather traded an outboard boat motor for the gun back in the late 1940's (he would trade random things for guns and guns for random things - he went through several other pump shotguns until he got this one). He hunted deer, turkey, crow, and pheasant with it for over 40 years. He used it in summer heat and in Western NY/Northern PA snow, but he took care of it to the point it still has over 50% of its bluing today (he never let it slam closed on an empty chamber and he sparingly oiled the action regularly, as well as normal cleaning). He also used to shoot in turkey shoots and amateur competitions with it, doing fairly well. I could not guess how many shells have been through it, but I would say that 25,000 is probably a very low number. The only thing that has ever been done to it is a tiny bit of wood glue inside of the forearm crack that developed when he improperly tightened the barrel nut after the first time he took it apart. After my grandfather passed away, my dad used it to hunt deer and turkey for quite a few years before he moved on to a Browning BPS and an O/U shotgun...the Model 11 then came to me. I'm never getting rid of it.

2. A 1956 Auto 5 Light Twelve with a Polychoke. I love to shoot clays with it. It was well worn when I got it and I have probably shot 5,000 shells through it, mostly target and low brass game loads. I wouldn't trade it for anything, except for a Sweet Sixteen (with some cash on my end).

3. I had a Japanese Magnum 12 I used exactly one turkey season, but I ended up selling it because I don't really shoot 3" shells very often, but very nice gun.

4. I picked up a beater Model 11 that had an action problem. I originally bought it in case I would need parts for my grandfather's Model 11. The barrel and reciever was pitted on the exterior, but the barrel was nice and shiny inside. The forearm was in nice shape, even if the stock had been damaged on the pistol grip some. The action was also gunked up and upon taking it apart, I discovered the carrier spring had broken. An order to Sarco and a week later, it was back up and running. It looks pretty bad, but it functions flawlessly.

I can't say enough nice things about the Auto 5/Model 11. They are all billet steel and wood, hand made with a craftsman's hand. No CNC, no stampings, no injection molded nonsense. I would bet that if somebody made one to this quality today, it would be at least $2,000, probably much higher.

All this being said, I always am on the lookout for an Auto 5/Model 11 for sale, especially beaters. I don't know why, I guess I like working on them (I even bought screwdrivers that fit the thin slots).

Stephen M said:

Two quick thoughts:

1) If you're shooting clays, don't get the magnum version. Even with the rings set for light loads it won't necessarily cycle target loads. Results seem mixed on this, YMMV and all that.

2) Replacement barrels are expensive, and only the newer models have interchangeable chokes, so get the barrel length and choke you want from the get-go. There seem to be ten 30" full choke barrels for every 26" skeet, so it may take some time to find exactly what you're looking for. But they made a few million of them, so just be patient and eventually one will pop up.

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I have a magnum 12 and I bought the recoil spring and friction ring for the light 12. You can switch them out and just replace the spring/ring combo for what you want to shoot. For geese I shoot no 2s or BB 3" hevi shot with the magnum spring and one ring with no lube on the magazine tube.

There are several setups you can try to get the load you want to use to cycle. Cold weather has an impact also. There are 4 conditions with the magnum, with or without lube on the tube and 1 or 2 rings.

As long as you realize that you can switch spring/ring combos you can get a magnum to cycle any load.

Side note, the Japanese guns have stronger barrels than the Belgian guns so steel shot can be an issue with the older Belgian A5s. The Japanese guns all have removable chokes which I prefer to a fixed choke. A lot of Belgian guns are fixed. Someone had a model 11 for sale on here a little while ago (OP) maybe you could buy that one?

54rndball said:

Hickok45 has a new Auto 5 video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHMaIavi6y4

Been thinking about getting one of these for some time, maybe older C&R? The 20 ga guns seem to be much more money. How is the recoil on the guns? It looks like it is not insignificant. Owners please let me know if it is a good shooter. Thinking about getting one to shoot clays with. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Twenty gauge guns are much more money. They are significantly rarer, but not tremendously rare. A nice one can often be found for under $1k, but many are being offered for much more than that, especially Belgian guns. However, I have seen Remington Model 11s in 20 gauge for under $500 within the last couple of years.

Recoil is quite pleasant. They are heavy guns, even the "Light" variants. They weigh more than your average 870 or Mossberg 500. Also, I find that the squared-off "humpback" makes for faster targeting of moving objects (clays, birds). It's quite an ergonomic tool for being a design from around 1899-1900.

I don't think you could find a more durable semi-auto. The longevity of these guns is pretty much unsurpassed, especially for a semi auto of "complex" design (I think it's a fairly simple design, but that's me).

chooks9 said:

I think that the Auto 5/Model 11 is the best shotgun ever.

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I'd concur if it weren't for the Remington 878. It's the only semi-auto I like better than my Savage 720.