Wet sandpaper

Mark75H · Feb 4, 2017

Wet sandpaper & oil ??

Is it my imagination or is wet sandpaper more aggressive when wetted with oil instead of water?

If you haven't used both, kindly do not respond. :mad54:

Caeb75 · Feb 4, 2017

Not more agressive. Stays agressive longer. The water or oil keeps the spaces between the grit from becoming clogged as fast and lubricates and cools the grit to keep it sharper longer.

Mark75H · Feb 4, 2017

Caeb75 said:
Not more agressive. Stays agressive longer. The water or oil keeps the spaces between the grit from becoming clogged as fast and lubricates and cools the grit to keep it sharper longer.

My question is oil vs water. I know how it works, but it seems to be instantly more aggressive with oil. As if I am using coarser grit paper when wetted with oil, not that it stays sharper longer. With oil I have to go way up in grit fine-ness when going for a polished finish vs using water.

Doco Overboard · Feb 4, 2017

Try it with honing oil like the type that is used for knife sharpening ( make sure its not water based like smith's, I like Buck brand) The only thing i can figure is that the increased lubricity with oil allows for a deeper cut using all of the abrasive vs just the top for faster cutting action. I also find that the paper lasts longer so I save the bits and scraps in a can to be reused for different things.

Mark75H · Feb 4, 2017

Deeper cut, that would explain it.

StickShaker · Feb 5, 2017

I have a lot of experience using both and I think Doco nailed it. Water molecules are denser and have more surface tension than oil (increased lubricity in this case?) and causes the paper to glide over the surface rather than letting the paper dig in like when using oil.

outrider58 · Feb 5, 2017

My personal belief is, oil suspends the removed particles because it is viscose and does not evaporate like water does due to the friction involved. Ergo, emery paper, when used with water, clogs up much faster than emery paper lubricated with oil.

GoGoGadget · Feb 5, 2017

I've noticed the same thing. It's easy to over sand with oil.

I keep a spray bottle of water and a little dish soap. Seems to work well while allowing more control.

Sundazes · Feb 5, 2017

Just curious, what are you using this on? I mean what material? I have never heard of using oil on sandpaper. I am not a machinist.

StickShaker · Feb 5, 2017

GoGoGadget said:
I've noticed the same thing. It's easy to over sand with oil.

I keep a spray bottle of water and a little dish soap. Seems to work well while allowing more control.

The soap is a good mention as it reduces the water's surface tension and gives the paper more bite. Like putting soap in the pond makes a duck sink. :innocent0

Doco Overboard · Feb 5, 2017

Low carbon 1020,1025 and 1030 steels ( like common rebar in spring, mauser Krag actions)that have been surfaced hardened about .002 to .005 deep. 8620 molybdenum gun barrel steels. One thing I forgot to mention was water works good with aluminum and magnesium. Somebody also mentioned soap which is also an important vehicle for the same.

teratos · Feb 5, 2017

outrider58 said:
My personal belief is, oil suspends the removed particles because it is viscose and does not evaporate like water does due to the friction involved. Ergo, emery paper, when used with water, clogs up much faster than emery paper lubricated with oil.

This. Oil lets the removed particles get out of the way much better than water.

Doco Overboard · Feb 5, 2017

The other thing is water expands the wet paper backing moving the grit farther apart vs oil which thins it out so the grit is taller if you will and more bunched up. Backed up on a steel block it will cut like crazy.This is like a 600 grit finish and you can just start to see the grain structure come out. 800 with oil and then flitz would make it shine like the sun. This knob has seen some use and was done about 10 yrs. ago.

Mark75H · Feb 5, 2017

Thanks to those who responded and confirmed my observation is correct and not imaginary.

So, when working from rough finish to polish, start with oil and coarse paper (lower number) and work toward polish with water and finer paper (higher number), then compound red then white for the bright smooth shine.

StickShaker · Feb 5, 2017

Mark75H said:
Thanks to those who responded and confirmed my observation is correct and not imaginary.

So, when working from rough finish to polish, start with oil and coarse paper (lower number) and work toward polish with water and finer paper (higher number), then compound red then white for the bright smooth shine.

I'm not sure what you are working on but I use oil or water but never both, depending on what material I'm sanding/polishing.

The metal buffing compounds I work with, white is medium fine and red rouge is the finest.

Mark75H · Feb 5, 2017

I wouldn't use both at the same time, I'd be cleaning between steps.

Was thinking about paste (polishing vs rubbing compounds) instead of sticks on color.

On the sticks, where is black in the scheme of grit/coarseness? Is the black polishing stick I have just a one off from some freak supplier?

I'm trying to get this all sorted out in my head.

StickShaker · Feb 5, 2017

Mark75H said:
I wouldn't use both at the same time, I'd be cleaning between steps.

I didn't think that you would be mixing without cleaning. I meant for me, metal is usually oil and water is for other things where oil would be bad. But I have a big selection of grits and even a can of used pieces which come in very handy.

Was thinking about paste (polishing vs rubbing compounds) instead of sticks on color.

On the sticks, where is black in the scheme of grit/coarseness? Is the black polishing stick I have just a one off from some freak supplier?

Hmmm...not familiar with black. My coarsest is a brownish color. May have seen black once for stainless??

I'm trying to get this all sorted out in my head.

...

StickShaker · Feb 5, 2017

I lied...I do have black and it's marked for stainless steel. Made by Dico.

Bolts Rock · Feb 9, 2017

I use Micromesh and water these days. Cuts fast and once you get to 8000 and 12000 grit let it go a little dry at the end of the cycle you'll get a mirror finish on most steels. I'll see if I can find the little chunk of wootz it took under 10 minutes to take from hammer forged surface to mirror bright.

Wet sandpaper

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