omegared24
Ultimate Member
I took one to Chad's class and it spec'd out perfectly. It was also staked nicely.
AR-15 build info.
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I took one to Chad's class and it spec'd out perfectly. It was also staked nicely.
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
jimbobborg
Oddball caliber fan
Chad we might need a date
I'm probably gonna NFA this. A2 stock would be 30 inches.
How about this instead? http://www.battlearmsdevelopment.co...-qd-end-plate-bad-lbs-lightweight-stock-combo
Anyone have one of these? The specs seem OK to my minimally trained eye. (https://www.groundzeroprecision.com/collections/featured/products/ar-15-bcg?variant=20476012999)
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
To tactical looking for my taste. I think the triangle HGs and my old grey bushmaster A2 stock would give it a nice old school feel
- Jul 29, 2014
- 50,034
That looks good to me, but I'll defer to our resident expert. All the info I recognize sounds good though.
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
BTW 5 days from order to delivery from PSA. 1 day from Fulton!
hermfro
Member
Good evening everyone. As I am new to this, and do not have the time to start at page one atm. Simple question. What is a good "inexpensive" (not cheap) 16" barrel to use for my first build? I have been trolling all sites looking at hbars, figured a chime in here would help out a lot. Thanks y'all
Hawkeye
The Leatherstocking
- Jan 29, 2009
- 3,971
This would be a good place to start:
http://palmettostatearmory.com/oem-...v-nitride-m4-ext-5-56-nato-1-7-h-bar-psa.html
- Jul 29, 2014
- 50,034
It all depends on what "not cheap" means, but you can look at DEZ arms too. Not bad barrels. Button rifled...
http://www.shop.dezarms.com/categor...045607334415CF8.p3plqscsfapp002?categoryId=27
hermfro
Member
This is what I mainly came back to everytime, just trying to get my feet wet for the first time but still would like to use quality components. Thats what I mean by "not cheap", inexpensive and still of good quality. Thanks for the link, I got my lower parts kits from Palmetto and have had no issue.
omegared24
Ultimate Member
I have two of them. Keep in mind that it looks like it was nitrided after assembly.
That won't prevent me from using them as they look fine and feel like they didn't come loose during the process and Palmetto typically uses quality manufacturers.
I'll post a review once I get it assembled and start using it.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
.
Last edited:
Man what a difference 4 inches makes (that's what she said) and optic choice.
I've pretty much finished building my 16" .223 wylde HBAR upper. It has a Bushnell TRS-25 on it now as well as a light mount and will have a Streamlight 1l as a weapon light (mount on, light incoming). I'll also likely swap the TRS-25 picatinny riser with a UTG mid height riser as the UTG is only a few bucks and is over an ounce lighter. I may put Magpul MBUS on it too.
All that said, I just dropped them on a scale. With my Spikes lower on the 16" HBAR it tips the scales at 6lbs14oz with no magazine. The 20" with Bushnell Trophy XLT 3-9x40mm scope on it tips the scales at 9lbs2oz.
It is painfully obvious the weight difference. I didn't mind the weight of the 20", but man that 16" is just damn pointable.
Both weights are going to change, 2oz for that light, about an ounce or so back off for a different red dot mount, maybe another 2oz or so for the MBUS if I do stick them on. I might decide to drop some money on the bling of a Ti A2 flash hider to drop another ounce or so out at the end of the muzzle. So it might hit 7lbs even.
To impact both, I am getting an aluminum buffer tube/end plate (it weighs about .4oz less and it also has a sling attachment point if I decide I want to change up how I have my sling right now). I might swap out the take down pins for Ti ones as well. Probably not, seems to be a waste for the price to drop all of a tenth or so of an ounce.
The 20" is getting a different scope mount, aero precision lightweight scope mount, that weighs 3oz less than what is currently on there (biggest bang for the buck at $66). I may also swap the gas block for either a faxon skeletonized steel gas block like I slapped on the 16" (about .8oz less) or a skeletonized Ti gas block (about 1.4oz less, but also around $60 or so for the ones I've looked at instead of $30 for the Faxon). That gets my 20" down around 8lbs9-10oz depending on final decisions.
Yeah, I am kind of piddling money on it/them, especially for some things I "should have bought to start with". Live and learn and some of it is teaching me what I should just buy from the start on my next build, what isn't really worth it, etc.
