Based on past experience, S&W revolvers are fairly easy to work on. There are some good videos on YouTube to help if you decide to tackle it yourself. Exercise care when opening the frame. Do not pry on the cover. Use a plastic mallet and tap the frame until it pops loose. The most important thing is to make sure everything is clean and smooth any rough surfaces before reassembly.
I have a Model10 that I serviced about a year ago for the first time. It is now my favorite handgun! Very smooth trigger makes it so nice my daughter loves shooting 125 gr. +P loads from it now.[/QUOTE
I do work on many of my guns for simple tasks, and have been collecting S&W revolvers for over 40 years, so I pretty much know them inside and out. I'd like to have a nickel for every sideplate I've removed. How bad can you get hurt making a mistake on a model 10? I'm looking for someone to do some delicate work on a gun that is worth considerably more. I could send the gun off, but I want to be present while it's being worked on. Thanks for your input.
Based on past experience, S&W revolvers are fairly easy to work on. There are some good videos on YouTube to help if you decide to tackle it yourself. Exercise care when opening the frame. Do not pry on the cover. Use a plastic mallet and tap the frame until it pops loose. The most important thing is to make sure everything is clean and smooth any rough surfaces before reassembly.
I have a Model10 that I serviced about a year ago for the first time. It is now my favorite handgun! Very smooth trigger makes it so nice my daughter loves shooting 125 gr. +P loads from it now.[/QUOTE
I do work on many of my guns for simple tasks, and have been collecting S&W revolvers for over 40 years, so I pretty much know them inside and out. I'd like to have a nickel for every sideplate I've removed. How bad can you get hurt making a mistake on a model 10? I'm looking for someone to do some delicate work on a gun that is worth considerably more. I could send the gun off, but I want to be present while it's being worked on. Thanks for your input.
I trust Scott at Scott's Gunsmithing for anything I can't handle myself. But, I doubt he is going to let you watch while he is working on it. I think you'd be hard pressed to find anyone willing to do that.
I trust Scott at Scott's Gunsmithing for anything I can't handle myself. But, I doubt he is going to let you watch while he is working on it. I think you'd be hard pressed to find anyone willing to do that.
I do a lot of my own work too but if I can't figure it out , I take it to Scott and let him deal with it.
As for watching them work...not likely. If you were to get hurt in their workshop they would be liable.
I do a lot of my own work too but if I can't figure it out , I take it to Scott and let him deal with it.
As for watching them work...not likely. If you were to get hurt in their workshop they would be liable.
How did these quotes get all backwards?
"Well over 50yo " is not useful . The relevant dividing line is Long Action vs Short Action . Short Action is essentially modern and current . Long Action parts not available from S&W , and secondary market is becoming spotty ( but they are excellent , very smooth revolvers.
The transition occured during aprox 1954-57 era .
Does you revolver have an actual Model Number stamped in the window of the frame ? If so almost certianly Short Action .
No Model Number ? Some transitional models had Short before gaining Model number .
What problem(s) are you having ?
Blanket insults are not the best way to get recommendations. There are people here with world-class vintage/antique revolver collections.
Just tried to help, sir. I have no way of knowing anyone's experience or skill level. Don't need a lecture. Excuse me for trying. Hope you find what you are looking for.
Blanket insults are not the best way to get recommendations. There are people here with world-class vintage/antique revolver collections.
Just wait, next he'll say the gunsmith can't be a C&R holder for "liability issues".