AR-15 build info.

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  • drewhall

    Active Member
    May 29, 2009
    428
    Maryland
    Even if you're not building one from scratch, lots of great information here. Thanks a ton, I've been looking at triggers for a while now and you answered some of my questions.
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    Lock time is how long it is between the trigger sear's disengagement and when the firing pin strikes the primer's cup. In more simplistic terms, Lock Time equals the time, measured in milliseconds, from when the trigger is pulled until the gun fires. You really can feel this with good triggers vs. stock ones.

    Upper assembly info coming sometime today, hopefully when I break for lunch.

    :-)
     
    Last edited:

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    Awesome.... another great section. :D I feel more ignorant with every section you do. All I've ever used is just regular factory Colt stuff so I have NO idea what I like. I do both kinds of shooting, was under the impression that the 2 Stage was more for single shot marksmanship, and wouldn't do well with rapid firing. Didn't know the Single Stage upgrade existed but that sounds a little closer to the factory setting to me.

    Side note: I saw a Bushmaster's BOLT snap a few weeks ago....craziest shit I have EVER seen in an AR. The actual BOLT snapped, across where the cam pin goes through it.
     

    Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,027
    Sykesville
    Awesome.... another great section. :D I feel more ignorant with every section you do. All I've ever used is just regular factory Colt stuff so I have NO idea what I like. I do both kinds of shooting, was under the impression that the 2 Stage was more for single shot marksmanship, and wouldn't do well with rapid firing. Didn't know the Single Stage upgrade existed but that sounds a little closer to the factory setting to me.

    Side note: I saw a Bushmaster's BOLT snap a few weeks ago....craziest shit I have EVER seen in an AR. The actual BOLT snapped, across where the cam pin goes through it.

    Do you happen to know the manufacturer? Or is it was a MP inspected bolt?
     

    JeepDriver

    Self confessed gun snob
    Aug 28, 2006
    5,193
    White Marsh
    Good read.

    I have both RRA and Timney triggers. I love the RRA triggers, I have them in several of my guns. With the addition of KNS pins they are a very slick trigger.

    The only time I have had an issue was when I had an OOB discharge. I destroyed a mag, bolt and the disconnect on the trigger. Not the triggers fault. But I was able to break the trigger none the less. It didn't turn me off to them, I replaced that trigger with another RRA 2 Stage.

    The Timney is a very smooth trigger. I have it in my 20" POF/Noveske build. It's the perfect trigger for a precision gun.

    I have to agree about the POF lowers looking the best. I got lucky and only paid dealer cost for mine, but fit and finish wise I would give the $300 asking price. I have the Vltor upper on it and it is a perfect match finish wise and tight as a ducks butt fit wise.

    I have used a combination of RRA and DPMS LPK's. No complaints on either, then again I've never been to a class (yet). That opinion may change on Sunday.

    I have mainly RRA bolts in my guns. Again, no problems so far. I run my guns wet, I have ran high round counts through 2 of my rifles. The wear pattern on the bolt cam pin and bolt contact points are minimal, I guess my "if you love it lube it" philosophy is paying off.
     

    K-Romulus

    Suburban Commando
    Mar 15, 2007
    2,423
    NE MoCO
    Side note: I saw a Bushmaster's BOLT snap a few weeks ago....craziest shit I have EVER seen in an AR. The actual BOLT snapped, across where the cam pin goes through it.

    I saw a Bushmaster bolt failure where it cracked/broke around the locking lugs. A piece with two lugs came off. This was c.2005.
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    I'm doing the upper assembly section now. Jeep, Russ - I'm only going to cover complete assemblies, so if you guys want to chime in on building complete uppers, gas systems, etc - I'd love to have your input.
     

    jjbduke2004

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 19, 2008
    1,764
    Morris Oblast, NJ SSR
    I'm enjoying the thread. I've been thinking about building one myself. I want two uppers: a varminter flattop, and a service rifle.

    I can find lowers (stripped and complete) easily enough, but it seems hard to find uppers right now.

    Any comments on Stag lowers? I know they're CMT-made. The OP only mentioned their uppers and LPK's.
     

    Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,027
    Sykesville
    Stag lowers are good if you like the deers head roll mark. Are you looking for complete uppers or stripped upper receivers? Checking the EE section on Ar15.com seems to be the best way to find in-stock complete uppers right now.
     

    jjbduke2004

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 19, 2008
    1,764
    Morris Oblast, NJ SSR
    I'm looking for complete uppers. I think I can handle a stripped lower, but the uppers are intimidating me for some reason.

    I prefer to buy new from an e-tailer.

    I've had trouble navigating AR15.com* so don't frequent it much.


    *seems they want some money in order to search, or was it to see the archives, I can't remember.
     

    Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,027
    Sykesville
    All of the major e-talers are posting on the Ar15.com EE these days. They put thier in-stock offerings there first. Just go to the home page and click the EE section on the upper right. Scroll down to the uppers section of For Sale and look for what you would like. 90% of all the sellers are actual vendors and will direct you to a real e-store.

    Honestly though with the correct tools, I think building an upper is easier than building a lower.
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    I don't have any personal experience w/ Stag lowers - there's lots that I haven't tried out. I have no doubt that their lowers are good quality, though. As long as the lower is not one the three dreaded manufacturers that I mentioned, I think it's probably a good part.
     

    capTIM

    Carroll County Drunkard
    Apr 30, 2008
    456
    Sykesville
    Can anyone give me some more info on the effects of barrel length, fluting, twist rate & material. For my next ar build, I want like to put something together that would be pretty accurate.
     

    Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,027
    Sykesville
    fluting is done to keep weight down and still keep the stiffness of a heavy barrell. Length isn't really a major consideration with .223 unless you are planning on shooting extreme distances and need every FPS you can get. 1/7 or 1/8 twist is best for an precision gun. For accuracy you do not whant Chrome lined and are probably better off with SS. I just built a precision SPR upper you can check out if you whant. It's built on a 18" White Oak Stainless barrel, 1/7 twist mid length gas Wylde chamber SPR barrel. The Wylde chamber is designed for maximum accuracy while still being able to fire .556 ammo as well as .223. Here is a list of really good Ar barrel makers.

    Lilja-top notch
    Krieger-One of if not the best
    WOA-White Oak Armament- Very good barrels at very good prices. Win many competitions
    Sabre Defence- Good reputation but I have no experience
    Shillen-Good rep again no experience
    Wilson /RRA- Mine is very accurate for a cheap price
    DPMS- underrated barrels at very good prices
    Walthar Lothar- I built a precision rifle on a Superior hard blue WL blank. Very accurate so far with just a 4x scope. 2" groups at 200 yrds accurate and with a better scope I'll be shrinking that considerably this weekend.

    Many high-end barrel makes offer matching bolts to go with thier barrels. This is always the best option as the fit between the barrel extension and the bolt mean everything when it comes to getting an accurate weapon.

    For me personally Id only buy either
    Krieger
    Lilja
    WOA
    Superior
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    Tim-

    Fluting is usually for bull barrels. You probably won't need it, but it sure looks good. It's primary function is to cut down weight. Twist rates, I covered that - but if you want more detail, let me know and I'll try to explain in greater detail. Barrel length equals velocity. The longer the barrel, the more energy behind the projectile, which equates into more range.

    If you are looking for a precision upper assembly, Larue or Noveske would be perfect. It doesn't get any better than those two. If you're going to build an upper, that's a different story. I can definitely help you out, though. I went w/ an 18" barrel for my precision rig. It gives you the best of both worlds - it's still short enough for carbine type use, but a couple of inches longer for some additional velocity.
     

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    I need to dig up some research stuff that I have on my work computer....

    Colt guns from my research and experience (limited admittedly) are AMAZING based on the items you mentioned in the Uppers section. I'll have to find the links at work to post.

    Colt offers HBAR as well, and in several different twists (1:7 and 1:9 that I have seen). They are also chambered in 5.56, RRA offers the Wylde or regular .223. According to what I've seen and will post later, Colt is VASTLY superior to the other major brands, the only one that comes close is either Noveske or LaRue (can't remember).
     

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