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Old June 11th, 2017, 06:25 PM #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sticky View Post
Pretty work! Well done!!

It's hard to tell from your pic, but one thing to check is the slide stop spring. It is tricky to get it fully inserted into the little groove in the frame. Is the front section of the spring flush or below the frame on either side (fully down into the groove)??

I modified my first one, but since then I have done another and helped someone with theirs and it takes a small punch (3/32" is what I used) and just hand pressure on the spring, just behind the right angle bend where it fits in the frame. Remove the slide stop and lift the rear of the spring up a little with one finger and use the punch to 'press' the spring all the way in. When it's all the way seated, the spring will be flush or below the frame on the front of the spring. If it's not fully inserted, the front of the spring will stick up a little into the barrel channel and the action spring can hang up on it.
I had some question/issue with it. It appears to be properly inserted (gives positive pressure to the slide stop) but it did seem easy to insert just by placing it in.

I will double check it. It isn't giving me priblems at the moment.

All guns are machines and machines need lubrication. I'll check out you post.

Thanks!

These seem easier than the AR15 lowers- but the upper is just as expensive. Ugh.
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Old June 11th, 2017, 06:32 PM #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whistlersmother View Post
I had some question/issue with it. It appears to be properly inserted (gives positive pressure to the slide stop) but it did seem easy to insert just by placing it in.

I will double check it. It isn't giving me priblems at the moment.

All guns are machines and machines need lubrication. I'll check out you post.

Thanks!

These seem easier than the AR15 lowers- but the upper is just as expensive. Ugh.
It's not all the way inserted... it will just lay down in there and function, but.... if any part of the spring in front of the slide stop is protruding into the barrel channel at all, the action spring can rub on it... if you work the slide a bunch of times, it will actually start to polish a spot on it... ask me how I know... lol

The first one I did, I cut a little off the spring to get it below the barrel channel. It works fine, but it wasn't the correct way to do it. It takes some effort and you have to be careful not to bend the spring, but a small punch pushing on the front of it, as close to the front 'corner' of it (for lack of a better word, the section where it bends down into the frame slot and inserts) as you can, so you don't bend it, it will actually fit all the way down in the groove and be below the barrel channel.

My first one was as you are describing and that's where I found the issue to be. There is another Poly80 thread around here, some of us posted about this on either this thread or the other one.

That will help you and lubrication. The Glock does not need much, only a few drops of oil are needed.
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Old June 11th, 2017, 10:02 PM #283
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Thanks for all the tips!

Just checked the slide lock spring - it's sticking up and not properly seated. Tackle that in the next few days - not too worried since I've got to find time for the range anyways.
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Old June 13th, 2017, 08:23 AM #284
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The slide will lap in to the rails eventually. The rails might not be 100% aligned on a fresh build since there is some slop on the hand drilled pin holes.

These Combat Armory slides seem to be pretty cheap at $190 for a stripped slide milled with serrations and for sights, or $270 with an OEM barrel. You can get a takeoff barrel on a forum for $50 or so to drive the cost down further. I added up the cost of the internal parts if you buy straight from Glock and it's $56 for the upper parts except sights and $37 for the lower parts except for the locking block. If you want to do it on the cheap, you could get plastic sights for $7 or non-illuminated steel sights for $25 (night sights are $57) from them. Add a $70 80% frame, and you can do a Glock build for a hair over $400.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Co...3D182614029957
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Combat-Armor...cAAOSwXY5ZOtQ-
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Old July 18th, 2017, 09:51 AM #285
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I completed my G-17 build last night and am very pleased with the result. I used the Polymer 80 frame, a Swenson slide, a slightly used Lone Wolf barrel, and all new Glock internal parts in both the slide and lower. I have ordered a Wolff competition spring kit to lighten the 6 pound trigger pull a little, and picked up 3, 17 round mags from outside of this commie lovin' state. My total cost was $485 including the mags and all shipping costs.

My satisfaction is that the People's Republic of Maryland did not get a single penny in taxes and I have once again, avoided the hassle and extortion known as the HQL.

I have made a couple of observations while reading through the posts in this thread.

1. The term "plastic" is misused and misunderstood by some. Polymer is not plastic in the traditional sense and is actually a very strong material. Glock has passed tests where 10,000 rounds have been fired from the same gun without damaging the rails or failures. This is why law enforcement uses them. They are durable and very reliable! Now if you throw it out of car window while in a high speed chase, it may very well be destroyed but this is not something most of us will ever do.

2. "The slide will cut into the rails." This may be true if you do a poor job of cutting them. If you remove more material than necessary or do not cut them squarely, then the slide will do more damage than you did when cutting them. It is important to finish the rails correctly. Put some oil on some very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper and use it to polish the rails after cutting. I used 3000 grit. A smooth surface here will be have less friction and therefore less chance of wearing as some have claimed. If your slide cuts into the rails, blame yourself, not the material or design!

My new G-17 has passed all function tests, and was test fired successfully. It seems to shoot very well and cycles perfectly. I am planning some range time for Saturday after I install the new springs later this week.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wfwoyt6663...22.15.jpg?dl=0
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Old July 24th, 2017, 10:16 AM #286
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OMG! You got a mag holding more than 10 rds! Oh the humanity! You just gave Frosh a nasty tinge in frosh hole!

I will eventually get somewhere to pick up some larger capacity mags. I ordered the ten with the parts kit so I'd at least have something to test with. This is my first glock (-enstein).
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Old July 27th, 2017, 02:42 PM #287
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Now they've shown a full picture of their new PF940v2 revised full size frame. It will no longer feel like a brick.

https://www.facebook.com/Polymer80In...type=3&theater
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 02:59 PM #288
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Yup and ordered one via Brownells... which will then allow me to mod the grip on one of the other originals.

I absolutely loved the compacts I got, the new one looks to be the same only larger... be nice to have a younger bigger brother
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Old August 15th, 2017, 03:07 PM #289
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$485 seems like a decent deal for a build.

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