Another question for gunsmiths

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  • Silverlode

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 16, 2010
    4,797
    Frederick
    Preface - Replacement of 1911 trigger; Springfield Armory TRP. Replacing stock trigger with Caspian Trik-Shot trigger. I have big hands and wanted to try a longer trigger.

    Disclaimer - I'm not to cheap to have a gunsmith do this, in fact I would prefer it. However, I am trying to educate myself to some of the intricacies of my preferred tools in case of emergencies for self reliance. So I appreciate your advice!!!

    1: Is there a trick to fitting the trigger bow properly for width. Fitting the shoe was no problem. A couple of passes with a file top and bottom and a light polish and it fits like a glove. The bow on the other hand is causing me some grief. I can't find the sweet spot. If I compress it enough so that it moves freely within the frame, then a magazine catches it when inserted. Not enough to prevent full insertion, but I get a little click on the way in that certainly doesn't feel right. Is there a trick to getting it perfect or am I going to have to just keep tearing it back down and making minor adjustments?


    Thanks, your experience is appreciated!!!

    Edit: Strike that second question. Found a previous post from Clandestine.
     

    smores

    Creepy-Ass Cracker
    Feb 27, 2007
    13,493
    Falls Church
    Preface - Replacement of 1911 trigger; Springfield Armory TRP. Replacing stock trigger with Caspian Trik-Shot trigger. I have big hands and wanted to try a longer trigger.

    Disclaimer - I'm not to cheap to have a gunsmith do this, in fact I would prefer it. However, I am trying to educate myself to some of the intricacies of my preferred tools in case of emergencies for self reliance. So I appreciate your advice!!!

    1: Is there a trick to fitting the trigger bow properly for width. Fitting the shoe was no problem. A couple of passes with a file top and bottom and a light polish and it fits like a glove. The bow on the other hand is causing me some grief. I can't find the sweet spot. If I compress it enough so that it moves freely within the frame, then a magazine catches it when inserted. Not enough to prevent full insertion, but I get a little click on the way in that certainly doesn't feel right. Is there a trick to getting it perfect or am I going to have to just keep tearing it back down and making minor adjustments?


    Thanks, your experience is appreciated!!!

    Edit: Strike that second question. Found a previous post from Clandestine.

    DO NOT COMPRESS THE TRIGGER BOW. There are anvils out there to get it back to the correct shape.

    If your trigger bow is dragging on the frame there are files and stones to correct that. If it's anything more than a light drag I would check the drawings in Kuhnhausen's Vol. II of the 1911 Shop Manual. I have fitted quite a few triggers and have never had to fit anything other than the height of the trigger shoe itself to the window of the frame to allow it to protrude and travel smoothly into the trigger guard. There is usually a tiny bit of play side to side anyway, which you want. Make sure the corners of the slots don't have burrs. I have used several Caspian Parts and I have never had issues with them, personally.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,032
    Elkton, MD
    You want to slightly bevel the bottom ledges of the trigger bow, like you would flare a mag well, but only very slightly. You dont want to completely remove the bottom shelf.

    Once this is done paint the bow inner surfaces and bottom of the bow qith Dykem or Magic Marker and install the trigger. Insert the mag and work the trigger. Disassemble and see if there is any heavey wear on the painted areas. If you do you use a diamond file to remove smal amounts of metal. Repaint and repeat till you get no binding. This is deliicate because you dont have much to cut before weakening the bow.

    I made a bow stretcher with an old mag if heavvy internal binding occurs, once this is done you usually have to slim the outer walls of the bow beacuse they will bind on the frame recesses.
     

    Silverlode

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 16, 2010
    4,797
    Frederick
    DO NOT COMPRESS THE TRIGGER BOW. There are anvils out there to get it back to the correct shape.

    If your trigger bow is dragging on the frame there are files and stones to correct that. If it's anything more than a light drag I would check the drawings in Kuhnhausen's Vol. II of the 1911 Shop Manual. I have fitted quite a few triggers and have never had to fit anything other than the height of the trigger shoe itself to the window of the frame to allow it to protrude and travel smoothly into the trigger guard. There is usually a tiny bit of play side to side anyway, which you want. Make sure the corners of the slots don't have burrs. I have used several Caspian Parts and I have never had issues with them, personally.

    You want to slightly bevel the bottom ledges of the trigger bow, like you would flare a mag well, but only very slightly. You dont want to completely remove the bottom shelf.

    Once this is done paint the bow inner surfaces and bottom of the bow qith Dykem or Magic Marker and install the trigger. Insert the mag and work the trigger. Disassemble and see if there is any heavey wear on the painted areas. If you do you use a diamond file to remove smal amounts of metal. Repaint and repeat till you get no binding. This is deliicate because you dont have much to cut before weakening the bow.

    I made a bow stretcher with an old mag if heavvy internal binding occurs, once this is done you usually have to slim the outer walls of the bow beacuse they will bind on the frame recesses.


    Thank you both for your responses.

    Upon initial installation, the bow was already compressed too far. I was very careful, I did not do it while fitting the shoe. It either came from the factory that way or perhaps was compressed during shipping. It was shipped in a bubble wrap envelope along with some other things, so it certainly could have seen pressure during transit that wouldn't have occured had it been packed in a box. Once the shoe fitting was completed and I inserted it into the frame, the bow was compressed enough that magazines couldn't even be inserted. They would hit the bow and stop. At that point I had to start monkeying around and try to apply just a slight stretch. I think I have it pretty close, but not perfect. Beveling the bottom edge was something I hadn't considered, that sounds like it should help.
     

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