1911 DIY Mods Reasonable ?

DucksRFlyin · Mar 24, 2019

I am fairly good as a 'shade-tree' gunsmith / repairer / modifier and have a basic shop ( no real machining tools or anything like that - yet).. I have a friend that wants to come over and get my help installing a couple aftermarket mods to his 1911 ( SA).. Beavertail, amb-safety, extended mag release etc..
It seems based on online comments, the extended mag releases are pretty much drop-in.. However I get mixed info on the beavertail and improved safety switches.. I am not afraid of a dremel tool but I am afraid of screwing something up - esp when it's not mine.

Bottom line - How truly 'drop-in' are these and what am I likely to run into ? . Any suggestions on brands based on your experiences are appreciated - there seems to be a lot of options - I am about overloaded on research with the options..

Thanks..

TheRealJimDavis · Mar 24, 2019

To do the full strip and add the parts is nbd with YouTube. After that, depends on the parts and the fit. They seem g2g,nbd. If not, then take it and have them fitted. For the record, my thumb safetiesni always have fitted professionally cause I’m squirrely.

bpm32 · Mar 24, 2019

Thumb safety is simple if you have the 10-8 block.....it has a jig so you can keep the file cut on the safety straight (where it slips behind the sear leg). Go too far and you can usually fix it by “swelling” the tab with a hammer. You may also need to Dremel and blend the rear of the safety so it doesn’t cut into the shooter’s hand.

Mag catch is usually drop in.

The beavertail can be harrowing the first time. If you have to remove the tang on the frame just get a hardened steel jig and go to town. Impossible to mess up, but just make sure you have the right radius jig for the grip safety. The only area you have to function fit is the underside of the arm that sticks out. When the safety is disengaged (pushed in) the trigger bow just barely slips under it. When engaged, the arm blocks movement in the trigger bow. Just go slow, be careful, and make the file cuts parallel to the original geometry. If you go too far the safety won’t work properly. Blending the grip safety seems daunting the first time, then you can do it in your sleep thereafter. Knock off the hard edges on the frame with the Dremel first if they stick out, then blend the whole thing.

DucksRFlyin · Mar 24, 2019

Thanks to both of you .. based on bpm32 comments I have more youtube videos to watch before deciding to get into it.

TheRealJimDavis · Mar 24, 2019

I should’ve clarified too that whether something goes to a smith or gets Tinkered also depends on its base price and current condition. I got a grip bushing stuck one time and immediately went to a smith. It was a brand new dan Wesson. So the finish and base price meant I was gonna spend the $60 on that mistake to keep it nice.

Mark75H · Mar 24, 2019

Hold off on the Dremel, most of this work is tiny file fitting when needed. Almost nothing should need the power tool.

bpm32 · Mar 24, 2019

Mark75H said:
Hold off on the Dremel, most of this work is tiny file fitting when needed. Almost nothing should need the power tool.

Yes, thanks for pointing that out. I should have said this directly in what I wrote above—all the fitting is done with files (giant bastard file for cutting off the frame tang and smaller files for everything else). You can clean up the file cuts with stones—I use Boride Engineered AM-8 stones. The only thing you use the Dremel (or Foredom tool) for is contouring the outside of the safeties and the frame if they need it, and for light polishing. Shaping the safeties is more for comfort and looks, not function.

Magnumite · Mar 24, 2019

The .250” and .220” radius grip safeties are more forgiving to get a good tang to beavertail fit. Being a Springer (Mil Spec?) use a .220” so you can get a good blend at the top of the tang. The Wilson (and Springfield Armory) compound radius is a little more difficult to get a good fit. Also have your friend try different configurations of available grip safeties - they do make a difference.

If your friend decides on a high cut grip safety I would advise a flat mainspring housing for positive grip safety deactivation.

Also I only use the dremel to blend. I did it for a few years using only files, abrasive boards, a rasive cloth, and a couple grits of fine lapping compound.

1911 DIY Mods Reasonable ?

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