Deal on Polymer80 compact.
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lmorrison17
Active Member
- Feb 1, 2008
- 187
Stripped 19 slides $180.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162495423866?ul_noapp=true
Appear to be Lone Wolfs older version before the Alphawolf, manufactured by Dasan Machine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162495423866?ul_noapp=true
Appear to be Lone Wolfs older version before the Alphawolf, manufactured by Dasan Machine.
Thanks!!! Cheapest I have seen. Ordered.
j_h_smith
Ultimate Member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 28,516
Did you notice that the slide in that auction does not have the rear sight dovetail milled?
lmorrison17
Active Member
- Feb 1, 2008
- 187
Holy crap I didn't.
I apologize , if I had noticed I would have pointed it out.
I guess it could be a candidate for optic milling.
I apologize , if I had noticed I would have pointed it out.
I guess it could be a candidate for optic milling.
pilotguy299
Ultimate Member
that would be an awesome buy, if it had the rear sight cut.
i bought one like it but with the sight cut and markings from lone wolf for about $210 a few years ago.
is there a place near central MD that can do a sight cut for a reasonable price?
Muleskinner
Ultimate Member
Sub compact frame will be years as the G26/27/42/43 are still under patent I believe..a 45/10mm would be terrific if they design it with metal rails front and rear.
Yes. Have a mill.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
Well, past the 1K mark on the compact build as of today. Happy to say it's holding up well, unlike my wallet.
I really should start thinking about reloading .357SIG soon..., this is getting costly.
I really should start thinking about reloading .357SIG soon..., this is getting costly.
How is the 357SIG to shoot? Contemplating picking one of those up.
I was lucky enough to pick up a G19 slide from a member here. Best place for lower parts out and trigger?
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
I find it no more uncomfortable to shoot than any of my .45's and 9mm's.
In the M&P, .357SIG was more pronounced - it wouldn't hurt the palm, but after a couple hundred rounds, you knew it was about time to hang it up for the day.
With the 31 slide on the G19 frame, I ripped off 250+ rounds today - and I only stopped because I ran out of ammo.
Don't know if Midway is still selling the 19 frame parts kits for $49.99, but that's where I got mine from - yeah, no fancy connectors or trigger springs, but stock isn't horrible.
DJones2987
Active Member
How difficult is an 80% pistol build compared to an 80% AR build?
I've never build an AR but this project was pretty easy. Prior to it I had never done anything on any firearm.
DJones2987
Active Member
Thanks! My AR build was much simpler than I'd imagined it would be.
The Polymer80 builds are easier.
Fox123
Ultimate Member
Put it this way, if you had to you could build the thing with an xacto knife.
DJones2987
Active Member
Well damn. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Thanks gentlemen.
Rambler
Doing the best with the worst.
- Oct 22, 2011
- 2,219
I have to agree that this polymer80 compact is surprisingly easy.
To reiterate what others have said here and elsewhere, here are some tips and pitfalls:
Drilling pin holes:
Follow the instructions regarding drilling the pin holes from each side and not all the way through from one side.
Also, the instruction to only use a hand drill and drill from the side while clamping the "bottom" of the jig is due to the design of the jig. While it has a latch at the top, the rest of the 2 halves are "secured" only by small alignment pins. Clamping the jig with one side "up" can cause it to flex and the drill guides in the jig to move in relation to the frame blank inside it.
Frame rail blocking features:
I used a small milling machine to remove the rail denial blocks. IF you go this route note that the included end mill is 9mm and that unless you use a drill chuck to hold it. The closest non-metric collet which might work is 11/32". So, I used a different end mill I already had. I finished with light filing. Remember, it is a lot harder to put back material that to remove it!
Honestly, clamping the jig in a bench vise and using flat files would do the job just as fast. I taped off the areas not to be removed so as not to mar them.
Slide denial feature:
This is by far the feature which seems to be most noted online as causing problems. I do not think it is a good idea to use the factory suggested method and attempt removal of this using a cross slide vise in a drill press unless you use a clamp to secure the jig from flexing open at the "muzzle" end (upward in the vise). Even with extra clamps, the amount of flexure makes for an extremely chattery, unstable cut. I started to do this set up on a full size milling machine and upon looking at the small amount of material to remove versus the time to set up, I instead did it by hand.
If you look closely at the material to be removed, there is a U-shaped line to the rear of the frame indicating the limit for removal. The bottom of the "U" will be flush with the rounded channel where the recoil assembly goes. In order to protect the areas I did not want to remove material, I carefully taped off those areas with a few layers of painters tape. This allowed me to file and sand a little more aggressively without worrying about marring the frame.
I used a bare hacksaw blade to notch the tops of the U and worked down into the channel. I was able to break off the middle of the U. I then worked with a variety of small files to remove the bulk of the material. I finished the corners of the U portion with sandpaper wrapper around a 1/4" wooden dowel and the sides of the U with a small flat file.
Problems encountered:
The front and rear locking blocks fit into molded cavities in the frame. Make sure you get all of the machining debris out of the frame before jamming parts in.
The drill bits are slightly undersized and the metal pins are slightly oversized. This makes for a very tight press fit into the frame holes. I carefully cleaned (opened) up the holes a little with a drill. Go slow, check fit and do not remove too much material. Also, it makes for a nicer looking job to deburr the holes inside and out after drilling.
