7.62 54r

Allium · Feb 11, 2008

how can you tell if a 7.62 54r is corrosive? I saw 3 types on aim - russian, hungarian and bulgarian - 2 of 3 mention berdan primers.

Numidian · Feb 11, 2008

It's safest to just assume it's corrosive if it's surplus...

novus collectus · Feb 11, 2008

Numidian said:
It's safest to just assume it's corrosive if it's surplus...

I agree.

If the powder is not corrosive, then the primer probably is. If both are listed as non corrosive, then always assume it is to some degree at least.

I have fired some ammo that is not very corrosive before, but still was to some degree at least.

Lambo · Feb 11, 2008

Any East Bloc Military Surplus Ammo is corrosive! The only 7.62x54R that isn't is the New Market Military Spec Loads........Prvi Partisan, Wolf, FNM & if you can still find it Winchester Redbox.

Allium · Feb 11, 2008

big difference in price - any tips on where the best non-corrosive? since the m44 is in the mail and the next step is of course to fire it

novus collectus · Feb 11, 2008

Allium said:
big difference in price - any tips on where the best non-corrosive? since the m44 is in the mail and the next step is of course to fire it

Best tip......buy the corrosive ammo and after firing it and before you go home, spray some windex down the barell to help neutralise the acids in the corrosive fouling. $.09 of Windex is a shitload cheaper than higher cost of supposedly non corrosive ammo.
When you get home, or the next day, clean the barrel, the chamber and the boltface. Not that big of a deal and problems addressed.

Corrosive ammo for the M44 is only a problem if you leave your rifle uncleaned for a while......I speak from experience.

smores · Feb 12, 2008

Yeah, just keep it clean and enjoy the cheap surplus ammo! I just spent a while cleaning out the bore of my M91/30. I thought it was much cleaner upon first glance... I was wrong!

HoChiWaWa · Feb 12, 2008

I run a boresnake of sweets down mine a couple times and wipe the boltface with a soaked patch before I even leave the range, it doesn't take much time and makes it so if I'm lazy when I get home I don't damage my Mosin

but, yeah, buy the corrosive, the new production stuff is way overpriced.

slayr15 · Feb 12, 2008

to check if ammo is corosive pull the bullet and powder out of the round find some mild steel and fire the primerd casing a few inches away from the steel if its rusts in a few days the primers are corosive .

gunconnection · Feb 12, 2008

watch out for windex!

novus collectus said:
Best tip......buy the corrosive ammo and after firing it and before you go home, spray some windex down the barell to help neutralise the acids in the corrosive fouling. $.09 of Windex is a shitload cheaper than higher cost of supposedly non corrosive ammo.
When you get home, or the next day, clean the barrel, the chamber and the boltface. Not that big of a deal and problems addressed.

Corrosive ammo for the M44 is only a problem if you leave your rifle uncleaned for a while......I speak from experience.

Windex contains ammonia! Be careful! It can cause a bore to rust and it can also harm bluing but, it works really good for cleaning out lead fouling and corrosive fouling. Just be sure to run oil behind it. Good old fashion nitro solvent or something like it works good too. :thumbsup:

coinboy · Feb 12, 2008

You guys clean your Mosin's? I just buy another when my rusts up! :lol2:

OKAY, I'm just joking, but for like $90 a rifle I would buy a shooter and a saver. Just my oppinion.

Anyhoo, The way to tell if ammo is corrosive is to take the bullet out of the casing, then empty out the powder. All that is left of the original bullet should be the brass and the primer. Now take two polished sheets of steel. Set one in the area you plan to store both sheets. This is the control sheet. After this experiment this sheet should still be shiny. Take the other sheet and fire the primer at it, this is the primer sheet. Leave the primer sheet with the control. If the primer sheet rusts and the control sheet doesn't then you have corrosive ammo. If both the control and the primer sheets both rust then you had a bad experiment and have to retry it. If neither sheet rusts then you have non-corrosive ammo.

houserocker · Feb 12, 2008

How often do you guys clean your guns anyway? I was so indoctrinated by my Dad that I clean the hell out of anything I shoot even if it's only a few shots.

Garand1957 · Feb 12, 2008

ALL military surplus 7.62x54r is corrosive ! Windex is mostly water and for the record ammonia does not neutralize the corrosive salts/acids left from firing old surplus ammo. If it did Butches Bore Shine would be the No.1 product to use. Not to mention Windex has very little ammonia and certainly no window cleaner has enough ammonia to break down lead fouling all that is just a popular myth that is continuously told over and over on dozens of gun forums until somehow it became truth :lol2:

. You would do just as well to flush out your bore with hot water. I use WWII G.I. Bore cleaner myself.... http://cgi.ebay.com/WWII-Era-Rifle-...oryZ4721QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Got about 5 cans left

.

coinboy · Feb 12, 2008

houserocker said:
How often do you guys clean your guns anyway? I was so indoctrinated by my Dad that I clean the hell out of anything I shoot even if it's only a few shots.

I like to try and clean them after ever shoot, but somwtimes it doesn't happen (even with the corrosive ammo). I will definetally clean then if they have the slightest rust. I always like to have a light coat of oil. Some gus soak it up while others don't need much. It really depends on the gun really.

G O B · Feb 18, 2008

I clean with Hoppe's #9 and store with a good coat of synthetic motor oil on all metal and espically in the bore. No matter how clean you thought the bore was, it will allways amaze how dirty the first patch will be when you pull the gun out of the safe and get it ready to shoot. I consider all comblock ammo to be corrosive. The MN's have lived with it for 100 + years. Not a problem, just clean it after shooting.

smores · Feb 19, 2008

G O B said:
I clean with Hoppe's #9 and store with a good coat of synthetic motor oil on all metal and espically in the bore. No matter how clean you thought the bore was, it will allways amaze how dirty the first patch will be when you pull the gun out of the safe and get it ready to shoot. I consider all comblock ammo to be corrosive. The MN's have lived with it for 100 + years. Not a problem, just clean it after shooting.

+1, when I got my M44 I must have run 30 patches through the barrel going between Sweet's 7.62, Break-Free Bore Paste, and Hoppe's #9. The patches would start coming clean once any given solvent dried up, but as soon as a new solvent was applied, the patches were coming out green/blue/black again.

I just said "what the hell" after a while. I've shot probably 50 rounds through it so far and it hasn't blown up so I guess I'm good!

G O B · Feb 23, 2008

I would not overclean a MN barell. They were made for hard use, and they were factory re arsenalled. If it improved the accuracy or extended barell, or storage life, they would have cleaned them a lot better.
It would be interesting to see if the accuracy changes
after cathodically cleaning one.

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