Reloading shotgun shells need beginner advise

Straightbolt · Nov 25, 2017

Looking to start reloading 12 ga. shotgun shells but also want to be able to do rifled slugs as well.
Can you give me a shopping list of what I will need to get started.
I can get plenty of already fired high brass shells from my range for reloading.
Any advise would be helpful

LGood48 · Nov 25, 2017

First and foremost...reloading guides/manuals specifically for shotgun. Lyman produces an excellent one.
Never loaded slugs, but did 12; 20 and 28 gauge for years. Found that the MEC 600 Jr worked really well.
On that line, you'd need shot/powder bars for steel and lead along with powder bushings. Never found a universal bar that worked as advertised but you may have better luck. Haven't loaded for shotgun in over 25 years now.
I was very fussy about shells casings and only reloaded Winchester AA. Never worried about high or low brass and loaded for everything from skeet to geese and sand hill crane.
Graf & Sons has an excellent section for MEC and Lee as well as manuals and components. https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/406

Good luck!

Blacksmith101 · Nov 25, 2017

Start with a good shotgun reloading manual or two so you can compare recommendations. The Lyman manual should be the first.

Here is the closest thing to one stop shopping for shotgun reloading:
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/

PapiBarcelona · Nov 25, 2017

Shotshell target loads the Remington recipes using Gun Clubs seem to be the most popular for 12 gauge. You can buy them cheap and find hundreds of them littered all over and in trash cans at Clubs.

It's pretty regular for me to get over a dozen reloads out of a gun club

I very rarely run into someone who actually reloads shotshells when I do the weekend warrior thing at sporting clays clubs all in this region unless it's for like a 28 gauge. 12 gauge shotshell reloading is not cost effective and is just a hobby that probably cost me more than just buying flats.

Outta Air · Nov 25, 2017

Don't forget the rock salt for some of the loads :thumbsup:

Straightbolt · Nov 26, 2017

Thanks for the advise.
Got a feeling it's going to be quite an experience for sure lol

bigjohn · Nov 26, 2017

Ballistics product has everything you will need including a slug loading manual

PMD354 · Nov 26, 2017

I have been loading shotgun shells since the early 80's. High or low brass makes no difference. They both can handle the same pressure. My favorite hulls to reload are Winchester AA's. I have loaded them for everything from trap/skeet to ducks and geese. The Lyman manual is a good source for info. Reloading is not so cost effictive as it used to be. The thing I like the most was the ability to load all my rounds to 1200 FPS. It helps when it comes to leading. I never have to adjust for different speeds. As far as slugs go I would stick with factory loads. Find the one that works for you and your gun and stick with them. Slugs are a PIA to load. You will read about them in the manual.

Redcobra · Nov 26, 2017

I load 12g, 20g, and 28g (f the .410).
I use a MEC 9000 progressive.
Win Primers, Claydot/Red Dot/Green Dot/2028.
Exclusively Rem hulls.
I was fortunate enough to get lessons and advice from a member here (Augie)
Best thing ever. Cut my learning curve in half. Thanks Augie.

What I learned.
NO LEE NO LEE NO LEE
MEC MEC MEC
Lyman manual.
Only use the listed loads for your powder (found on the powder websites)
Pick one hull and stick with it so you don't have to readjust the loader ( a pain) when you change hulls.
Go to LRSTC and Dumpster dive Rem GCs.
Progressive is better than non. If you go cheap on your loader you will have bloopers, shot all over the floor, wasted supplies.
Buy in bulk or it is not worth it for 12g.
Put a tray under your reloader and bolt through the tray to the bench. Get a small vac. YOU WILL SPILL SHOT!
If you have an questions.....Happy to help.

byf43 · Nov 27, 2017

MEC 600 Jr. MK V (or whatever is offered now) is 'the' shotshell loading machine.

I've loaded 12 ga shells since the late '70s on a MEC 600 Jr. (pre MK whatever) machine.
The ONLY thing I've ever replaced on this machine, was the original copper wad guide 'fingers'. A whoppin' $2.00 replacement part.

Not too long ago, I bought a MEC 9000 machine from another guy that works at my company, for $125.00, including a BUNCH of extras along with a drive to/from Middletown, DE.
(I've never loaded one round with that machine.)

Lyman Shotshell Reloading Manual is the "gospel" on shotshell reloading.

