XDM 9/40 trigger Job

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • jmira

    VA Rocks.
    Mar 25, 2009
    2,106
    Alexandria, VA
    Daniel and Michelle @ Powder Precision have been amazing dealing with me and my trigger reset problem. I sent the XDm back to them a few days ago and already have it back. I already can tell the difference by dry firing, but I will make sure on sunday at the shoot with a few 'opinions' =)

    200-300 rounds of 9mm and a few opinions will prove this trigger good or bad..
     

    boothdoc

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 23, 2008
    5,133
    Frederick county
    Daniel and Michelle @ Powder Precision have been amazing dealing with me and my trigger reset problem. I sent the XDm back to them a few days ago and already have it back. I already can tell the difference by dry firing, but I will make sure on sunday at the shoot with a few 'opinions' =)

    200-300 rounds of 9mm and a few opinions will prove this trigger good or bad..
    I ordered one for me and one for my boy the other day. I can't wait to play with them.
     

    donliv

    Active Member
    Oct 25, 2008
    499
    Bel Air
    Daniel and Michelle @ Powder Precision have been amazing dealing with me and my trigger reset problem. I sent the XDm back to them a few days ago and already have it back. I already can tell the difference by dry firing, but I will make sure on sunday at the shoot with a few 'opinions' =)

    200-300 rounds of 9mm and a few opinions will prove this trigger good or bad..

    I will try and hook up with you at the shoot. I would like to give that trigger a try if you dont mind.
     

    jmira

    VA Rocks.
    Mar 25, 2009
    2,106
    Alexandria, VA
    Daniel and Michelle @ Powder Precision have been amazing dealing with me and my trigger reset problem. I sent the XDm back to them a few days ago and already have it back. I already can tell the difference by dry firing, but I will make sure on sunday at the shoot with a few 'opinions' =)

    200-300 rounds of 9mm and a few opinions will prove this trigger good or bad..

    put another 200 ( total ~500 since getting it back ) rounds through today without a hiccup.. I really do recommend their work. they also made this right which is a big +1 and :thumbsup: in my book.
     

    Draven451

    Member
    Oct 3, 2009
    3
    My PRP Install

    Hello alucard0822

    Thanks for a great walk-thru and good pictures detailing the procedures. I posted this on XDTalk and wanted to see if maybe Alucard0822 could help me or if someone else on the board might have some input?

    A BIG Thank you to Daniel at PRP for creating great products for the XDM and continuing to make this a great shooting community. All of the comments mentioned about the excellent level of service Daniel provides is no exaggeration. Other companies could learn a thing or two by following in Daniel's foot-steps and supporting their products like he does. When I ran into a problem with my install and didn't know where to turn I picked up the phone late on a Saturday evening and placed a call to PRP. Within a couple rings to my surprise Daniel answered and happily walked me thru a few steps to answer my questions! WOW! I can't believe someone was available so late on a weekend!

    Prior to this install I had only detail stripped the xdm for cleaning and wasn't sure how difficult this undertaking was going to be even with everyone's feedback in this thread of how easy it is. I purchased the video along with the Match kit and it was very helpful being able to watch the process. I did notice something that may have been left off the video. On the video there is mention of removing both the striker safety lever spring and sear spring but it does not mention reinstalling the striker safety lever spring. Now the gun functions and passes all the safety tests with this spring left off and I didn't notice that it needed to be reinstalled until I reread through the threads of this forum and saw that there was an extra spring laying around!

    Overall the install went without mishap and was much easier than I anticipated. Everything functions correctly and its amazing how little travel is in the trigger now. After installing the new trigger spring and trigger safety I don't believe there is much difference in trigger pull weight. Does anyone know what else to do to decrease the pull weight?

    I do have another question illustrated by this picture of my install below:


    Is the disassembler suppose to fit flush in the notch on the top left corner of the sear?

