bolts to hold gongs??

Moorvogi · Oct 3, 2018

i have a collection of gongs in my backyard and i'll be darned if i cant find a "good" way to keep them up.

I've tried rubber strands while using a swingset type gong holder. This works the best but takes up the most space and is non conducive for shooting it again "quickly" because it's swinging around. OR... it gets wacked so hard, it knocks the entire stand down hahah.

I've tried fence post (t-bar) with a cap holding the gong. I've tried a 2x4 and cap holding the gong. Both of these variations work but MAN does it suck when you hit that little 1" bolt and the entire thing falls down.. you're done for the day w/ that gong!

Does anyone else have a remedy for the t-bar or 2x4 variation?? do they make.. ar500 BOLTS??

Boondock Saint · Oct 3, 2018

Hickok45 uses something called shepherd's hooks. Put them deep enough in the ground and/or give them some backing with a 2x4 and you're good to go.

545a52ea-f11c-4363-8fb9-3155382a11e7_400_compressed.jpg

SKIP · Oct 3, 2018

I utilize Grade 8 bolts. Carriage bolts (silver) are 2 piece where Grade 8 are bronze in color and one piece..

Moorvogi · Oct 3, 2018

Boondock Saint said:
Hickok45 uses something called shepherd's hooks. Put them deep enough in the ground and/or give them some backing with a 2x4 and you're good to go.

As simple as it is.. i didn't think about slappin a 2x4 behind the shepherd's hook! My concern w/ these was that they would still swing/flop around but.. NOT with a 2x4 supporting it to prevent twist!

Moorvogi · Oct 3, 2018

SKIP said:
I utilize Grade 8 bolts. Carriage bolts (silver) are 2 piece where Grade 8 are bronze in color and one piece..

I'm not familuar w/ grade 8 bolts. I'll look it up but, are they harder than the regular carriage bolts? I've found if you hit a silver bolt (i assume it was carriage) it blows the head right off like a hot knife in butter.

SKIP · Oct 3, 2018

Moorvogi said:
I'm not familuar w/ grade 8 bolts. I'll look it up but, are they harder than the regular carriage bolts? I've found if you hit a silver bolt (i assume it was carriage) it blows the head right off like a hot knife in butter.

They are hard. My local hardware store and Tractor Supply has them.
Both are located in the specialty bolt section. Pull out trays.

https://ctstargets.com/collections/parts/products/replacement-grade-8-bolt

I have hit the bolt head many times and the target remains.

HoCoShooter · Oct 3, 2018

I just bungee corded a 1x2 to cover exposed bolts on a 2x4 setup. Of course I managed to shoot the bungee cord in half after a while and then moved to cable ties.

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ACMAN · Oct 3, 2018

I hang mine from 1"-2" strips of conveyor belt with a carriage bolt through the gong.

Moorvogi · Oct 3, 2018

HoCoShooter said:
I just bungee corded a 1x2 to cover exposed bolts on a 2x4 setup. Of course I managed to shoot the bungee cord in half after a while and then moved to cable ties.

i'm trying to avoid this type of setup as it allows the plates to swing and thus i cant do a 3 shot drill for example. i like the wide T though. I found when i DO use the 2x4, it gets cut from all the shrapnel. this design looks to address that too. well done.

ps: is this AGC??? looks like AGC range but i guess to some extent, most ranges look the same.

CrazySanMan · Oct 3, 2018

I use heavy rebar. I cut a couple inches off the end and weld it near the end of one side at a 45 degree angle and slide the plates onto that. They hold the plates steady since the rebar is behind the plate backing it when the plate is hit. I have a lot of tbar fence post laying around and I'm thinking of welding some rebar pieces onto the tbar since it will hold more steady in the ground than just rebar does.

HoCoShooter · Oct 3, 2018

Moorvogi said:
i'm trying to avoid this type of setup as it allows the plates to swing and thus i cant do a 3 shot drill for example. i like the wide T though. I found when i DO use the 2x4, it gets cut from all the shrapnel. this design looks to address that too. well done.

ps: is this AGC??? looks like AGC range but i guess to some extent, most ranges look the same.

