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Old December 28th, 2019, 12:07 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT468 View Post
I'd be curious to see how that turned out.
It is a very long rifle. It is hard to capture the whole thing with enough detail.

The dye that I used was Behlen Solar-lux NGR dye stain. It is an alcohol base dye that I found very easy to work with.

I did a layer of American walnut. Sanded it down and then did a layer of medium brown. I did not dilute it.

The last piece of scrap wood shows just a few of the color combos I tried. You can see combining colors makes a big difference. Unfortunately I donít remember at this point which is which.







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Old December 28th, 2019, 02:25 PM #22
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you are welcome to try these
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Old December 28th, 2019, 07:11 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doco Overboard View Post
No question if the wood is damaged and has dark areas prior to the stain the stain will not magically fix that or unremoved varnish you will get the blotchy results in your leather dye pic.
I'm guessing your oil pics are hand rubbed BLO pics ? The M14/M1A pic is pretty but I'm guessing It's not a Home Depot Minwax oil stain but just a hand rubbed BLO finish ?
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Old December 29th, 2019, 10:51 AM #24
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M1a is oil based but mixed with more than one color to get a nice red from Tru value. Leather dye pic is a c stock with a lot of original and new dirt in it. Some of it's probably pine tar from the sticks you get at a baseball shop.
I use Raw linseed oil, sometimes BLo sometimes BLo with driers depends on the wood and what its for.
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Old December 29th, 2019, 11:37 AM #25
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I always liked Chestnut ridge alcohol based military gun stock stain.

Goes on nice with cotton balls and dries up quickly, and accepts linseed/Tung oil well.
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Old January 1st, 2020, 08:46 PM #26
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Go to the CPM site there is a a lot of information in using dyes for finishing gun stocks. My best result were using Ritt clothing dye purchases at Walmart or Joann Fabrics and pure alcohol.
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Old January 2nd, 2020, 05:44 PM #27
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I appreciate all the replies and input. Haven't been able to log on for the past couple days to take a look but noticed quiet a few shades I'd like to duplicate. Hopefully can get some workspace freed up to get moving on some stock projects. Contemplated trying my hand at adding some tiger or flame striping with a torch or heat gun on some of my spare walnut M14 stocks prior working on the finish. Different topic though and wouldn't attempt on the birch stocks unless it turns out really nice on the more common expendable ones.
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Old January 2nd, 2020, 06:19 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balzer94 View Post
Iíve just recently dyed a curly maple flintlock stock. I purchased my dyes from a woodcraft in Rockville. I found solar-lux very easy to work with.
great stuff made by Behlen Industrial finishes used to be a supplier in Rockville. You can also spray it for a more transparent look add it to clear then spray. if something is to red dust it with green this will give you a brown like walnut your in charge but be careful it doesn't take much
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Old January 2nd, 2020, 06:26 PM #29
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I mix alcohol and Trans Tint Dyes which is a concentrated dye solution. I use several different colors of the dyes and mix my own concoction to get the color I want.
Its not cheap but I do a lot of stocks
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Old January 11th, 2020, 09:12 PM #30
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When I got my first Mauser, the stock was almost black.

I wanted a good-looking stock, and as I bought it, it was not!

Read everything I could on getting the red shellac and gunk off of/out of the stock.

After stripping the shellac and multiple cleanings, it was ready to be finished.
(Formula 409 and Easy Off Oven Cleaner, along with "Whiting" from Brownell's got the stock in really good shape!)

No stain. No 'dye'.
No sandpaper. Gray Scotchbrite pads only.
Multiple hand-rubbed coats of Danish Oil.
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Dealing with stuff that can cause catastrophic failure in your firearms, and injury or death to you and those in close proximity. I treat every step as if my life depends on it.
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