s&w chief special model 36 help

rob b · Mar 2, 2017

Any idea what would cause a revolvers single action to stop working and work only in double action only ?

Gun is a Smith and Wesson j frame round butt chief special or model 36
serial number 101xxx if that helps

Shoots fine in double action only but when the hammer is pulled back it won't lock

John from MD · Mar 2, 2017

Most probably it is crud or congealed grease in the action. Does the trigger come all the way back as you cock the hammer? If not try moving the trigger while you hold the hammer back. You should feel a little spring tension until it hits it stop. You can spray the action with Birchwood casey crud cutter but it would be better to pull the side plate and clean and grease it properly.

Pulling the side plate without damage takes a special technique. If you want to do it, email me and I will explain it.

John from MD · Mar 2, 2017

If he said it was a double action malfunction, and he uses the gun a lot, I would agree. However, the single action sear notches on the hammer and trigger are robust and are usually found in excellent condition on even revolvers pre dating the numbered models.

It only takes a little congealed grease or oil to keep the two sear surfaces away from each other. Remember, the single action trigger pull on a S&W averages less than two pound with maybe .1" movement.

rob b · Mar 2, 2017

Side plate has been removed and the action cleaned and lubed all parts look to be present
Is it possible to be a double action only?
It is a pre number model I think

StantonCree · Mar 2, 2017

John from MD said:
If he said it was a double action malfunction, and he uses the gun a lot, I would agree. However, the single action sear notches on the hammer and trigger are robust and are usually found in excellent condition on even revolvers pre dating the numbered models.

It only takes a little congealed grease or oil to keep the two sear surfaces away from each other. Remember, the single action trigger pull on a S&W averages less than two pound with maybe .1" movement.

I deleted my post just prior to you responding because I thought yours was more plausible. I suggested the sear just in case there was previous work done to the gun that was unknown.

I recently bought a gun thinking one thing and upon closer inspection it turns out it wasn't original and a rebarreled gun. I shoulda looked a little better. I lost a few bucks on the deal, no biggie but it was a lesson learned in used guns I was hoping I wouldn't have to learn.

rob b · Mar 2, 2017

pic of the inside if that helps

John from MD · Mar 2, 2017

The sear nose on the hammer and trigger appear to be intact. If you will, remove the transfer bar and while holding the hammer back, move the trigger and let me know if it has about 1/8 inch of spring tension.
When you cock it, do it slowly. If the hammer doesn't want to come back, push in on the rebound slide as they move outward sometimes when the side plate is removed. If not, the spring in the rebound slide may be broken.

alucard0822 · Mar 2, 2017

Usually a worn or improperly stoned sear notch, can usually check the fit with the mainspring out, and the side plate off. Can swap in a new hammer and trigger if it's really bad, but they will need to be fitted.

pappa · Mar 22, 2017

Some SA/DA pistols do this if trigger spring gets weak, damaged, or anything associated with trigger going Quickly forward -in a positive manner. Truth is , not everyone means the same thing when they say " I cleaned it". Like battery terminals it's the contact surfaces you don't see are the ones that matter.
I flush out with solvent first and while still no oil, inspect springs/surfaces with a good glass if you have one. Then I use lacquer thinner (grips don't like LT) and a camet hair brush to drop LT on pivots , sliding contact areas (sides of trigger contacting frame for instance) - A you repetitively feed the LT while you move the contacting parts, I'll bet you see some black or orangeish brown (congealed oil) run out. I follow with MMO, then Lubriplate sear/hammer and any high pressure contacts, 5W heaviest anyplace.
Hate to be so detailed, but I've bought so many mil-surp Mausers that ended up working great without putting stronger springs in because they only looked clean. A weak or damaged trigger return spring may also cause this trouble of hammer not latching back when you try to cock it. Good luck

s&w chief special model 36 help

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

rob b

c@r collecting

John from MD

American Patriot

John from MD

American Patriot

rob b

c@r collecting

StantonCree

Watch your beer

rob b

c@r collecting

Attachments

John from MD

American Patriot

alucard0822

For great Justice

pappa

Member

Users who are viewing this thread

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Latest threads

Forum statistics

Share this page