Help: Revolver won't advance

vette97 · Mar 16, 2009

I have a S&W model 28. Every once in a while, when I've been shooting it, the cylinder won't advance when pulling the hammer back. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. I opened the cylinder and the extractor star ratchet appears to have burrs on each of the knobs. It may be that it's just getting worn and needs to be replaced. Has anyone run into this problem before?

wilcam47 · Mar 16, 2009

Pics?

vette97 · Mar 16, 2009

I knew I left something out...

Different angle:

Topher · Mar 16, 2009

Metal burs do not sound good.
I have had a problme with my .357 not advancing but it was ammo related. I have to have the primer completely seated or the cylinder will not advance.

vette97 · Mar 16, 2009

Topher said:
Metal burs do not sound good.
I have had a problme with my .357 not advancing but it was ammo related. I have to have the primer completely seated or the cylinder will not advance.

I get the same problem with 3 different brands of ammo, both .38 special and .357 magnum. All commercial loads. Sometimes mine will not advance with no ammo in it, if I'm just pulling the hammer back but it's rare.

smokering · Mar 16, 2009

Does the hammer bind when trying to pull back, or the hammer comes back with ease and the cylinder just slips or doesn't move?

BeltBuckle · Mar 16, 2009

I had something similar happen to me years ago with factory ammo on a .357 wheel gun (Hammerli). Turned out what was going on was that the primers were blowing out backwards, towards the pin, and debris from the primer, still attached to the empty casing, was obstructing the cylinder's advance. This happened with several different makes of factory ammo. Before I had a chance to resolve/fix the problem the gun was lost to a burglary (as opposed to a boating accident...) but that might give you a clue to look at...

vette97 · Mar 16, 2009

smokering said:
Does the hammer bind when trying to pull back, or the hammer comes back with ease and the cylinder just slips or doesn't move?

The hammer binds. I can only pull it a few millimeters and it won't go any farther unless I advance the cylinder with my other hand. Then, it goes just fine. I can shoot off 6 bullets with no problem using this method if it binds. But, sometimes, it doesn't bind. I clean my guns immediately after shooting, also.

Thanks Beltbuckle. I did look at my ammo and also for any extra pieces of metal when this happened but so far, nothing. It even happens with no ammo in it.

wyomingboy · Mar 16, 2009

It's out of timing. It needs to go see a S&W doctor. Not a big deal. Couple of small parts and a couple of whacks with a mallet.

smokering · Mar 16, 2009

How long have you owned the S&W 29, did you buy it NIB? How many rounds through it? I am having a similar problem w/ my Ruger minus the visible spurs and it only has about 100 rounds through it. I have suspicions on what it may be and I'm taking mine to GC to have Dan look at it. If he can confirm and fix, that will be cool...if not I'll have it sent to Ruger to look at. I'd suggest having a gunsmith check it out and if no luck contact S&W.

JSW · Mar 16, 2009

smiths and burrs do not play well together-- dress the parts or have them done by pro. check fired cases for impact points on primers helps point out timeing issues. If you do the dressing don't forget to do the internal parts--hammer/trigger.

mdsuave13 · Mar 16, 2009

take the gun, go get yourself a gallon of kerosene and submerge the gun under the kerosene in a plastic bin or a cook pot, dry fire it in the kerosene (until it works perfectly, probably around 20-50times at least) and it should be good to go after. You will also want to move the extractor rod and spin the cylinder as well to work the kerosene into all the nooks and crannies of the gun... It sounds like it could be gunked up inside the trigger and hammer mechanisms, i recently had the exact problem and after the kerosene bath, it was good as new (ps, you will want to take your grips off if they are wood)

after the bath, use some air in a can or an aircompressor with a blowgun nozzle to blast the grime and kerosene out of it. Then liberally use an oil to protect the finish and moving parts.

should be 100% afterwards...

soot and residue will do this from time to time...

Pictaker · Mar 17, 2009

This an older pinned and recessed gun judging by the cylinder face. If you look closely at the ratchet point at the 9:00 position in the first picture it is showing some unusual wear and burrs. this may be contributing to the problem. this is not uncommon in older S&W N frame revolvers. Send it back to S&W they will repair it and also check the other parts relative to timing and fix them at the same Time.
GREAT REVOLVER !!

GNLaFrance · Mar 17, 2009

Chewed up ratchet teeth means the hand is not engaging them properly. I'd look at it and pull the hammer & hand out for inspection. Possibly debris in the hand slot or even a broken spring.

Etek · Mar 17, 2009

The 'Hand' spring may be worn out. Send it back to S+W and they'll replace worn part(s) and deburr or replace cylinder.
It's binding for sure so clean that puppy first!

vette97 · Mar 17, 2009

This was my first gun bought about 12 years ago, used from another guy who had it for about 5 years. I took it shooting occasionally over the years but no idea how many rounds went through it for sure. It started acting up this past fall.

Thanks EVERYONE for the helpful comments! This really helps me out. Since it is so old and has never been gone over from the inside out, I think sending it to S&W would be simple and save me a lot of further frustration down the road.

INMY01TA · Mar 18, 2009

This happened to my Taurus once. Only a few months old and 57 rounds thru it. Played with it for a few minutes then it worked again.

I attributed it to being, well, a Taurus.

Help: Revolver won't advance

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Day Walker

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Active Member

Day Walker

Ultimate Member

Zombie Survival Expert

Active Member

RIP

Etek

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics