10/22 Point of Impact Change Suppressor

RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 14, 2018

I thought the thread spacer was a thread protector! The suppressor works fine with my S&W MP 22 compact.
The threads are probably .400” so the back cap is locking up to the barrel shoulder.

So what exactly does the thread spacer do?
The spacer fills the gap between the back cap and the barrel shoulder and stops the barrel threads from contacting the ring inside the back cap.

The holes in the baffles are not round, but notched. There is probably a term for that, but does the orientation of the notches matter?
The orientation of the notches doesn’t matter. They call it an elongated slot on the patent. The asymmetric baffle design delays the gas from exiting the suppressor. Here is the patent if you want to read about it - https://patents.google.com/patent/US6575074

RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 14, 2018

Here is the link to the thread specs for all SC products - https://silencerco.com/product-support/#tab-4. The ring I spoke about in the back cap is technically called an o-ring engagement feature and is found on the Spectre, Warlock and Sparrow suppressors.

outrider58 · Jul 14, 2018

DaemonAssassin said:
If you want to use the TD again, even to gauge it, let me know.

I shot the TD at TMGN and It was hitting where I was aiming at 25 yards, with no issues.

I looked at the crap that fell out of the can. It all looked like carbon, not lead. When I finally get a gun for it, I will gauge it, then go from there.

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DaemonAssassin · Jul 14, 2018

outrider58 said:
I looked at the crap that fell out of the can. It all looked like carbon, not lead. When I finally get a gun for it, I will gauge it, then go from there.

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You didn't see any copper shavings?

outrider58 · Jul 14, 2018

DaemonAssassin said:
You didn't see any copper shavings?

None. I should have something to shoot in the next week or so. I'll let you know.

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Bountied · Jul 14, 2018

RetiredArmyGuy said:
I thought the thread spacer was a thread protector! The suppressor works fine with my S&W MP 22 compact.
The threads are probably .400” so the back cap is locking up to the barrel shoulder.

So what exactly does the thread spacer do?
The spacer fills the gap between the back cap and the barrel shoulder and stops the barrel threads from contacting the ring inside the back cap.

The holes in the baffles are not round, but notched. There is probably a term for that, but does the orientation of the notches matter?
The orientation of the notches doesn’t matter. They call it an elongated slot on the patent. The asymmetric baffle design delays the gas from exiting the suppressor. Here is the patent if you want to read about it - https://patents.google.com/patent/US6575074

In the manual it says to align the notches. Are you sure it doesn't matter? I spent a lot of time lining them up. If it doesn't matter reassembly would be a lot easier.

Edit: sorry wrong can. I though you were referring to the Spectre II.

RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 14, 2018

Bountied said:
In the manual it says to align the notches. Are you sure it doesn't matter? I spent a lot of time lining them up. If it doesn't matter reassembly would be a lot easier.

Edit: sorry wrong can. I though you were referring to the Spectre II.

The baffle notches in both the Spectre and Spectre II should have the notches aligned when you stack them together making sure that the marked blast baffle is closest to the back cap. I thought the OP was asking about orientation of the notches when the suppressor is attached to the rifle as in the notches have to be timed to the barrel and be in the 12 o’clock position. Timing of the notches when attaching the suppressor to the barrel is not necessary but alignment of the notches in the assembly process is necessary. Sorry for the confusion.

outrider58 · Jul 14, 2018

I finally had time to delve into my suppressor today(back from vaca) and found my problem. The baffles on this can are crap! Full of metal obstructions. Here are some pics of the worst. I have contacted Radical Firearms and am waiting to hear back from them. :cool:

RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 14, 2018

outrider58 said:
I finally had time to delve into my suppressor today(back from vaca) and found my problem. The baffles on this can are crap! Full of metal obstructions. Here are some pics of the worst. I have contacted Radical Firearms and am waiting to hear back from them.

Hopefully they will fix it for you. Shoot me a PM if they won’t, I may be able to help you ream them out to proper specs on a mill. Since I don’t have my Manufacturing license anymore it would require that you stand next to me while I do it as not to incure a transfer of regulated parts to a non-licensed person.

BTW, what is the inside diameter of that tube? If it’s something standard it may be possible to replace them with stainless steel K-Baffles.

outrider58 · Jul 14, 2018

RetiredArmyGuy said:
Hopefully they will fix it for you. Shoot me a PM if they won’t, I may be able to help you ream them out to proper specs on a mill. Since I don’t have my Manufacturing license anymore it would require that you stand next to me while I do it as not to incure a transfer of regulated parts to a non-licensed person.

BTW, what is the inside diameter of that tube? If it’s something standard it may be possible to replace them with stainless steel K-Baffles.

Thanks for the offer! We'll give them a chance to reply

Inside ID looks to be .811ish but o don't think k- baffles will work. The monocore is the threaded part.

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RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 14, 2018

outrider58 said:
Thanks for the offer! We'll give them a chance to reply

Inside ID looks to be .811ish but o don't think k- baffles will work. The monocore is the threaded part.

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That is one of very few suppressors I haven’t seen the inside of so I didn’t realize it was a monocore.

This is one of the best 22 cal. Suppressors I have used for the price. http://www.lane-products.com/products/scorpion-rimfire.html. They are a small company but they stand by their product.

I currently use a Griffin Armament Checkmate QD for all of my 22s. It’s quiet and user friendly. With the QD Mount it’s easy to move from one host to the next.

sbmike · Jul 14, 2018

I don't know if this muddies the waters or not. I too have a Ruger 10/22 but a different can. I bought a washer that was intended for use on the 10/22 with a suppressor (I forget who makes it) but when I went to the range, I too experienced the wildly low hits after zeroing at 50 yds. without a can.
After thoroughly cleaning the can, which was not at all dirty, I took it back to the range and got the same low hits. I brought a couple of other washers with me to try as well. The first one was a nut which was shorter (I didn't measure by how much) than the recommended one and I got the same result as before. Then I tried a crush washer for an AR-15 flash hider and the POI returned to what it was without the suppressor. I put 100 rounds through it and it was hitting the target consistently and as near the bulls eye as I can manage with my bad eyes.
My uneducated guess is that the other two washers weren't cut to exact enough specifications to keep the suppressor exactly square with the rifle barrel once it was tightened down. The recommended washer had a relief cut on the inside of one side of the washer to cover the small space between the end of the rifle barrel and the beginning of the threads. The nut I tried did not have any relief at all which would kind of explain the two not squaring properly. What I don't understand is that there didn't appear to be any baffle strikes on any of the baffles or the end cap.
Bottom line is, at least for me, the crush washer did the trick. We'll see how it holds up with more shots through it.

BigDaddy · Jul 15, 2018

RetiredArmyGuy;5268692 Best thing to do as you said is to measure the length of the threads and see if you can use the spacer or there are other spacers that are thinner and less expensive than buying the adapter they want you to use.[/QUOTE said:
Edit I guess I don't understand the 1/2 x 28 - 1/2 x 25 Spacer What is the second set of numbers, I thought rimfire threads were 1/2 x 28
The threads don't extend all the way to the barrel shoulder. Am I measuring just the length of the threaded portion or the crown to barrel shoulder? Either way it's longer than .4 and shorter than .6

RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 15, 2018

BigDaddy said:
Edit I guess I don't understand the 1/2 x 28 - 1/2 x 25 Spacer What is the second set of numbers, I thought rimfire threads were 1/2 x 28
The threads don't extend all the way to the barrel shoulder. Am I measuring just the length of the threaded portion or the crown to barrel shoulder? Either way it's longer than .4 and shorter than .6

No worries. I hope it works well for you.

44man · Jul 15, 2018

I am kinda worried now, I have a radical .22 can coming outta jail soon, my first, and a 10/22 host and I really don’t understand the different kind of washers talked about here

Sometimes I feel dumber every day

outrider58 · Jul 16, 2018

44man said:
I am kinda worried now, I have a radical .22 can coming outta jail soon, my first, and a 10/22 host and I really don’t understand the different kind of washers talked about here

Sometimes I feel dumber every day

Is it their RFSS22? I used mine on a 10/22 and needed no washer. It threaded right down to the shoulder. One thing you'll need to do is open the can and inspect the bore of the monocore baffles for any irregularities(see post #28).

44man · Jul 16, 2018

outrider58 said:
Is it their RFSS22? I used mine on a 10/22 and needed no washer. It threaded right down to the shoulder. One thing you'll need to do is open the can and inspect the bore of the monocore baffles for any irregularities(see post #28).

Yep that’s the one I have in jail. Gymratz sold it to me for cheap and he showed me a video of him shooting it to show me how quiet it was and said it shot fine so I am hoping for the best, we will see.

RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 16, 2018

BigDaddy said:
Edit I guess I don't understand the 1/2 x 28 - 1/2 x 25 Spacer What is the second set of numbers, I thought rimfire threads were 1/2 x 28
The threads don't extend all the way to the barrel shoulder. Am I measuring just the length of the threaded portion or the crown to barrel shoulder? Either way it's longer than .4 and shorter than .6

You should measure from the end of the muzzle (crown) back to the shoulder which would include the relief gap in the threads and the shoulder. If it is shorter than .600” SC recommends using their 1/2x28-1/2x28 adapter. The 1/2x28-1/2x25 was an error on their spec sheet and I didn’t realize that when I was typing. The adapter can be seen here https://www.store.silencerco.com/collections/silencer-accessories/products/rimfire-adapters?variant=1107308244

If your threads measure close to .600” (crown to shoulder) you should be able to use the spacer included. That spacer should be around .25”.

Again I apologize for not seeing that error prior. There are some other companies that make thinner spacers which I will try and find some links to later.

outrider58 · Jul 16, 2018

44man said:
Yep that’s the one I have in jail. Gymratz sold it to me for cheap and he showed me a video of him shooting it to show me how quiet it was and said it shot fine so I am hoping for the best, we will see.

They are quite(and cheap).

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RetiredArmyGuy · Jul 16, 2018

44man said:
I am kinda worried now, I have a radical .22 can coming outta jail soon, my first, and a 10/22 host and I really don’t understand the different kind of washers talked about here

Sometimes I feel dumber every day

You should measure your barrels muzzle threads from the crown to the base of the shoulder. Ruger manufactured threads initially in 1/2x28 that were .625” and later changed to .400” in length to align with most rimfire suppressor threads being produced. I am not sure what year the change was made. The 10/22 that I have has .400” length threads. You should reach out to Radical and see what they suggest. Some rimfire suppressors will except either thread length and some like the Spectre will not. If you need a spacer SilencerCo and Gemtech make them. I like the Gentech one better as you can use a wrench to take it off if it gets stuck.

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