The Official C&R Bubbafication Porn Thread

stu929 said:

Went with the rust blue to try it. If I botch it I will either park it or cerakote it but I have seen so many good rust blue jobs I had to try it.

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What was the name of that de-rusting solution you used to strip it?

iH8DemLibz said:

What was the name of that de-rusting solution you used to strip it?

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Evaporust. Amazing stuff! picked it up at autozone.
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Thanks.

iH8DemLibz said:

Thanks.

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It's easy on your hands too so you dont have to deal with heavy gloves. Don't put anything thats blued in it as it will strip bluing also.

I'm at 5 rust sessions... Not sure how many more I want to do, I really like the dark almost black look but if I want to keep going need to hit the store almost out of distilled water.

Here's what we have so far...
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I'm thinking darker to pick up the dark veining in the grips.

stu929 said:

It's easy on your hands too so you dont have to deal with heavy gloves. Don't put anything thats blued in it as it will strip bluing also.

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This brings me to a public service announcement.

When working with Formby's finish remover, be careful.

If you have to take a leak, WASH YOUR HANDS FIRST with SOAP and WATER!!!

I thought just wiping them off some would be enough to get me through the 15 second process. It's not.....

I woke up the next morning and "HE" was all puffed up and purple and crusty and sore. No warnings on the back of the can or MDS sheets on this.

This concludes my public service announcement.

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my finished product. I believe I did a total of 8 cycles.

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Wow, that turned out GREAT! I'm going to have to try that sometime. I know it takes quite a while to do, but looks worth it. Nice job

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Do you have a product and/or set of instructions you can link to on that rust blue job?

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That little 1911 project really turned out well!

toolness1 said:

Wow, that turned out GREAT! I'm going to have to try that sometime. I know it takes quite a while to do, but looks worth it. Nice job

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Honestly what took the most time was the metal prep as this pistol was pretty rusted to start.

As far as the actual blueing of the pistol it was easier than I thought it would be.

Supplies needed -

Stainless Steel pot ( For boiling process go to the good will and get a cheap stainless pot)
Rubber Gloves ( Will use a handful of these )
Rust/Blue remover ( to get all of the old finish off Naval Jelly can work as well. I used Evaporust and combinations of sand paper finishing with 320 grit as recommended. If you go with a much higher grit it will get a mirror finish which is not what I was looking for)
Carding brushes or carding wheel
Lee Wilson Express Blue
Acetone
Brake Cleaner
Cotton balls ( will use a handful of these)
Distilled water (Must be distilled)
Baking Soda (To neutralize bluing at last step)
Tongs
Oil/Lubericant for final stage ( I used Mobil 1) some people use CLP/BLO any good oil should work. I have hear something like BLO can get gummy though.

Whenever handling parts use your gloves to prevent oils on your hands from getting on the metal. I had a spot or two I must have touched I caught after the first cycle I degreased it and it blended in well but always look for areas oil may be leaching or if you touch it with your hand as it will not rust like the rest of the pistol.

1. Degreasing and cleaning, oil is your enemy if it wont rust it wont take color. Must get all oil off the pistol before starting. Spray all parts with brake cleaner.
1A. Acetone soak 30 minutes
1B. Hot water and dish soap 20 minutes (Remove and let dry, again I used the toaster over, compressed air works as does a hair dryer)
2. Warm the pistol up and apply an even coat of Express Blue.
3. Let sit to develope a nice coat of red rust 10-20 minutes ( I placed it in a toaster over on 150 to help the process)
4. Boil in pot of distilled water 8-10 minutes ( Turns the red rust to black )
5. Remove parts and card them ( Some use a carding wheel, I got two brushed, strips of denim also work well for some small areas)
6. Repeat steps 2-5 until you get the desired color you like ( each cycle it will get a little harder to rust or take a little longer, but it will also get darker.
7. Once the desired color is reached submerge the parts in water and baking soda mix to neutralize the Wilson Rust solution then rinse out with water after soak ( I left mine for 15 min some say an hour )
8. Apply oil ( Again instructions vary some say an hour some say overnight, I wanted to make sure mine did not get gummy though this is unlikely with Mobil 1)
9. Reassemble and enjoy your work!

Now as a note if at any point during the process you see a spot not rusting when you repeat the cycle you can degrease it again and I would recommend it if theres a spot not rusting. I had that exact thing happen in two spots and I used some denatured alcohol and soaked it and wiped it down and the next cycle it rusted better. Luckily it blended well and you really can't tell.

I know this sounds like a lot of work it honestly wasn't that bad I'm just trying to be as detailed as possible so that if you try it you know what to expect.

I may put a write up in the pistol section for so people can use the into just in case they are debating a rehab. After doing this and seeing how well it went I really want to rehab an old Mossberg pump I have but I need to find a tank big enough to boil the barrel. When I do it will probably be getting an overhaul.

Very nice work.

Thanks again!

I had a few inquiries so I ended up redoing the write up and posted a tutorial hopefully I didnt miss anything

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=149932

Hey Stu - While it's not original, it sure looks a lot better than what Sarco did/had done to the ones that they imported last.

Thanks for the writeup! Doest sound too bad, really.
Seems like acetone should be strong enough that you shouldn't really need the brake cleaner before it, but with degreasing its always better to do too much vs not enough!

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Machodoc said:

Hey Stu - While it's not original, it sure looks a lot better than what Sarco did/had done to the ones that they imported last.

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I was concerned I wouldn't be able to get the import stamp off, I was ecstatic when that was gone!

I also kept all the factory parts just in case. Part of me wants another to learn to park but with how well this turned out i really want to do another!

Bubba is no friend of mine and he'll never rub off on me. I'll never consider purchasing a firearm that bubba had his hands on.

I bought a M1 carbine that had the ears cut off the front sight, the sling swivel had been cut (this was the worst and broke my heart..type 2 are going for alot now a days) and the rear sight had some kind of bubba'ed peice of metal attached for the sight V.

Here is the only pic i have of the rifle before i bought a original rear sight, aftermarket sling swivel and original N marked front sight. I paid 550 and put in about 100. she is a tack driver.


before and after pics.

falconguy said:

Bubba is no friend of mine and he'll never rub off on me. I'll never consider purchasing a firearm that bubba had his hands on.

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If you are a handy person and you know your way around guns, a Bubba piece can be saved and brought back to life.

Krags are my favorite Bubba guns. Hands down the finest and smoothest bolt action rifle ever made for the US military.

And Bubba got ahold of a lot of them.