I load the OLD Winchester AA cases, Peter's "Blue Magic" hulls, the old black "Mowhawk" hulls, Remington Premiere STS, and Gun Club hulls, all the same.
(I still have a fairly large 'stash' of Peter's "Blue Magic" once-fired hulls.... that are NOT for sale!) They load many times more than AA cases, and keep their crimp a LOT longer!

They are all "compression formed" hulls and use the same Win AA12 wad or "Claybusters" replacement wad, interchangeably.

Red Dot is a fantastic powder.

I am also of the opinion that the "Universal Chargebar" is a POS and a complete waste of money.

usa259 · Nov 28, 2017

Just found my fathers 600 jr Mark v in a box a few months ago, been reading, cleaning and setting it up, and talking with others.

Starting tonight I'm making 12ga 7/8 oz load in 7.5, 8, and 9 with Rem Gun Club Hulls (I have unlimited supply), Claybbusters 7/8 to 1oz wads and Clays at about 18.3 grains. I used Hornady's reloading website. Just orders from Brownells new 302 7/8 lead charge bar and two bushings, #31 and #32. Brownells was the cheapest I could find.

K-43 · Nov 28, 2017

Hornady or Hodgdon's website? I use Hodgdon's website for my Clays data.
Those Remington Gun Clubs, Nitros, STS, and black field hulls all share the same data. I run them all with the same load and no adjustments through my reloader.
My nieces like the pretty gold ones. It's all the same load though.

Cochise · Nov 30, 2017

Been loading shotshells since the late 80's. I load 10 gauge on a MEC Jr and 16 and 12 gauge on MEC Grabbers. When I want to roll crimp I do that on a drill press with either vintage Lyman heads or new ones from Precision Reloading.
I have owned other brands including P/W, Hornady, Pacific, Texan, Lachmiller, Lee, and probably others.
Several good manuals are the first step. Run from anything Lee is the next step. Get a scale, charge bars cant be trusted, verify. Buy all your components in bulk, especially shot powder and primers. Keep an eye out for used machines on the gun club bulletin boards and places like craigslist, components too. Don't trust pre-owned cans of powder, you cant trust it is what it says it is.

Red1917 · Nov 30, 2017

I loaded 12 gauge shotshell for a while, I think all the advice here so far is good. Stick to published loads with shotshells, especially for hull, primers and wad combinations they are NOT interchangeable. Definitely dont trust charge bars, always weigh your charges. Have fun with it its a good learning experience once you settle in on a load you can crank them out. I have lots of gun club hulls I'd be willing to part with if you need them (and you're located close).

usa259 · Dec 5, 2017

K-43 said:
Hornady or Hodgdon's website? I use Hodgdon's website for my Clays data.
Those Remington Gun Clubs, Nitros, STS, and black field hulls all share the same data. I run them all with the same load and no adjustments through my reloader.
My nieces like the pretty gold ones. It's all the same load though.

You are correct, it was the Hodgdon website. Thank you for catching that.

New issue, I used the MEC chart to determine which bushings to buy/ try. I tried the #31 and it delivers 19.6 to 20.2 grains of powder instead of the 17.3 the chart says. On average that is 2.6 grains over the desired. Does that mean I need a #26? Looks like my recent experience with using Clays more closely match up with International Clays; did something change?

Update from Mec:
I'm just of the tele with MEC and they are telling me Clays (American) weights different than Clays (Canadian). I now remember hearing something about this somewhere.... Now need to try bushing #26 - #30

Todd S · Dec 5, 2017

I've been loading slugs for 10 years. I get good results. Usually close to MOA at 100 yards, if I do my job, behind the trigger, correctly. I've been using SPW and roll crimping.

http://slugsrus.com/product94.html

These are the same slugs that were in the Hastings Laser Accurate slugs.

Lightfield also sell slug-wad combos, but they are more expensive. I get very similar results to the SPW's.

https://www.tarhunt.com/product/lightfield-handloadingreloading-supplies-for-commander-plus-2-34%E2%80%B3-12-gauge/

byf43 · Dec 5, 2017

usa259 said:
You are correct, it was the Hodgdon website. Thank you for catching that.

New issue, I used the MEC chart to determine which bushings to buy/ try. I tried the #31 and it delivers 19.6 to 20.2 grains of powder instead of the 17.3 the chart says. On average that is 2.6 grains over the desired. Does that mean I need a #26? Looks like my recent experience with using Clays more closely match up with International Clays; did something change?

Update from Mec:
I'm just of the tele with MEC and they are telling me Clays (American) weights different than Clays (Canadian). I now remember hearing something about this somewhere.... Now need to try bushing #26 - #30

The best advise I can give with regard to the powder bushing is check and double-check the powder bushing 'charge' to a known ACCURATE scale.

Many years ago, a VERY good trap shooter at my club, gave me a box of shotshells that he loaded (he had over 500 rounds with him) to try.

I had been using Winchester AA-452 and AA-473 (both are now extinct!) powder, and was getting hits, but not as consistently as he was.

The load he was using patterned a LOT better.

Alliant (formerly Hercules) Red Dot. 18.0 grains.
1-1/8 oz of shot.
Winchester AA12 (white) wad or Claybuster comparable wad.
CCI primer
Winchester AA hulls (Peter's Blue Magic; Remington STS; Remington Gun Club; and the old black "Mohawk" hulls load exactly the same as the OLD Win AA hulls.)

On my loader, the MEC #30 bushing that's been opened (chamfered) just slightly at the top, dumps 18.0 grains consistently.
On a friend's loader, the #31 bushing throw EXACTLY 18.0 grains.

The morale to the story is, check/double-check your powder bushing to make certain that it throws the correct charge.

Years ago, I bought a bunch of bushings, so that I'd have what I needed, when I needed it/them.
MEC #28; 29; 30; and 32.

They were only about a dollar when I bought them.

K-43 · Dec 12, 2017

usa259 said:
You are correct, it was the Hodgdon website. Thank you for catching that.

New issue, I used the MEC chart to determine which bushings to buy/ try. I tried the #31 and it delivers 19.6 to 20.2 grains of powder instead of the 17.3 the chart says. On average that is 2.6 grains over the desired. Does that mean I need a #26? Looks like my recent experience with using Clays more closely match up with International Clays; did something change?

Update from Mec:
I'm just of the tele with MEC and they are telling me Clays (American) weights different than Clays (Canadian). I now remember hearing something about this somewhere.... Now need to try bushing #26 - #30

byf43 gave you good scoop: Use a scale to get an average and be consistent.
The bushing charts just get you in the neighborhood. There are too many variables for the manufacturers to get it perfect - the lot of powder, humidity, the vibrations you make with your machine, how smooth, how hard etc., etc. You may have to go up or down to get the throw you want. Some people resort to polishing a bushing or using nail polish or tape in the bushings to get exactly what they want. I prefer to just use the closest bushing as 1 or 2 tenths isn't going to make a difference unless you are at the max load and pushing the recommended pressure limit. i.e. My favorite target recipe calls for 17.0 grains of Clays for 1180fps @8200 LUP with my components. My closest bushing throws an average 16.8 for me. No point in messing with the bushing to get that 2 tenths. It won't make me break more clays. If it threw 4 tenths under, I'd get a dowel and sandpaper out to slowly enlarge it though.
I hate to recommend another forum, however, the best shotgun reloading advice is at Shotgun World. Curly is THE MAN if you are using a MEC and need help setting it up or fixing a problem. Just stay out of the arguments :sad20:

Biggfoot44 · Dec 13, 2017

Its fine to mention/ recomend other forums if :

1. Primarily deals with specialized subject matter , in a high value manner that you would recomend to your MDS brothers .
2. Primarily geographically based , other than Md , likewise in an informed manner.

Examples:

Smith-wessonforum ( dot ) com - All things S&W, modern thru advanced collecting. Also advanced discussions on handloading. This is the good one , run by S&W Historical Assn , disregard others with similar names.

Rugerforum ( dot ) com - The misc discussions are kinda MDS WC- lite , but good source for Ruger technical and collecting minuate . Great classifieds, with emphasis on Ruger, and leather gear .

PAFOA - All things Penna related , plus good general discussions .

CastBoolits - Everything bullet casting , and handloading of cast bullets .

usa259 · Dec 13, 2017

Thanks All. Been getting input at PGT&S and was loaned a #28 bushing to try, brought average down to 17.9. Have Two #27 and one #28 on order. One of my target loads was 18.0 grns. When shipment arrives I will have #27 - #33.

Reloading shotgun shells need beginner advise

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