Slowhand
Pre-Banned
FYI, the ZEV slides come with the channel liner installed. I noticed the one I was trying to install didn't want to start. A closer look... and a google.
the best deal right now seems to be the brownells slides. They have them on sale right now for 160 with a 20 dollar gift card included. With the gift card and a 15 dollar off coupon the effective cost was $126
Where did you find it on their site. I looked but haven’t been successful finding it..
So I decided to stamp a serial number on the metal plate with the Harbor Freight 1/8 inch stamp set. Mostly to differentiate mine from a nearly identical build a friend is making.
I practiced for about an hour stamping a steel plate meant for joining 2x4s until I got the result I wanted. I used a steel vice body as a metal backing for the stamping. My Serial No was going to be xxxN02. I taped a Craftsman socket under the frame S/N plate to provide a solid base and started stamping middle out with the N. The N was barely visible. I moved on to the zero and struck that multiple times and somehow managed to strike a bunch of 0's offset a bit vertically - Argh! I continued to the 2 and struck it a few times and it was perfect. I went back to overstrike the N and the metal dented in with a barely detectable N. I then gave up with these stamps.
Bottom line: The PFC940C metal doesn't handle stamping with a punch well. For me, it does give me a unique frame, so in that way it worked out. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend the hammer and punch SerNo route.
S I figure, if the legislature wants it back, I only have to turn in the hunk of plastic and can have a whole bunch of spare parts for my Glock, right?
I was wondering. If one was to purchase an OEM complete slide, would the S/N stamped into the barrel and slide be sufficient? I know it is not the frame, but it is a s/n...
So I decided to stamp a serial number on the metal plate with the Harbor Freight 1/8 inch stamp set. Mostly to differentiate mine from a nearly identical build a friend is making.
I practiced for about an hour stamping a steel plate meant for joining 2x4s until I got the result I wanted. I used a steel vice body as a metal backing for the stamping. My Serial No was going to be xxxN02. I taped a Craftsman socket under the frame S/N plate to provide a solid base and started stamping middle out with the N. The N was barely visible. I moved on to the zero and struck that multiple times and somehow managed to strike a bunch of 0's offset a bit vertically - Argh! I continued to the 2 and struck it a few times and it was perfect. I went back to overstrike the N and the metal dented in with a barely detectable N. I then gave up with these stamps.
Bottom line: The PFC940C metal doesn't handle stamping with a punch well. For me, it does give me a unique frame, so in that way it worked out. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend the hammer and punch SerNo route.
the best deal right now seems to be the brownells slides. They have them on sale right now for 160 with a 20 dollar gift card included. With the gift card and a 15 dollar off coupon the effective cost was $126
I've heard good reviews on rock slide usa slides and they are way more affordable
I got my slide here and am very happy. The caveat is they have really tight tolerances and are ceracoated. I had to add a smidge of lapping compound to the rails and rack the slide a hundred times or so, then remove the lapping compound. To me, the hour's extra work was worth the hundreds I saved. They do a lot of their business on eBay, but their website gives more options.
https://rockslideusa.com/
But how would the legislature know you had it? That's the entire point.
I bought a Dremel engraving tool, I've been practicing on spare plastic, but I might try using it on mine when I get good/brave enough.
So I decided to stamp a serial number on the metal plate with the Harbor Freight 1/8 inch stamp set. Mostly to differentiate mine from a nearly identical build a friend is making.
I practiced for about an hour stamping a steel plate meant for joining 2x4s until I got the result I wanted. I used a steel vice body as a metal backing for the stamping. My Serial No was going to be xxxN02. I taped a Craftsman socket under the frame S/N plate to provide a solid base and started stamping middle out with the N. The N was barely visible. I moved on to the zero and struck that multiple times and somehow managed to strike a bunch of 0's offset a bit vertically - Argh! I continued to the 2 and struck it a few times and it was perfect. I went back to overstrike the N and the metal dented in with a barely detectable N. I then gave up with these stamps.
Bottom line: The PFC940C metal doesn't handle stamping with a punch well. For me, it does give me a unique frame, so in that way it worked out. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend the hammer and punch SerNo route.
I bought a Dremel engraving tool, I've been practicing on spare plastic, but I might try using it on mine when I get good/brave enough.
I use the Dremel engraver to put my name on just about everything I own. After 20+ years of putting my name and DL # on tools with it, I'm pretty sure I could put a legible number (Maybe "NSN" just to be a smartass) in that slot. However, this may be easier to control for such a tight area:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/General-To...ordless-Carving-Engraving-Rotary-Tool/3361328
You should still practice a little. Because it is rotary, it tries to walk a little, especially if you apply too much pressure. With a light touch, I think it would do just fine. It's a handy tool for marking things that may be too vibration sensitive for the Dremel. Every once in a while they go on sale for $10.
I was wondering. If one was to purchase an OEM complete slide, would the S/N stamped into the barrel and slide be sufficient? I know it is not the frame, but it is a s/n...
I use the Dremel engraver to put my name on just about everything I own. After 20+ years of putting my name and DL # on tools with it, I'm pretty sure I could put a legible number (Maybe "NSN" just to be a smartass) in that slot. However, this may be easier to control for such a tight area:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/General-To...ordless-Carving-Engraving-Rotary-Tool/3361328
You should still practice a little. Because it is rotary, it tries to walk a little, especially if you apply too much pressure. With a light touch, I think it would do just fine. It's a handy tool for marking things that may be too vibration sensitive for the Dremel. Every once in a while they go on sale for $10.
Woah, I'll have to keep an eye out for that. Thanks!
Because maybe I bought one online...with a CC...and blabbed about it on a forum.
QUESTION: I have a drill press, but my skills are minimal, especially in a milling operation.
I see videos of folks carving out the excess or using a Dremel. My Dremel skills are OK and it looks doable. Is this a reasonable path? Thanks.
It can be done with just a Dremel. Of course I'm completely talking about in theory.
QUESTION: I have a drill press, but my skills are minimal, especially in a milling operation.
I see videos of folks carving out the excess or using a Dremel. My Dremel skills are OK and it looks doable. Is this a reasonable path? Thanks.
The $15 off coupon code is "NCS" and here is the link:
https://www.brownells.com/handgun-p...3-glock-9mm-with-20-gift-card-prod109622.aspx