Aussie SMLE No1 MkIII* discovery and refurb

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  • Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    This is intended to be a follow up thread on the steps I'm going through to get my MkIII in shooter condition and restore the stock to a military finish. I've spent my spare time the last couple days doing research on it and hope to share some of what I've found and hopefully learn more about it.

    As found...
    DSC02835.jpg


    Today I fired up the furnace in the shop and took it apart. Other than buggered heads on most of the screws from prior work it came apart nicely. One quick tip if you find yourself fighting a buggered head is to file or use a belt sander to true up the end of the tip on your screw driver. It'll put a sharp corner on the tip that will try to grab vs. round out of the slot.

    DSC02851.jpg


    From what I can tell the wood belongs to the rifle. The fore stock has the S/N stamped. I'm not sure on it's history though. The receiver is a 1941 but the butt stock it stamped with a '43 date. It's also appears to be an arsenal refinish circa 6/45. Most of the metal is parkerized and shows rust pitting under the parkerizing. I was stumped for a while by the HV beside the III* but think it designates a heavy barrel.
    DSC02836.jpg


    Behind the rear sight is HV and SC stamped in the barrel. Not sure what the SC would stand for. (Edit, HV means the rear sight is calibrated for High Velocity ammo, SC means Short Cone, chamber modified for Mk VII ammo)
    DSC02840.jpg


    Bottom of the butt stock has stamps, what looks like some O's and LAZ 43 followed by some arsenal Q/A pass cartouches.
    DSC02837.jpg


    Fore stock shares the receiver S/N but there also looks to be another smudged number.
    DSC02843.jpg


    From what I've read the nose cap is the version with lightening holes and no stacking swivel holes.
    DSC02844.jpg


    It shares the receiver S/N and has parkerizing over rust pitting.
    DSC02845.jpg


    Rear sight guard has the arsenal broad arrow. It also has the offset tang to allow for the windage adjustable rear sight but from what I've found, they were not installed in most war rifles to keep costs down.
    DSC02846.jpg


    More to come.
     
    Last edited:

    jessebogan

    Active Member
    Feb 25, 2012
    503
    LAZ is likely SLAZ for slazengers, the wood supplier in Australia. O may be "Orange arsenal"
    HV is for the mark VII ammo, "High Velocity"
     

    Dave91

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 25, 2009
    1,991
    Anne Arundel
    The HV means it's sighted for hyper velocity ammunition. Looks like I was beat to it. It should be a fun restoration. It probably got the pitting from serving in the unfriendly environment of the Pacific theater.
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    I'm really surprised at all the inspection stamps on the rifle.
    DSC02838.jpg


    I wonder if the B is some kind of early import mark? Ordinance A's with roman numerals wrap around the barrel. Lots of marks.
    DSC02839.jpg


    Barrel has a 2/45 date code. Bore is bright and lands are sharp. I hope this turns out to be a good shooter. I guess the three holes are some kind of case rupture safety.
    DSC02842.jpg


    DSC02850.jpg


    DSC02849.jpg


    Firing pin retaining screw is missing and the pin only protrudes .030" Minimum spec is .040" so I suspect it was pawned because it would no longer fire and ammo was scarce. This is will the third pawn shop rifle I've gotten that was nonfunctional.
    DSC02848.jpg


    Cocking piece has a chunk missing in the 1/2 cocked lug. The bolt is mismatched to the rifle so I need to check the headspace once I get the screw. I was going to make one but I might as well buy it since I 'need' a couple decent wood screws to put the stock back together.
    DSC02847.jpg


    The wood is currently soaking in citrus strip and the metal needs almost no remedial work so I'm watching it snow. One curiosity is how the Aussie's blackened the brass bits?
     

    Dave91

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 25, 2009
    1,991
    Anne Arundel
    The B is a prefix for the serial number. You are right, Lee Enfields seem to be especially covered in proof markings. Lithgows seem to have mismatched bolts more often than other Lee Enfield rifles from what I've seen. It was most likely someone stateside, maybe the importer, not taking the care to match bolts. What it your restoration plan?
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    Resto plan is get the stock back in a military finish. Mawke recommended boiled linseed oil so I plan on stripping the fugly looking poly finish and lightly scrubbing it with 0000 steel wool before applying the oil.

    For the metal, just repair / replace the damaged / missing bits to get it serviceable while learning as much as possible for it to become a good show and tell candidate. There is a very minimal amount of active rust where the wood chaffed the parkerizing coating off. Kroil followed by oil for remediation.