Thanks Moorvogi - yes, it's the right side of the pistol range where you can set up behind the railroad ties. One thing - the holes where you stick your 2x4's face so that the short end of the 2x4 is facing you as you shoot - I had to screw a one foot section of 2x4 sideways to the bottom of my main post in order for it to be facing the right way. I can send a pic of that later if it doesn't make sense.

Matt

HoCoShooter · Oct 3, 2018

CrazySanMan said:
I use heavy rebar. I cut a couple inches off the end and weld it near the end of one side at a 45 degree angle and slide the plates onto that. They hold the plates steady since the rebar is behind the plate backing it when the plate is hit. I have a lot of tbar fence post laying around and I'm thinking of welding some rebar pieces onto the tbar since it will hold more steady in the ground than just rebar does.

Rebar is great, but a lot of ranges won't let you use it for shooting steel. AGC's rule is that the frame material must not be able to deflect a bullet.

Moorvogi · Oct 3, 2018

CrazySanMan said:
I use heavy rebar. I cut a couple inches off the end and weld it near the end of one side at a 45 degree angle and slide the plates onto that. They hold the plates steady since the rebar is behind the plate backing it when the plate is hit. I have a lot of tbar fence post laying around and I'm thinking of welding some rebar pieces onto the tbar since it will hold more steady in the ground than just rebar does.

so the rebar is welded to the plate too? i dont have a welder but a mounting system BEHIND the plate wouldn't be a bad idea. like.. weld on a "hook" of sorts. putting that on the t-bar in additon and.. BAM SON.. you got a winner winner chicken dinner!

the "hook" doesn't have to be ar500 steel.. just strong enough to hold onto the gong and have locking system (bolt + nut on thread) etc etc.

oOhhH now we're cooking. Check this out; no pic so work w/ me here on the idea/concept.

Back of plate has a bar welded to it. the bar then also has 2 washer type plates that are FIXED width (maybe 3/8 inch) gap in the middle. This gap allows a "U" type locking system. then somethign to keep it from flailing around or "jumping" off the hook. basiclly replacing the BOLT that goes THRU the gong and putting it 100% behidn the gong. replacing threaded bolt w/ a fixed washer.. kind deal.

SKIP · Oct 3, 2018

CrazySanMan said:
I use heavy rebar. I cut a couple inches off the end and weld it near the end of one side at a 45 degree angle and slide the plates onto that. They hold the plates steady since the rebar is behind the plate backing it when the plate is hit. I have a lot of tbar fence post laying around and I'm thinking of welding some rebar pieces onto the tbar since it will hold more steady in the ground than just rebar does.

We can't use rebar or any metal at the AGC range.
Target holders must be wood.

Bountied · Oct 3, 2018

I use rebar with hooks welded on, two tow straps with hooks, and the gold hardened bolt's and nuts. The straps can take a lot of damage before breaking. I've shot chains off on the first shot, it's annoying. The grade 8 bolts described earlier have taken several hits and are still fine. If I reinforce the tow straps they should hold up for longer. I'm thinking of folding them over stitching them and going through two layers to increase longevity. Bolting through one layer will rip through after about 100 rounds and need to be mended.

threegun · Oct 5, 2018

Check out Shooting targets7 accessories page for an assortment of reasonable priced hanging options. I use their chains on most of my larger gongs. I use the rubber straps on the smaller gongs to lesson the swing. They have two bolt sets for $1.97, chain sets for 6.97, and rubber sets for $9.33 you would be hard pressed to buy locally any cheaper. They do offer quantity discounts and usually run pretty good holiday sales. I am a fan boy of these guys.

https://shootingtargets7.com/accessories.html?p=1

CSHS · Oct 19, 2018

Depending how far the hole is in from the edge of the gong, try a cold shut. You can hook a chain to it before hammering it shut. Advanced technique is to weld it after closing, but not required.

https://www.e-rigging.com/three-eighths-inch-Grade-30-Cold-Shut

bolts to hold gongs??

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