    With the disassembler in that position the grip safety is sticking out of the grip properly and functions correctly and smoothly without sticking and the gun functions without issue. Now if I push the sear back slightly to move the disassembler into the slot the grip safety is pulled into the grip and does not function correctly. And this is how it looks:


    Beside the obvious "leave it the way it works" could I have possibly missed something or not fitted the striker lever safety correctly?

    I plan on going to the range this weekend and test everything out but did not want to cause any damage if something is not lined up correctly.

    Any help or your experience would be appreciated :)
     

    jmira

    VA Rocks.
    Mar 25, 2009
    2,106
    Alexandria, VA
    I did notice something that may have been left off the video. On the video there is mention of removing both the striker safety lever spring and sear spring but it does not mention reinstalling the striker safety lever spring. Now the gun functions and passes all the safety tests with this spring left off and I didn't notice that it needed to be reinstalled until I reread through the threads of this forum and saw that there was an extra spring laying around!


    I talked to Daniel about this.. here is the excerpt from the email..


    The other spring that hooks over the safety lever is not necessary when my lever is installed.

    Its not too late to give me a call tonight.

    Regards,
    ~Daniel

     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,707
    PA
    Welcome to MD shooters draven:beer:

    Yes, it is normal for the grip safety to pull in when the sear is held down, it is also normal for the grip safety to need to be pressed in order to rack the slide, or engage the takedown bar. The grip safety lever has a small shelf that sits under the sear when it is at rest, the sear cannot pe pulled down because it hits this small shelf, that is the way the safety functions, if the sear cannot lower, it cannot release from the striker tab, and the striker cannot fire. No if the sear is held down by the takedown bar, the end of the grip safety is held to the rear behind it, and since the lever pivots around the center holding the top out to the rear means the body of the lever is held in at the grip. This is completely normal as some functions requiing the sear to lower, like racking the slide needs the sear to lower to clear the central polished rib on the slide as it moves back.

    As far as lowering the weight, there are a couple ways, the sear and trigger reset springs account for most of the pull weight, changing them to lighter springs will lower it, but could slow reset, and possibly cause failures to reset like Jmira experienced. The other way is polishing, in mine it reduce the pull weight about a pound over just the kit, polishing also does not require reduced power springs, and actually speeds reset because of the reduced friction in the moving parts, it also akes the triger pull very smooth, I also coat all the peices in militec-1 and warm tem up in a oven or with a hairdryer to get it to bond to the metal, and leave a slick as snot polished finish. I polished the striker tab, sear, and basically anywhere else that had friction when the trigger is pulled. In fact when trying out Jmiras gun with lighter springs, and mine that is polished, but with stock springs, mine felt a hair bit lighter, and definitely smoother. Doing both polishing and redced power springs will lighten the pull even more, and help prevent failures to reset with the lghter springs because there is less friction and the spring power needed to overcome friction is less. The design does not lend itself well to a really light pull, with about 3 pounds being about the absolute lightest you could go, with some increased risk of inavertent firing, because the spring on the striker safety would need to be and baking in militec on all the moving parts.
     

    Draven451

    Member
    Oct 3, 2009
    3
    Thank you Alucard and Jmira for your responses.

    I was not able to go to the range last weekend due to weather but this weekend the weather is cooperating and I may have to go and see how this trigger performs :party29:
     

    Draven451

    Member
    Oct 3, 2009
    3
    I have noticed something that happens frequently and wanted to see if anyone else is experiencing this issue. I would say this happens about 8 out of 10 times. After racking the slide back to practice trigger pulls, the trigger safety seems to stick and then makes an audible pop or clicking noise as I start to slowly depress the trigger safety before my finger engages the trigger. Sometimes the trigger safety moves freely as i press it in most times it sticks.

    Has anyone else had this issue? I did install the new trigger safety with this kit and fit the trigger safety per the instructions on the dvd. Is it possible that the trigger safety needs a little more sanding to fit better? Any advice on what could be causing it to stick?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,707
    PA
    I have noticed something that happens frequently and wanted to see if anyone else is experiencing this issue. I would say this happens about 8 out of 10 times. After racking the slide back to practice trigger pulls, the trigger safety seems to stick and then makes an audible pop or clicking noise as I start to slowly depress the trigger safety before my finger engages the trigger. Sometimes the trigger safety moves freely as i press it in most times it sticks.

