Suppressor Cleaning, ugh!

outrider58 · Jun 29, 2017

My Ryder 9 is just coming up in it's first(1k round) cleaning which is what surefire recommends. Sheesh! It took me more than an hour to disassemble the darn thing. I think next cleaning will happen at 500.

That said, what is the best way and products to use for carbon removal? I also own several sealed cans that need cleaning as well. I'm thinking about stopping by HF and looking at ultrasonic cleaners. Will they do the job or am I wasting my money? Is there a certain power level I need to buy? Are there any LGSs locally that offer cleaning (especially the sealed ones)?

Just about every gun I shoot other than my hunting rifles, I shoot suppressed. Please help me keep these cans off the shelf of my safe and on the range where they are the most fun.

clandestine · Jun 29, 2017

The HF Ultrasonic Cleaner will clean a sealed can quite well BUT it will mess up the external finish unless you rig a plastic hanger to suspend the suppressor so the outer tube touches nothing.

I use Simple Green in mine unless the parts are aluminum. If so I is the Avation Type. Before I do the Sonic cleaning, I spray wipe out foam I. The can and let it set for a day to loosen up the fouling.

For anything lead based like .22 a tumbler or bead blaster will work, as will the dip but they are toxic.

Alphabrew · Jun 29, 2017

When the NFA goes away I am so looking forward to disposable cans.

engineerbrian · Jun 29, 2017

Alphabrew said:
When the NFA goes away I am so looking forward to disposable cans.

Almost there!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6FOeHwsxAI

babalou · Jun 29, 2017

just blow through it. you have a perty mouth

outrider58 · Jun 29, 2017

clandestine said:
The HF Ultrasonic Cleaner will clean a sealed can quite well BUT it will mess up the external finish unless you rig a plastic hanger to suspend the suppressor so the outer tube touches nothing.

I use Simple Green in mine unless the parts are aluminum. If so I is the Avation Type. Before I do the Sonic cleaning, I spray wipe out foam I. The can and let it set for a day to loosen up the fouling.

For anything lead based like .22 a tumbler or bead blaster will work, as will the dip but they are toxic.

Any special consideration for inconel baffles? I was thinking of tumbling my cups in walnut medium.

Alphabrew said:
When the NFA goes away I am so looking forward to disposable cans.

Like Europe

engineerbrian said:
Almost there!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6FOeHwsxAI

I saw that. Very interesting.

babalou said:
just blow through it. you have a perty mouth

GolfR · Jun 29, 2017

outrider58 said:
Any special consideration for inconel baffles? I was thinking of tumbling my cups in walnut medium

Interesting thought, cleaning all the baffles are a total pain in the a$$. I never thought of throwing them into the wet tumbler for a short period of time. The baffles are stainless and with stainless media, it seems like a relatively short tumble could do wonders?

Cleaning the tube itself is relatively easy if you buy a wire or nilon brush of the right diameter and put it on a drill.

Jollyllama · Jun 29, 2017

There used to be a great article written on rrdvegas.com. Guy shot a lot of .22 suppressed; like a thousand rounds at a time. He did a lot of experimentation. The site is no longer available for some reason.

End result is he found tumbling the stainless baffles and even threaded pieces in SS media with dishwasher detergent, water and lemishine for a couple hours made them like new. I recall that some ceracoted stuff may have gotten dinged up. But the stainless media did not hurt the baffled or even threaded parts.

He would the. Heat them in the oven, drop them in 100% silicon oil or dot 5 brake fluid and let them cool for a couple hours. Then let them sit to drip/dry on a cookie sheet with paper Towles and reassemble. His assessment was that the silicone oil made future cleaning easier.

His write up was quite impressive with many pictures and I wish it was still available.

This is all from memory, but I read it not too long ago. I tried it and found it effective. I have not found walnut media to be very effective as the build up is too thick.

babalou · Jun 29, 2017

or this

outrider58 said:
Any special consideration for inconel baffles? I was thinking of tumbling my cups in walnut medium.

Like Europe

I saw that. Very interesting.

start at :56

Doctor_M · Jun 29, 2017

I can't wait to have this problem.... Come'on already freakin' ATF.

outrider58 · Jun 29, 2017

Doctor_M said:
I can't wait to have this problem.... Come'on already freakin' ATF.

I will definitely be waiting on your input as well doc.

