Marlin 60 takedown screws

ComeGet · Jun 24, 2019

I bought a pair of Marlin 60s about six or seven years ago. I was going to break them down to inspect, clean and lube as I do with all my new guns. I found that the takedown screw heads are unworkable. From the pics, it's obvious that the heads were some kind of hex at some time. However, I've tried both my metric and English sets on them and no dice. They're either some exotic size I don't have or were stripped at manufacture.

Other things came up at that time and I didn't fiddle with them any more. Now I've pulled them out again and want to fix the problem.

All I can think to do is to take a file and cut a slot in the heads so I can use a regular screwdriver to back them out and then replace them. The problem with that is that the rear screw is somewhat recessed and I might not be able to cut into it far enough to get a good bite with a screwdriver. I could also try to wedge a larger wrench in there in the hope it would grab enough to start backing them out.

Before I start anything I wanted to see if the MDS brain trust has any ideas.

rseymorejr · Jun 24, 2019

Can you get a clear shot to drill a small hole in the center, enough to get a small EZ OUT in there? Shouldn't take much to unscrew if you can get a bite.

MeatGrinder · Jun 24, 2019

If you are going to destroy the screw anyhow, I've had luck using a reverse drill bit. That said, I'm talking in general, not in specific to your problem.

Hit and Run · Jun 24, 2019

ComeGet said:
I bought a pair of Marlin 60s about six or seven years ago. I was going to break them down to inspect, clean and lube as I do with all my new guns. I found that the takedown screw heads are unworkable. From the pics, it's obvious that the heads were some kind of hex at some time. However, I've tried both my metric and English sets on them and no dice. They're either some exotic size I don't have or were stripped at manufacture.

Other things came up at that time and I didn't fiddle with them any more. Now I've pulled them out again and want to fix the problem.

All I can think to do is to take a file and cut a slot in the heads so I can use a regular screwdriver to back them out and then replace them. The problem with that is that the rear screw is somewhat recessed and I might not be able to cut into it far enough to get a good bite with a screwdriver. I could also try to wedge a larger wrench in there in the hope it would grab enough to start backing them out.

Before I start anything I wanted to see if the MDS brain trust has any ideas.

They look stripped. Would buy replacement screws first. Midway and others sell them for $6 -$7 price range.

Easyout option.

Lock it in padded vice or rifle rest fixture so you can drill down about an 1/8 of an inch, not wider than stripped head and NOT to depth you could effectively cut head off. You will need a set of easyouts, get best fit with easy out and then screw it out. Easyout will bite into existing hole as you turn it to screw out stripped part.

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TomisinMd · Jun 25, 2019

Maybe I'm missing something here. I see the chamfer for the hex (the round section at top), and the walls of each hex look solid and straight? Possibly a coating is stopping the correct size hex for getting in there.
If they are truly stripped, Id do the next size up, metric to english or vice versa, and lightly grind a taper on each flat, then tap it in, should be enough to break free. Drilling and power stuff I'd do as a last resort.
Unless the put nasty Uberti threadlocker in.
+1 on getting replacement screws now.
Good luck!

ComeGet · Jun 25, 2019

Thanks. This is what I was looking for. I did a search on the screws and indeed, Midway came up with the best price and availability. They're on the way.

I'll start with modifying a hex wrench as Tomisinmd suggested. If that does not work, I'll go with an easyout or reverse drill bit. I'll try without drilling first and see if it'll catch. That's because there's not that much metal in the center and I'm concerned about accidentally popping the head off. Also, I think there's enough depth to get in there without drilling.

If that doesn't work, I'll drill gingerly and try again. I'll report back on results.

kalister1 · Jun 25, 2019

If you drill down into the head so far that it breaks/falls off, there ?should be? enough shaft left to grab with Vise rips.

Sirex · Jun 25, 2019

They require a special size hex wrench. Where are you? I may have an extra, or you could borrow mine.

JimB · Jun 25, 2019

It's a 9/64

easy · Jun 25, 2019

For such issues, I've crammed a straight screwdriver into those and they came right out.

ShafTed · Jun 25, 2019

Another possibility is find a Torx bit that is just SLIGHTLY larger and try driving it in with a (small) hammer. That might get enough bite to get them out.

Good luck!

Doco Overboard · Jun 25, 2019

Sometimes you can just use a smaller allen wrench backed up with a small piece of sand cloth. Oil it to get the paper backing wet so it doesn't crumble, fold it over itself, tap to seat the wrench firmly and turn anti clockwise smartly.
Grinding a larger or metric allen wrench will also work. Remember to heat up red hot and let cool slowly so you can more quickly file to fit.

One way to get screws to stay tight without using thread locker is to heat the screw up nice and hot, install immediately and then when the threads shrink, tension/fit is increased. Just make sure the parts being joined are sufficiently constructed for the method and remember you may have to do the same in reverse to remove. This works well on pistols and old stuff that's seen a lot of disassembly.
For tight spots or where breakage is a concern, an electric soldering iron or even one of those old ones that nobody uses anymore ( the flea market junk ones you see all the time and you say to yourself who uses that junk anymore?) will supply enough heat to melt, finger nail polish, rust, and most thread locking agents.

I'm a fan of not buying anything until it's apart and you know exactly what you need. Also making every effort to not destroy whats there until last resort.

Those screws don't really look too awful bad from what I can see, they should come out fairly easy with a little wrangling I think.

Mini14tac · Jun 26, 2019

Did you get them out? I can't imagine the would be very tight. I know on my old model 60 Glenfield they aren't. Mine are the old slotted style for a flat head screwdriver.

ComeGet · Jun 26, 2019

I'm waiting for the new screws to get here before trying anything. They are supposed to be here Monday.

A wealth of information has come in on this, almost too much.

Which to try first?

I will let you know what works.

ComeGet · Jun 29, 2019

Sirex said:
They require a special size hex wrench. Where are you? I may have an extra, or you could borrow mine.

JimB said:
It's a 9/64

This was it.

The screw heads were deceptive because the top edges are rounded and I did not see the internal flat hex sides. This, together with none of my standard wrenches fitting them made me believe they were stripped.

I got the new screws today and, lo and behold, they looked the same as the old ones. So, I figured you guys were right about it being an unusual size. I also did some more research and found a few instances of the same problem with the same solution. D'oh. I went to the local Ace and got a set that included a 9/64 wrench. It did the trick and here's the result.

Thanks, all.

(Oh, and thank you Marlin for using an odd size of hex instead of something standard, or *gasp* a simple slot screw.)

Pale Ryder · Jun 29, 2019

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. My 60 is some decades old, but isn't the only takedown screw the one in the top photo. I believe the bottom photo is the screw that holds the trigger group in place. You probably never need to remove that one.

ComeGet · Jun 29, 2019

Pale Ryder said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. My 60 is some decades old, but isn't the only takedown screw the one in the top photo. I believe the bottom photo is the screw that holds the trigger group in place. You probably never need to remove that one.

On mine, both of these are takedowns. There's a third, slotted screw just in front of the guard for the trigger group.

Marlin 60 takedown screws

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