    Has anyone else had this issue? I did install the new trigger safety with this kit and fit the trigger safety per the instructions on the dvd. Is it possible that the trigger safety needs a little more sanding to fit better? Any advice on what could be causing it to stick?

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    The safety paddle is pretty simple in operation, it has to be binding somewhere, you can push it around to try to find where it is binding, maybe a little bit of silicone grease, or radiusing a sharp edge would help.
     

    john_bud

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    2,045
    I ordered the xdm kit over xmas. Started putting it in today.

    What a major pain!

    The sear area with the safety lever is a total MF-er!. Not because of the kit, but because the parts are small, light in the shop (garage) sucks, my eyes are fast becoming more ornamental than functional for close work :( and my fingers are fat and fumbly. Man-> it totally sucks to get old! Yeah, the alternative may be worse, but I'm not gonna bet that way ! I spent a good hour and a half to 2 hours just getting the first step done (safety lever). It also hurt that I was following a posting on an XD and it is slightly different. Aparently they can put the lever in with the sear in place and I couldn't figure out how to do that!

    Spent that much time again getting new trigger safety in. The XDm safety has a notch cut in it and the replacement doesn't. What a cluster ! Must have put that sucker in 20-30 times. Take some off, trial fit, take some off trial fit. Over and over and over and over. If I could SEE the stupid thing clearly, that would have helped a bunch. Must have removed as much "material" from my fingers / thumb as from the trigger safety part! (ouch). Why not sell an XDm kit trigger safety with the correct XDm notch??? Then after it is the correct size, the pre-drilled hole is too small and the stupid thing won't move smoothly without being drilled larger. Grrrr.

    Spent that same time on the over travel stop. It would sure be handy to have smaller hands and dexterous fingers! Had to put it in FIRST before the trigger assembly and all that crud as I can't get it to go in after the trigger. it just won't fit in there! And it's a total bear to try and get it in first. It still has to be taken all apart and start filing off material to fit it. Oh joy. 5-6 hours down and I still have to fit it. Sure am glad that patience is in good supply or I would go too fast, remove too much material etc.

    On the bright side, I am getting a good bit of education on how the guts of the gun go together. I would be willing to bet that a person with better dexterity, sharp eyes for close work, good light, proper tools and experience could have completed 10 guns in the amount of time I've been diddling around with this one. Oh the joys of old age and decrepitude!

    jb
     

    AliasNeo07

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 12, 2009
    6,561
    MD
    Parbreak had this kit on his XDM and let me fire it during training yesterday. I was BLOWN AWAY. Worth every penny. If I had an XDM I'd buy one, lol.
     

    john_bud

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    2,045
    Well I finished the job today. Was actually a let down. I had to take it apart 2-3 times and "tweak" the over travel doohicky to get it just right. That took about 15-20 min total. Man, talk about experience guiding the way! I was expecting a long day of frustration, but it just went together with little drama at all.

    The over travel stop took very little grinding. I used 240 grit adhesive backed paper on a steel plate. Basically just rounded over the edge twice and took off 2-3 mils on the side and it works great. I was anticipating having to take off 4-5x the amount, but the very minimal amount removed just makes the contour match the trigger bar -- and presto! It works.

    I did finally (doh!) figure out that most of the time spent on the safety lever was because the original lever moved but the new one is immobile and supposed to be that way. Wasted time there by just not knowing that it was right --> so I kept doing it over. Oh well, live and learn (die and forget it all).

