AR 5.56 chambering but not firing
- Thread starter PorP
- Start date
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Just want to guess as to final asnwer: The pistol gas system being rather violent is causing the disconnector to not catch the hammer, either due to its geometry being slightly off or the disconnector spring being too weak. have you checked to see if the hammer is leaving any marks on the disconnector beside the engagement points? interested to see what the fix will be/ what the issue was.
- Apr 16, 2017
- 172
I had the same issue with my Rise armament trigger. I emailed rise and they sent me pictures on where I should file down the hammer, where it touches the disconnector. It took a couple of minutes and not it works fine. Hopefully yours is an easy fix.
rockstarr
Major Deplorable
yeah, I would have told them, I didn't buy this trigger to have to work on it before using it. You fix it. smh
rockstarr
Major Deplorable
eh, i'm assuming you're talking about the alg act ? the alg qms trigger is junk imo, the one that came on my barrett rec 7 was worse than 3/4's of the standard milspec triggers that came on my other rifles.
to anyone wondering, Save, wait for a sale, use the 15 dollars off plus free shipping code at brownells, and get the geissele ssa for 170 dollars.
probably the single best upgrade ive added to any of my rifles, hands down
1time
Ultimate Member
Yes, I was referring to the act. The Geissele is a better trigger than most.
ralph.mclean
GOC (Grumpy Old Cop)
Check for leaks in the gas system.
RNB3
Member
FCG springs
Not sure if this'll be helpful. You may have already tried this. At the range a few years back, I was mighty proud of an AR build I had just completed. Eager to test fire it. I put a magazine in it, pulled back the charging handle and seated the first round. Long story short, I had in my hastiness, forgot to properly lube my firearm. It would fire a few rounds then stop. After lubing it, it certainly cycled better, but after a start and stop 30 rounds, it started to fail on reset. Needless to say, we tore it apart, almost ignoring the reset problem. I got frustrated and decided to schlep it back home to examine more closely. Once apart with the FCG I started looking at the springs. First problem, I dropped the reset spring in upside down. Now, I always use magnifiers doing any small parts work. Second problem, I installed the trigger spring improperly. Third problem, I installed the hammer spring backwards. It's a wonder the firearm cycled at all. After rectifying these mistakes... No further problems. BTW I have KNS pins and they seem to function as they were intended. I've used them on several builds and have never had a problem. Hope this helps, if not, kindly disregard.
Not sure if this'll be helpful. You may have already tried this. At the range a few years back, I was mighty proud of an AR build I had just completed. Eager to test fire it. I put a magazine in it, pulled back the charging handle and seated the first round. Long story short, I had in my hastiness, forgot to properly lube my firearm. It would fire a few rounds then stop. After lubing it, it certainly cycled better, but after a start and stop 30 rounds, it started to fail on reset. Needless to say, we tore it apart, almost ignoring the reset problem. I got frustrated and decided to schlep it back home to examine more closely. Once apart with the FCG I started looking at the springs. First problem, I dropped the reset spring in upside down. Now, I always use magnifiers doing any small parts work. Second problem, I installed the trigger spring improperly. Third problem, I installed the hammer spring backwards. It's a wonder the firearm cycled at all. After rectifying these mistakes... No further problems. BTW I have KNS pins and they seem to function as they were intended. I've used them on several builds and have never had a problem. Hope this helps, if not, kindly disregard.
- May 8, 2018
- 151
Gas issue
Either moved or junk in the tube.
Just my guess
Either moved or junk in the tube.
Just my guess
Maybe a bad sear and the hammer is dropping as the bolt returns to the closed position? If that's the case, it wouldn't fire.
I STILL say it's a bad sear, but it COULD be a weak spring and not holding the hammer on cock.
.
sig63
Member
Yeah this thread went waaaay longer than it needed to. It's either a broken/incorrect disconnector spring, out of spec disconnector, or incorrect sear angles. All point to the fire control group.
The reason why your trigger was firing on release/reset in the other rifle was due to--interestingly enough--the same issue. I don't know who told you it was the pins but that doesn't make much sense to me, unless they were out far enough that the trigger/hammer would be inoperable,which would be clearly visible by looking at the lower receiver.
The reason why your trigger was firing on release/reset in the other rifle was due to--interestingly enough--the same issue. I don't know who told you it was the pins but that doesn't make much sense to me, unless they were out far enough that the trigger/hammer would be inoperable,which would be clearly visible by looking at the lower receiver.
Speak with SOTAR.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
People keep offering gas system issues.
WTF??
If the rifle cycles, ejects the empty, chambers the new round, and then the trigger will not pull, HOW IS IT THE GAS SYSTEM?????
WTF??
If the rifle cycles, ejects the empty, chambers the new round, and then the trigger will not pull, HOW IS IT THE GAS SYSTEM?????
Yep, that pretty much covers the gas system I hope...... it has several 100 rounds through it, enough to guarantee the gas system works, not anywhere close to it being gummed up.
I hope it ends gas system discussion.
That's freaking funny! No one yet has named the buffer tube!
Nor the front sight post detent spring.
DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
It is either the muzzle device or the shoulder thing that goes up. One of those 2 things is the root cause of the issue.
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