Blacksmith101
Grumpy Old Man
- Jun 22, 2012
- 22,262
They are kind of like potato chips. I just wish I had caught the fever before they ran out of Springfields, Enfields, carbines, trainers, etc.
So I've decided I want a CMP M1...but...
- Thread starter SWO Daddy
- Start date
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They are kind of like potato chips. I just wish I had caught the fever before they ran out of Springfields, Enfields, carbines, trainers, etc.
Bowieite
Member
It's only a seven hour drive to their store in Port Clinton, OH. That way you can see what you're getting. I'm gonna make a weekend trip with my son out of it and get one soon.
Well here she is... HRA receiver. Looks like a '65 SA rebarrel? Throat and muzzle are 2/2.
Metal work looks perfect as far as I can tell. The new stock looks great. What do folks recommend for the stock - BLO, RLO, tung oil, or...?
I have rubbed in BLO and that seems to work well. Very nice Garand.
Linseed oil will eventually darken. If you want to keep the color of the stock, use pure tung oil. Tung oil was the original stock preservative used on the Garand until the supply of it from China was cut off by the start of WWII. From there on it was linseed oil for all wooden stocks for the US military. Tung oil also crosslinks (i.e. polymerizes) more tightly than linseed oil, so the resulting finish is somewhat more waterproof.
The stuff at the hardware store labelled "tung oil finish" isn't tung oil. Here is one place to get the real deal:
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/
A little goes a long way. Don't buy in excessive quantity because oxygen causes the oil to polymerize, which is also how it provides protection to wood, and the leftovers will film over in the container in two or three years after opening. PTO is also great for refinishing wood furniture.
Here's a more scientific explanation of the differences between linseed oil and tung oil:
http://prorestorers.org/notes/LinseedTungOil.htm