    I do want to find a era correct sling and thought about getting the canvas receiver and muzzle covers for it as it will spend 99.9% of its time getting dinged up in the safe. A butt stock cleaning kit is also in it's future and maybe a bayonet if I can find one at a show.
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    Fuzzy...
    DSC02852.jpg


    Fired up the mill and made a firing pin removal tool. :) Found some dimensions in an old NRA article on how to sporterize your Enfield. Sadly the PDF was corrupted so I couldn't print it. The dimensions on the part drawing were wrong too but close enough for me to compensate. Once reassembled the firing pin protrusion is .050". Oh yeah, the pin shaft had plier marks on it so who knows how long the locking screw was missing.
    DSC02853.jpg


    After three passes with the citrus stripper and some detail clean up in the crevices I drowned the inner stock areas in boiled linseed oil (this stuff stinks). Actually the dang can slipped out of my hand and shot oil over everything. Then reassembled it so I wouldn't lose any parts. I used a cut off wheel to dress up the damaged slots in the wood screws. Repair isn't obvious so I may not worry about replacing them.
    DSC02855.jpg


    DSC02854.jpg


    Naturally all the metal got coated with oil while wiping down the wood.
    DSC02856.jpg


    Now I'll keep the old girl up by the wood stove and keep pushing oil into her until the wood rejects it. I'm pretty happy with the finish and feel.
     

    mawkie

    C&R Whisperer
    Sep 28, 2007
    4,353
    Catonsville
    Once you get the bolt straightened out you'll have a nice SMLE on your hands. Looks like the furniture turned out well, good job!
    To add to what everyone else posted, the openings in the front sight guards allows you to adjust the sight without having to remove the guard. Something only the Australians did. That's how I can tell at a glance if a SMLE was in Australian service.
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    Just some links to the info I've found. Figure it'll help the next guy.

    http://www.allaboutenfields.co.nz/smle/

    http://www.lithgowsafmuseum.org.au/milproduction.html

    http://www.lithgowsafmuseum.org.au/factsheets/fs001_smle_markings.pdf

    Finally while checking the rifle out for markings I realized it had a DP crudely stamped on the top of the receiver. Add in that it has a mismatched bolt, I wonder if the original bolt was pinned at one time and someone found a replacement for it. Guess this old girl is going to get checked out further before firing by me. It did smell like it had been fired before I got it.

    http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?169367-DP-marked-enfield

    For what it's worth, my bolt has a T 439 L stamp on the back of the handle.
     

    mawkie

    C&R Whisperer
    Sep 28, 2007
    4,353
    Catonsville
    Rifles got DP'd for two reasons...
    1.) Worn beyond the ability to repair/rebuild. For SMLEs this is the most common reason to retire it to DP use. I've rarely seen a Lithgow DP marked though. Esp. one built during WWII. Interesting. BTW, many of the No2 MKIV .22 training rifles will have DP marks as worn rifles were converted to trainers (thrifty!).
    2.) Obsolete pattern. This you would occasionally see with Metford and Long Lees. Not so much with SMLEs. So you could have a perfectly serviceable rifle but it was retired as it was deemed obsolete. Many of these were also converted to .22 trainers.
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    Rifles got DP'd for two reasons...
    1.) Worn beyond the ability to repair/rebuild. For SMLEs this is the most common reason to retire it to DP use. I've rarely seen a Lithgow DP marked though. Esp. one built during WWII. Interesting. BTW, many of the No2 MKIV .22 training rifles will have DP marks as worn rifles were converted to trainers (thrifty!).
    2.) Obsolete pattern. This you would occasionally see with Metford and Long Lees. Not so much with SMLEs. So you could have a perfectly serviceable rifle but it was retired as it was deemed obsolete. Many of these were also converted to .22 trainers.

    Yep, fascinating stuff. Today I've also read that sometimes a serviceable piece could be stamped DP at the ordinance level if the lower commands required a DP piece for training purposes. Typically the firing pin would be shortened and the pin hole in the bolt riveted shut. The DP designation was not supposed to be made at the unit level. I also wonder if the receiver was stamped DP in it's '41 incarnation and rebuilt later. It's hard to tell the age of the stamp. If it was post rebuild I'd think there would be shiny metal where the parkerizing was impinged away from the stamp.

    I did run it out to a local GS to get checked out and they said the HS was out of spec but I'm hoping they were using a SAAMI spec and not the military field spec. http://www.303british.com/id28.html They were unable to say what it was, only that it was looser than their no go gauge.

    So, $45 for that privileged bit of info pissed off my inner machinist. Plan is to make a couple head space gauges and figure it out myself...

    Best part is a rimmed cartridge is much simpler to duplicate as a gauge.
    http://www.saami.org/pubresources/cc_drawings/Rifle/303 British.pdf

    One other source stated that 'S' stamped bolt heads are over length so there is hope. More to come.
     

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