When I assembled the frame parts, I discovered that the front hole of the front locking block did not align with the corresponding factory drilled hole in the frame. When I installed the pins, the front block was canted up slightly at the front causing frame rail misalignment. I was able to see that the rear block was at the correct height since there are small blocks or protrusions in the top of the frame which line up with the rear rails if they are at the correct height. This was also the case for the rear end of the front rails.
When I looked into the front pin holes with the block installed, the was a small portion of the block visible in the hole. However, it did not look the same from both sides. So, I measured the front block and found that the front holes were not at the same distance from the rails at the top.
Leaving out the front pin, a factory slide assembly goes on easy.
At this point, all clues are pointing to a bad front locking block.
So, I called polymer80 customer service and got through on the first try. The guy I spoke to confirmed that the frame protrusions should line up with the rails. Further, he said that the front pin hole is molded in and that it had not historically been a problem. He said the likely problem was a slightly mis-shapen front block. So, they are sending me a new one. I will post results when I get it.
To reiterate what others have said here and elsewhere, here are some tips and pitfalls:
Drilling pin holes:
Follow the instructions regarding drilling the pin holes from each side and not all the way through from one side.
Also, the instruction to only use a hand drill and drill from the side while clamping the "bottom" of the jig is due to the design of the jig. While it has a latch at the top, the rest of the 2 halves are "secured" only by small alignment pins. Clamping the jig with one side "up" can cause it to flex and the drill guides in the jig to move in relation to the frame blank inside it.
Frame rail blocking features:
I used a small milling machine to remove the rail denial blocks. IF you go this route note that the included end mill is 9mm and that unless you use a drill chuck to hold it. The closest non-metric collet which might work is 11/32". So, I used a different end mill I already had. I finished with light filing. Remember, it is a lot harder to put back material that to remove it!
Honestly, clamping the jig in a bench vise and using flat files would do the job just as fast. I taped off the areas not to be removed so as not to mar them.
Slide denial feature:
This is by far the feature which seems to be most noted online as causing problems. I do not think it is a good idea to use the factory suggested method and attempt removal of this using a cross slide vise in a drill press unless you use a clamp to secure the jig from flexing open at the "muzzle" end (upward in the vise). Even with extra clamps, the amount of flexure makes for an extremely chattery, unstable cut. I started to do this set up on a full size milling machine and upon looking at the small amount of material to remove versus the time to set up, I instead did it by hand.
If you look closely at the material to be removed, there is a U-shaped line to the rear of the frame indicating the limit for removal. The bottom of the "U" will be flush with the rounded channel where the recoil assembly goes. In order to protect the areas I did not want to remove material, I carefully taped off those areas with a few layers of painters tape. This allowed me to file and sand a little more aggressively without worrying about marring the frame.
I used a bare hacksaw blade to notch the tops of the U and worked down into the channel. I was able to break off the middle of the U. I then worked with a variety of small files to remove the bulk of the material. I finished the corners of the U portion with sandpaper wrapper around a 1/4" wooden dowel and the sides of the U with a small flat file.
Problems encountered:
The front and rear locking blocks fit into molded cavities in the frame. Make sure you get all of the machining debris out of the frame before jamming parts in.
The drill bits are slightly undersized and the metal pins are slightly oversized. This makes for a very tight press fit into the frame holes. I carefully cleaned (opened) up the holes a little with a drill. Go slow, check fit and do not remove too much material. Also, it makes for a nicer looking job to deburr the holes inside and out after drilling.
When I assembled the frame parts, I discovered that the front hole of the front locking block did not align with the corresponding factory drilled hole in the frame. When I installed the pins, the front block was canted up slightly at the front causing frame rail misalignment. I was able to see that the rear block was at the correct height since there are small blocks or protrusions in the top of the frame which line up with the rear rails if they are at the correct height. This was also the case for the rear end of the front rails.
When I looked into the front pin holes with the block installed, the was a small portion of the block visible in the hole. However, it did not look the same from both sides. So, I measured the front block and found that the front holes were not at the same distance from the rails at the top.
Leaving out the front pin, a factory slide assembly goes on easy.
At this point, all clues are pointing to a bad front locking block.
So, I called polymer80 customer service and got through on the first try. The guy I spoke to confirmed that the frame protrusions should line up with the rails. Further, he said that the front pin hole is molded in and that it had not historically been a problem. He said the likely problem was a slightly mis-shapen front block. So, they are sending me a new one. I will post results when I get it.
Rambler
Doing the best with the worst.
- Oct 22, 2011
- 2,219
So, this is a quick update of my problem with the frame rails on a polymer80 940 compact. I had called their customer service on Friday late afternoon East coast time. The guy I spoke to said he would send me the replacement part "now". I got home today, Monday to find a new front locking block and pin sent from Carson City, Nevada First Class USPS. I checked the hole spacing relative to the frame rail tops and found the new part to be 30 thousandths of an inch higher. When installed, this pulled the rails down into perfect parallel alignment front to rear. The slide to frame fit is very good with only the slightest amount of play. It is certainly no worse than a stock Glock. Overall, this rates as among the best customer service I have experienced in a while.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
1450 rounds and counting.
I should probably clean this thing eventually...
I should probably clean this thing eventually...
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