ISO : 1.25" Auger Bit

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  • FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,036
    ISO : 1" Auger Bit

    Going to start a treehouse project. 1.25" x 15" lag bolts are to be sunk into the tree.

    Seeing I'll be drilling four holes, I was hoping to borrow than buy a drill bit for the job.

    Anyone? Arnold area.
     
    Last edited:

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,316
    Mid-Merlind
    An auger that big is going to fight back. I'd suggest using a spade bit. Drill your counterbores first, then your through holes.
     

    StantonCree

    Watch your beer
    Jan 23, 2011
    23,932
    An auger that big is going to fight back. I'd suggest using a spade bit. Drill your counterbores first, then your through holes.

    1 2nd this and MAY have the 1.5 spade bit. Let me check when I get home and if you work daywork anytime after next week I can meet you at A1Uniform or on the line.
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,036
    All the treehouse builder sites seem to use an auger.

    I may have a Bosch 1.25 daredevil spade then.. seemed the auger would clean out easier. I bought a pack of them a while ago of various sizes.

    If the lag is 1.25 should I predrill 1.25 or undersize it?


    And MPDC, if you got it and I don't I'd meet you at A1.
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,036
    An auger that big is going to fight back. I'd suggest using a spade bit. Drill your counterbores first, then your through holes.

    No counter bore. While tree house attachment bolts do need that relief, I am using lags and just need to sink them in.


    The lag is a beast. 1.25" by 15". It will get right into the middle of these trees.





    1m55s
     

    MADad

    Member
    Sep 8, 2013
    88
    Charles County
    If you’re going to use 1.25” lag bolts, you don’t want to drill your holes 1.25”. The bolts won’t bite into anything, they’ll just slide in and out. You want to undersized the holes, maybe use 3/4” or 7/8” bits, depending on the type of tree. Also, if you end up using an auger bit, you might want to use a 1/2”, 90 degree drill. That way you can hold onto the drill without it twisting your wrist off when it bites. If you were going to use bolts that were going to go completely through the tree, then you would want to use the 1.25” bit for the 1.25” through bolts.
     

    ironpony

    Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 8, 2013
    7,239
    Davidsonville
    If you’re going to use 1.25” lag bolts, you don’t want to drill your holes 1.25”. The bolts won’t bite into anything, they’ll just slide in and out. You want to undersized the holes, maybe use 3/4” or 7/8” bits, depending on the type of tree. Also, if you end up using an auger bit, you might want to use a 1/2”, 90 degree drill. That way you can hold onto the drill without it twisting your wrist off when it bites. If you were going to use bolts that were going to go completely through the tree, then you would want to use the 1.25” bit for the 1.25” through bolts.

    Good info, wood the bit electricians use for wires work, I have used these extensively and they will shed some material quickly, not sure about green wood though ?
     

    MADad

    Member
    Sep 8, 2013
    88
    Charles County
    Yep, those bits would work perfectly. Yea, the green wood is probably going to fight you a bit and that’s why I’d suggest the 90 degree drill.
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,036
    Ya, some high torque stuff for sure.

    To put the bolts in I have an M18 high torque 1/2" impact, pin detent .. see what it does with a new 9AH HD battery.. to drive this thing in. Says 1100ft-lbs.

    Four holes, four lags. Don't want to get too deep into tools I will only use this time around.
     

    MADad

    Member
    Sep 8, 2013
    88
    Charles County
    I probably have all but the 3”. Geez, that would be a heck of a bit. Keep in touch. I could come up when you plan on doing it probably. I’m retired and wouldn’t mind.no charge, free labor!
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,036
    The 3" is just for the TABs which have a large shoulder, from which a majority of the strength (in sheer) is achieved. University testing found a TAB can do 20,000#!

    And I appreciate your offer but that is a haul from ChCo. I am north of Annapolis.
     

    jcutonilli

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 28, 2013
    2,474
    Changed title to reflect small auger. I am not sure if the 1.25" is min or max diameter of lag. I need to look. The bits the treehouse supplies sells are these:

    Irwin 3" self feeding timber bit
    Irwin 1" x 18" Ship Auger Bit
    Irwin 1-1/16" x 18" Ship Auger Bit
    Irwin 1-1/8" x 18" Ship Auger Bit

    https://www.treehousesupplies.com/Irwin_Bit_Purchase_Kit_p/48-irwin-kit_p.htm

    These will be going into oak.. think white.

    The website for the bolts say "Pre-drilled with a 1-1/8" auger bit in hardwood and a 1" auger bit in very soft woods" so you really want a 1 1/8 if it is oak. They apparently rent them if you cant find them
     

    adit

    ReMember
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 20, 2013
    19,654
    DE
    https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-ship-auger-bit-set-3-pc-61698.html

    18 in. Ship Auger Bit Set 3 Pc, 1/2 in., 3/4 in., 1 in. , 90 day warranty if you break it.

    HFT $19.99 - 20/25% off coupon $15-16 plus tax.

    http://www.hfqpdb.com/

    image_25354.jpg
     

    ironpony

    Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 8, 2013
    7,239
    Davidsonville
    Not too sure I would use or count on an auger from HF given the torque that may be applied, however I do not own anything from HF so ICBWrong. Good Luck with the project.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    For framing wood poles hardware is usually 5/8" or 3/4". Transmission equipment is 3/4 to 7/8. Bolts are usually soft drawn so they can stretch or bend easily without breaking. 5/8 is by far the most common and will hold the world.
    The HF wood bits shown will do the job inexpensively but you have to have an impact gun with the hex bit adapter.

    The trick is to not drive them to quickly because the worn on the end of the bit does the work. When you hit a knot, drive a bolt into the tree just enough to allow the worm a new purchase vs increasing the speed and pushing harder on the drill or brace which will just burn the bit up.

    I can get galvanized pole hardware out the wazoo if you need some.
    When I used to cable trees, I was taught to always use galvanized hardware. It prevents rust from forming from the damaged wood and allows the tree to grow back tightly to the jlags or eye-bolts that were used.

    When we used to climb and frame with a brace and bit a 5/8 bit was the obvious choice. With a hydraulic gun or gas drill a 13/16 bit is used to prevent fatigue when your in rubber.

    On big wood or black jack southern pine we often bored a pilot hole with a brace and bit to make the job easier.
    Wood boring equipment was treated like gold and always oiled and stored correctly.
    Hydraulic lineman these days don't even know how to sharpen a bit. They just bitch and holler they need a new one.

    Make sure you you have a safety when you go up, most fatal falls occur at 6 foot or less.
     

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