So far, this has been very educational. Thanks everyone.

engineerbrian · Jun 29, 2017

For the ATF hold out crowd, AMTAC is paying for tax tamps if you buy one of their cans.

outrider58 · Jun 29, 2017

babalou said:
start at :56

threegun · Jun 29, 2017

I have been using Frog Lube paste on my 22 can. I smeared some on when it was new, heated it up but never removed the excess. I ran 1000 rounds of 22 through the Sparrow. When I took it apart I smeared more Frog Lube paste on everything and let it sit for 30 minutes. To my surprise most of the gunk came off with a paper towel. I used a small brass pick and brush to hit the thick stuff at the barrel end and it came off with a very light touch. I think I may have found a good use for Frog Lube.

md_al · Jun 29, 2017

Jollyllama said:
There used to be a great article written on rrdvegas.com. Guy shot a lot of .22 suppressed; like a thousand rounds at a time. He did a lot of experimentation. The site is no longer available for some reason.

End result is he found tumbling the stainless baffles and even threaded pieces in SS media with dishwasher detergent, water and lemishine for a couple hours made them like new. I recall that some ceracoted stuff may have gotten dinged up. But the stainless media did not hurt the baffled or even threaded parts.

He would the. Heat them in the oven, drop them in 100% silicon oil or dot 5 brake fluid and let them cool for a couple hours. Then let them sit to drip/dry on a cookie sheet with paper Towles and reassemble. His assessment was that the silicone oil made future cleaning easier.

His write up was quite impressive with many pictures and I wish it was still available.

This is all from memory, but I read it not too long ago. I tried it and found it effective. I have not found walnut media to be very effective as the build up is too thick.

I saw that article before but did not bother to pre treat in the oven since all of my suppressors were already used: I simply soaked the suppressors overnight. This allowed the wiping off of new dirt in the suppressor but not the old dirt from prior use.

The overnight soak also worked in a Gemtech GM9 suppressor that I was shooting a lot of .22 and 9mm in and did not take the suppressor apart for about 2 weeks; which kinda sealed itself. I soaked it overnight in Dot5 silicone brake fluid (bought at Amazon). A few taps with the soft mallet loosened the carbon allowing me to take apart the suppressor. The overnight soak also allowed me to wipe off the dirt left by the .22.

From that point on I just soak them 2 days before shooting day and let it drip dry the day before shooting. Lithium grease on the threads. And take the suppressor apart when I get home and soak in Dot5 Silicone.

For a Form1 suppressor which is mounted on my 22 AR pistol I experimented and cleaned it with Canola oil (generic Fireclean) and 1000 grit sandpaper (if I recall correctly bought from Home Depot). This even removed the grit that was stuck in the inner side of the suppressor tube. Once done, I wiped off excess Canola oil from the freezeplugs and tube. Reassembled the suppressor and soaked it overnight in the Dot5 Silicone. Then lithium grease on the threads on the day of use.

I know that rifle suppressors are supposedly self cleaning but so far the silicone soak makes it easy to clean. I have not tried soaking a sealed can like a Gemtech G5 but sadly I rarely use the AR pistol that is paired to it.

My wife thinks I spend more time cleaning them then using them.

YMMV.

Jollyllama · Jun 30, 2017

Also an interesting approach that may save some time. Tumbling gets them pretty much clean as new. But you don't really have to get them that clean.

I have used aluminum anti seize on all my threads, which really helps with disassembly as well. A little goes a long way. It will likely end up on the outer tube and can be wiped off with isopropyl easily. Just wiping it with a towel gives it the "battle worn look" as the anti seize kinda just wipes around and gets varying shades of silver. Again a little goes a long way to avoid this. But it has been great at keeping all the pieces easy to get apart and back together smoothly. It collects carbon in the threads which is also easily wiped up. I suggest having a dedicated anti seize old t-shirt; it can get messy fast.

I'll try the dot5 only soak and see how that goes with some mild wiping/ sandpaper or bronze brush for quick cleaning.

I also haven't bothered with the sealed cans as mine also don't get as heavy use and are reportedly self cleaning. If anyone has a method for these I'd be interested. I've read many different opinions that I have no experience with.

ar15dave · Jul 24, 2017

I am not looking forward to cleaning mine but, good thing is, most of my cans have stainless steel or titanium internals so I can use me sonic cleaner. I was told not to put aluminum in a sonic cleaner as it eats away at it.

Will try the frog lube thing on my two 22 cans and see if that helps. I shoot them the most anyway.

Dave

teratos · Jul 24, 2017

My .22 can has SS baffles. I wet tumble them with SS media. Come out looking new.

teratos · Jul 24, 2017

My .22 can has SS baffles. I wet tumble them with SS media and dishwashing liquid. Come out looking new.

dreadpirate · Jul 24, 2017

Alphabrew said:
When the NFA goes away I am so looking forward to disposable cans.

There already is such a thing; oil filter suppressors. You pay for the mount and the tax stamp. No cleaning. Totally legal.

Suppressor Cleaning, ugh!

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