Should I sand and refinish my 1945 lee enfield #4 mk1?

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  • bigmancrisler

    2A Preacher
    Jun 4, 2020
    1,263
    Martinsburg, WV
    I got a #4 mk1 a couple days ago and last night I started taking it apart to do the normal surplus cleaning. The stock had a small crack on the front top hand guard where the middle barrel band goes over, which I want to repair so the crack does not get worse. The stock is all the same dark shade but I know they were originally stained with Linseed oil. There is surprisingly no rust on any of the metal but there is the normal blueing wear. The wood stock looks nice for the most part aside from the usual dings and scratches. It also has nice rifling. So should I sand and refinish the stock? (I will post more photos of it when I get home).

    TLDR: Should I sand and refinish a 1945 #4 mk1 with linseed oil?
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    tallen702

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 3, 2012
    5,102
    In the boonies of MoCo
    No to sanding.

    If anything, I would repair the crack from the inside using Acraglas with surgical tubing as the mechanical clamp to create a proper set. You can color the Acraglas to match the finish to make it nearly unrecognizable.
     

    snake-eye

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2015
    167
    MD
    Acraglas comes with dies that you mix in to get the color you want. No to sanding! Strip of the old finish with a solvent, tung oil finish. I did my Ishapor that way turned out great.
     

    bigmancrisler

    2A Preacher
    Jun 4, 2020
    1,263
    Martinsburg, WV
    Unfortunately I didn’t think to take a photo of the rifle put together first. But should I use a paint stripper or what kind of solvent?


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    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    I use black dye with acra glass gel sometimes for strength.
    Irrigate the split with some acetone to get rid of oils and grease, if it’s pretty dry already tite bond wood glue will work.
    Hold the split open with some tooth picks so you can manage the adhesive better, scrape it off with a razor to Level the surface from both inside and outside to remove excess glue.
    Don’t smear it flat with your finger, let it set up some before scraping it off.
    If the splits on the radius of the HG, you need to support the guard with a piece of pipe or socket to maintain the radius without stressing it. Use grease to keep from sticking.
    Do a trial run with your rigging to make sure it does the job, you don’t want to have to figure it out and fumble over it while the glue is still wet and on the guard at the same time.
    Little bit of planning is all, you’ll have a nice repair that will be hard to detect and fun to accomplish.
     

    snake-eye

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2015
    167
    MD
    Unfortunately I didn’t think to take a photo of the rifle put together first. But should I use a paint stripper or what kind of solvent?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I use acetone. Removes the dirt oils and finish without damage to the wood.
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,815
    I use black dye with acra glass gel sometimes for strength.
    Irrigate the split with some acetone to get rid of oils and grease, if it’s pretty dry already tite bond wood glue will work.
    Hold the split open with some tooth picks so you can manage the adhesive better, scrape it off with a razor to Level the surface from both inside and outside to remove excess glue.
    Don’t smear it flat with your finger, let it set up some before scraping it off.
    If the splits on the radius of the HG, you need to support the guard with a piece of pipe or socket to maintain the radius without stressing it. Use grease to keep from sticking.
    Do a trial run with your rigging to make sure it does the job, you don’t want to have to figure it out and fumble over it while the glue is still wet and on the guard at the same time.
    Little bit of planning is all, you’ll have a nice repair that will be hard to detect and fun to accomplish.
    Listen to this man^^^he knows his chit.


    Sand and finish your floors. Leave your Enfield alone. :D
     

    Boats

    Beer, Bikes n Boomsticks
    Mar 13, 2012
    4,073
    Howeird County
    Depends on if you want the rifle for the astetic or inherent value.

    if you want to look at it and have a gleaming reflection of an old rifle knowing that it is worth less than had you not refinished it, then go for it.

    If your owning this rifle as an investment, then dont
     

    bigmancrisler

    2A Preacher
    Jun 4, 2020
    1,263
    Martinsburg, WV
    Depends on if you want the rifle for the astetic or inherent value.

    if you want to look at it and have a gleaming reflection of an old rifle knowing that it is worth less than had you not refinished it, then go for it.

    If your owning this rifle as an investment, then dont


    My collection is an investment I’ll never sell lol. But I’m honestly not sure, I want a original looking rifle (like it’s off the factory floor) but at the same time I like the old been through the ringer look.


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    Trepang

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 10, 2015
    3,310
    Southern Illinois
    I have spent a lot of time and money starting an antique, historical gun collection. I'd rather have a beat-up original stock than one with refinished wood. As a matter of principal, I won't bid on a refinished old gun.
     

    bigmancrisler

    2A Preacher
    Jun 4, 2020
    1,263
    Martinsburg, WV
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    Alright guys, so I have finished cleaning all the metal, everything is oiled up, gunk free and reassembled for the time being and function checked. I have come to the conclusion I don’t want to refinish it but I do want to get rid of the grimy feeling on the stock. None of my other surplus rifles have had this tacky feeling. They have all been in wet cosmoline that I just wiped and melted off or been bone dry. What should I do to remove that? The acetone?

    PS if y’all want/need better photos LMK.

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    snake-eye

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2015
    167
    MD
    Acetone will do it but will also start to remove any finish. A light application might get the gunk off. Just don’t get aggressive with it.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Warm soap and water with a moderately stiff bristle brush for hard to move extra grimy areas. A medium scotch brite pad. Go easy, don't submerge the wood and wipe the crud off with some paper towels as it migrates off the stock.

    If you could get the butt stock off that would make the whole thing easier to manage. Remove the fore stock by tapping down on with a rubber mallet or hardwood drift made form a dowel just in front of the butt stock socket. There will be a little ledge either side of the action body on the sides. Couple light raps will allow removal. Dont pull off by rotating the front of the fore stock downwards. That will/can cause damage to the bearing points.

    Use penetrating oil on the butt stock bolt that is accessed through the trap at the rear of the stock. You'll need a stout common screw driver long enough to reach the bolt. Use penetrating oil at the front of the screw where it comes through the wrist socket. Sometimes there is a leather washer on top of the head of the bolt. Fish it out with a piece of thin wire and save it if you can.

    Once its all clean I would flood the internal of the wood parts with boiled linseed oil to restore some lubricity to the wood fibers. It looks pretty dry and would probably drink it right up. (looks like its spent time on Africa)

    Theirs a whole bunch of other things you can do to inspect, safety check clean and tidy up the appearance of your rifle if you wish.
    A no 4 is a good milsurp rifle to go over and bring back to fighting shape. A strange mix of simple and complexities that make them interesting to fiddle with.
     

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