For instance I won't do it with these, because it is a pain more than anything to knock the pin out and put a new one in, but I might just look at a Ti/Aluminum forward assist. I hadn't really noticed how heavy they are, but those suckers weigh .7oz and some of the light weight ones are around .2oz...but also costs only a few dollars more than a regular forward assist.
I won't get ridiculous with these and might not ever with an AR-15 build, but I really am working towards trying to figure out where I can spend only a few dollars more (or maybe nothing more in a few cases!) to shave a few ounces. On a brand new build so far I've run across a few bits that add up to an easy 6-8oz of weight savings total that add probably no more than $100 or maybe $150 over the cost of other parts decisions. After that it looks like more around $200 or so for another 3-4oz of weight savings. Kind of diminishing returns probably.
This is based on inexpensive (but not necessarily cheap) parts selection versus some choices towards lighter parts.
I've pretty much finished building my 16" .223 wylde HBAR upper. It has a Bushnell TRS-25 on it now as well as a light mount and will have a Streamlight 1l as a weapon light (mount on, light incoming). I'll also likely swap the TRS-25 picatinny riser with a UTG mid height riser as the UTG is only a few bucks and is over an ounce lighter. I may put Magpul MBUS on it too.
All that said, I just dropped them on a scale. With my Spikes lower on the 16" HBAR it tips the scales at 6lbs14oz with no magazine. The 20" with Bushnell Trophy XLT 3-9x40mm scope on it tips the scales at 9lbs2oz.
It is painfully obvious the weight difference. I didn't mind the weight of the 20", but man that 16" is just damn pointable.
Both weights are going to change, 2oz for that light, about an ounce or so back off for a different red dot mount, maybe another 2oz or so for the MBUS if I do stick them on. I might decide to drop some money on the bling of a Ti A2 flash hider to drop another ounce or so out at the end of the muzzle. So it might hit 7lbs even.
To impact both, I am getting an aluminum buffer tube/end plate (it weighs about .4oz less and it also has a sling attachment point if I decide I want to change up how I have my sling right now). I might swap out the take down pins for Ti ones as well. Probably not, seems to be a waste for the price to drop all of a tenth or so of an ounce.
The 20" is getting a different scope mount, aero precision lightweight scope mount, that weighs 3oz less than what is currently on there (biggest bang for the buck at $66). I may also swap the gas block for either a faxon skeletonized steel gas block like I slapped on the 16" (about .8oz less) or a skeletonized Ti gas block (about 1.4oz less, but also around $60 or so for the ones I've looked at instead of $30 for the Faxon). That gets my 20" down around 8lbs9-10oz depending on final decisions.
Yeah, I am kind of piddling money on it/them, especially for some things I "should have bought to start with". Live and learn and some of it is teaching me what I should just buy from the start on my next build, what isn't really worth it, etc.
For instance I won't do it with these, because it is a pain more than anything to knock the pin out and put a new one in, but I might just look at a Ti/Aluminum forward assist. I hadn't really noticed how heavy they are, but those suckers weigh .7oz and some of the light weight ones are around .2oz...but also costs only a few dollars more than a regular forward assist.
I won't get ridiculous with these and might not ever with an AR-15 build, but I really am working towards trying to figure out where I can spend only a few dollars more (or maybe nothing more in a few cases!) to shave a few ounces. On a brand new build so far I've run across a few bits that add up to an easy 6-8oz of weight savings total that add probably no more than $100 or maybe $150 over the cost of other parts decisions. After that it looks like more around $200 or so for another 3-4oz of weight savings. Kind of diminishing returns probably.
This is based on inexpensive (but not necessarily cheap) parts selection versus some choices towards lighter parts.
Anyone here running a 10.5" PSA upper on your pistol build? I just finished an AR pistol with one and want to see how you guys like it.
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Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
I like my KAK 12.5" build. No experience with a PSA 10.5...
DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
In order for it to MD compliant, it will have to HBAR. Nobody ever said getting what you want was going to be inexpensive. Sometimes you have to look at it and say "I want it this way, and will not accept anything less.". That is when you buckle down and spend the money for it. Lord only knows how many times I've looked at it the same way you have.
If you are dead set on the retro build, just do it.
Specifically their upper? None. I do have a Anderson receiver with a classic firearms 10.5" M4 profile barrel on my AR pistol and it shoots pretty nice. With a 4MOA red dot I am getting 2.5" groups at 50yds off bags and with BUIS I can get that down to about 2". If I swapped to a finer front post and something like some 64gr gold dots or 69gr SMK I might be able to shrink that Some more.
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