    It still isn't as crisp as a good 1911, but it's a heap load better than it was. Can't wait to have the weather clear up some and pop off a few rounds to verify functionality and see just how much better it really is.
     

    parbreak

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 18, 2008
    1,070
    The key to getting the most out of this kit is taking off just enough material from the overtravel stop to eliminate almost all overtravel while still allowing the trigger to fire and reset properly. Not enough material and gun will not operate, too much material and you'll have more overtravel than necessary.
    So basically it is very much a trial and error process and you will be able to detail strip your XDm blindfolded when finished.

    My reset distance is now approx. 1/8" compared to stock distance of a little over 1/4" and overtravel is almost none.

    Bryan
     

    john_bud

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    2,045
    I was anal about sanding the over travel stop, as I didn't want to take off too much. That was the longest part of the install on mine. Here is another thread with pics you guys with XDm's might want to use. (This is on an XD model)

    http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/sa-xd-...r-precision-safety-lever-overtravel-stop.html

    Yep, used that link and this one while doing the gun. This one was a bit better for me as it is an m. If you look at the overtravel stop in the link, they took off much more than I had to. I literally just took the corner off and it works -- well at least for dry firing. It resets and all, so it should be fine, but won't know until after 2-300 rounds have gone down range with out any bobbles.


    I would have preferred if the kit had kept the original trigger start position and reduced the overtravel from there. But it removes over travel by limiting the forward travel resulting in the trigger starting in the 1/2 pulled position. Probably not a problem for most, but I have mitts like big-foot and would have liked the start point farther forward. Oh well.

    jb
     

    parbreak

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 18, 2008
    1,070
    The safety paddle is pretty simple in operation, it has to be binding somewhere, you can push it around to try to find where it is binding, maybe a little bit of silicone grease, or radiusing a sharp edge would help.

    I put the new trigger safety on mine with the kit and had the same problem for a while with the "pop" you describe. Worked it's way out and now is smooth as butter!!

    Quite honestly, this was the hardest part of the whole installation as I had a heck of a time finding a punch that would remove the trigger safety pin without getting bent. That was one tough pin.
     

    parbreak

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 18, 2008
    1,070
    Yep, used that link and this one while doing the gun. This one was a bit better for me as it is an m. If you look at the overtravel stop in the link, they took off much more than I had to. I literally just took the corner off and it works -- well at least for dry firing. It resets and all, so it should be fine, but won't know until after 2-300 rounds have gone down range with out any bobbles.


    I would have preferred if the kit had kept the original trigger start position and reduced the overtravel from there. But it removes over travel by limiting the forward travel resulting in the trigger starting in the 1/2 pulled position. Probably not a problem for most, but I have mitts like big-foot and would have liked the start point farther forward. Oh well.

    jb


    Be prepared to take off a bit more material than you think. Mine worked fine for dry-firing and reset too, but would not fire on a live round. I ended up taking punches, files and sandpaper to the range and did the final fitting right there. Ended up getting it darn near perfect by doing the fitting on site.

    Bryan
     

    john_bud

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    2,045
    Be prepared to take off a bit more material than you think. Mine worked fine for dry-firing and reset too, but would not fire on a live round. I ended up taking punches, files and sandpaper to the range and did the final fitting right there. Ended up getting it darn near perfect by doing the fitting on site.

    Bryan

    Prepared I am! Firing it today in the cold, the first click was "bang-free". Waited 10-15 seconds then removed mag and round. No strike on the primer. Replaced mag, racked and pulled trigger, again -- bangless. :mad54: Did a couple dozen dryfires and it was getting where the strike was sounding / feeling more agressive. Replaced the mag and had 14 bangs with no issues. Reloaded the 2 and they went bang too.

    THEN I recalled spraying a fair amount of EEZOX onto the striker and looking for a q-tip to wipe out the extra. Not finding one, I just reassembled. :innocent0 Probably just full of thick lube that was slowing the striker.

    It was better than the factory trigger, but with the gloves on, the cold and the initial light strikes -- I'll hold off on any expression of goodness.
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Latest posts

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,548
    Messages
    7,285,992
    Members
    33,476
    Latest member
    Spb5205

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom