Break it in dry?

Melnic · Oct 17, 2016

OK,
So, I had a conversation with a guy that I did not previously know and he said, he broke his 2 ARs in dry for 2 hundred rounds to "burnish" the metal and smooth out the contact surfaces. He said it also would show where the contact points are to better lube once he broke it in. He said, yes, expect some problems but just to work though it. He said he works with alot of mechanical moving machines at work. I did not argue to the contrary with him cause I had no idea if this was good or bad but though I'd bring it up with the more experienced to see if there was any validity to the method.

Curious on opinions on this. I might be worried about the bolt sticking or having trouble fully locking while dry.

Augie · Oct 17, 2016

I wouldn't do it, no experience on running AR's dry but I have seen the metal galled on O/U shotguns at the hinge because of no lube.

Kman · Oct 17, 2016

Running it dry intentionally sounds like a bad idea to me.

Metal on metal has always called for oil/lube, to my way of thinking.

Grease is cheap, steel is expensive.

smokey · Oct 17, 2016

when first ramming a cylindrical object into a tight space, lube is always a good idea.

Bluemax · Oct 17, 2016

Would you run a new engine for 200 miles without oil? It is no different.

traveller · Oct 17, 2016

Bluemax said:
Would you run a new engine for 200 miles without oil? It is no different.

In aircraft engines, you do run the first 50 hrs with a 'straight' mineral oil that lacks anti-scuff additives. This is done to allow the rings to wear down the honing marks on the cylinder walls. Using synthetic oil or additive oil reduces this initial wear and can lead to higher long-term oil consumption. I still wouldn"t break in an engine without oil.

lazarus · Oct 17, 2016

traveller said:
In aircraft engines, you do run the first 50 hrs with a 'straight' mineral oil that lacks anti-scuff additives. This is done to allow the rings to wear down the honing marks on the cylinder walls. Using synthetic oil or additive oil reduces this initial wear and can lead to higher long-term oil consumption. I still wouldn"t break in an engine without oil.

Most engines you want to run in with something like light mineral oil for a bit and then change it out to regular duty. You don't want to run with no lubrication. Modern engines typically are machines finely enough you don't need to do this at all, but it is generally a good idea with things like hand built engines. Though I've never heard of 50hrs. Then again I also haven't worked on aircraft engines. Usually it is run with light oil and pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly. Change it out after about 10 minutes of idle with regular oil and run for a few hundred miles and then synthetic oil.

BossmanPJ · Oct 17, 2016

smokey0118 said:
when first ramming a cylindrical object into a tight space, lube is always a good idea.

Good advice.

teratos · Oct 17, 2016

Seems like a bad idea. You can polish surfaces with lube.

travistheone · Oct 17, 2016

i would think it wouldn't make a difference. silly to purposefully not lube your weapon.

clandestine · Oct 17, 2016

I wouldnt advise that. Use something thin if you want to wear it in faster like remoil.

That being said, it wont destroy the gun to run it dry. If the gun locks up, you might not be able to clear it though.

hodgepodge · Oct 17, 2016

High speed metal on metal contact without lubrication doesn't sound like a good idea. Spit on it at least.

Boondock Saint · Oct 17, 2016

If you love it, lube it.

Melnic · Oct 17, 2016

clandestine said:
I wouldnt advise that. Use something thin if you want to wear it in faster like remoil.

That being said, it wont destroy the gun to run it dry. If the gun locks up, you might not be able to clear it though.

This makes sense w/ light oil. It locking up is what I was worried about when listening to him, just what I would need, a stuck live round when the RSO calls cease fire. I think this year alone I witnessed this about half a dozen times w/ an AR. Only once did I look and saw the bolt pretty dry. Offered some spray oil and the guy declined.

Those of you here comparing an AR to an engine, I don't quite think that is a valid analogy.

EKing · Oct 17, 2016

I guess I'll be the jerk who disagrees with everybody here.

This method of "breaking in" is what I've done with all my firearms; AR's, revolvers, shotguns, you name it. Right out of the box I completely disassemble and clean with light cleaning oil then wipe all remaining oil off. The firearm is basically "dry", though there is some residual film.
Off to the range for some shooting then back at home go through the same process; disassemble, clean, wipe off all oil I can get to and put away "dry". After a couple of these sessions, the firearm is kept lightly oiled/greased/lubed on those contact/stress points from then on.
Never had any issues with my guns, they are all smooth and flawless (except for that Sig Mosquito, but that's another story)

We're not talking about some Youtube/gunrag torture test here. Remember the reason well used firearms sometimes have the smoothest actions or triggers is precisely because the metal surfaces have worn together and polished themselves in a way only master gunsmiths can duplicate.

rbird7282 · Oct 17, 2016

It's a fine analogy. An AR bolt will not necessarily be subjected to the stresses of internal combustion engine parts but there is no application that I can think of where it's a good idea to let mechanical metal parts interact with no lubrication whatsoever.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

traveller · Oct 17, 2016

lazarus said:
Most engines you want to run in with something like light mineral oil for a bit and then change it out to regular duty. You don't want to run with no lubrication. Modern engines typically are machines finely enough you don't need to do this at all, but it is generally a good idea with things like hand built engines. Though I've never heard of 50hrs. Then again I also haven't worked on aircraft engines. Usually it is run with light oil and pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly. Change it out after about 10 minutes of idle with regular oil and run for a few hundred miles and then synthetic oil.

Aircraft engines are not 'modern' by any standard. Think 1938 'modern'. I misremembered the time, the manufacturers recommendation is 25hrs with straight mineral oil. Typically you would change it after the first flight to check the sump and the filter for any major chunks of the engine coming apart.

As for whether it is comparable to wearing in a gun: It's metal on metal under high pressure and some heat. Not that different imnho. The main difference is that both surfaces in an AR are typically surface treated in one way or another (anodized or nitrided) and surfaces in an engine are metal on metal.

Boondock Saint said:
If you love it, lube it.

So true. Applies to so many areas of life.

travistheone · Oct 17, 2016

EKing said:
I guess I'll be the jerk who disagrees with everybody here.

This method of "breaking in" is what I've done with all my firearms; AR's, revolvers, shotguns, you name it. Right out of the box I completely disassemble and clean with light cleaning oil then wipe all remaining oil off. The firearm is basically "dry", though there is some residual film.
Off to the range for some shooting then back at home go through the same process; disassemble, clean, wipe off all oil I can get to and put away "dry". After a couple of these sessions, the firearm is kept lightly oiled/greased/lubed on those contact/stress points from then on.
Never had any issues with my guns, they are all smooth and flawless (except for that Sig Mosquito, but that's another story)

We're not talking about some Youtube/gunrag torture test here. Remember the reason well used firearms sometimes have the smoothest actions or triggers is precisely because the metal surfaces have worn together and polished themselves in a way only master gunsmiths can duplicate.

that is lubing it. unless you use a stripper or brake cleaner it is still lubed.

BradMacc82 · Oct 17, 2016

When in doubt, refer to manufacturer recommendations.

I don't recall ever reading a firearm manufacturer suggesting to run their weapon dry, so...

smokey · Oct 17, 2016

Keep in mind that the bolt and upper are not similar metals. If there is a burr or imperfection on the bolt carrier...it's basically just going to gouge the upper. All running it dry does is accelerate wear and increase chances for malfunctions.

Break it in dry?

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