- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
This ^^^^^
There are some other quality rods, but one piece and STEEL is the key.
Doesn't Chad say something about those who have and those who will have a pull through break and be stuck in the bore?????
which cleaning kit doesn't suck?
- Thread starter OLM-Medic
- Start date
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This ^^^^^
There are some other quality rods, but one piece and STEEL is the key.
Doesn't Chad say something about those who have and those who will have a pull through break and be stuck in the bore?????
- Feb 2, 2016
- 2,495
Dewey make great rods. Stay away from the screw together rods. Try not to use a long rod in a short barrel. I usually use a dry bore snake to get most of the crud out, then Ballistol soaked patches or sprayed in to soak for 30 minutes. Then jag/brush patch as needed for the rest till clean.
I personally can't put a gun away after even a single round w/o cleaning it. During a hunting trip, I may wait till I get home to clean the barrel except for muzzie season where I will use a boresnake to get most of the crud out.
I've always wondered what is worse, cleaning after every session or letting gun powder residue corrode your barrel etc.
I personally can't put a gun away after even a single round w/o cleaning it. During a hunting trip, I may wait till I get home to clean the barrel except for muzzie season where I will use a boresnake to get most of the crud out.
I've always wondered what is worse, cleaning after every session or letting gun powder residue corrode your barrel etc.
I only used those cause they are the ones that I have and could get the name right
Tipton rods are real good too.
I know Chad has had to remove more than a few bore snakes that have broken while being pulled through the barrel. I've had a couple and never really cared for them.
One piece rod, a Tipton best gun vice, brass jag, and most importantly, a bore guide if one cares about throat erosion. I reserve bore snakes and sectional rods for unavoidable field barrel checks and cleaning. I wish bore snakes would be offered with nylon bristles.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014932449?pid=175803
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014932449?pid=175803
My Otis kit is so old, I bought way back (late 80s/90s sometime) there was only 1 and it went by a different name. And I totally forgot it. Whole Kit & Caboodle. That's it.
I love the title of this thread; I know I have a cleaning kit or two that turned out to be junk.
I got one of those Army kits made by Otis at a gun show and it was actually reasonably priced. Came in a round zipper pouch with a cable and brush arrangement. Pretty much like this but it was like $20 at the time:
https://otisdefense.com/m4-m16-softpack-system/
https://otisdefense.com/mpsr-cleaning-system-223-5-56mm/
I got one of those Army kits made by Otis at a gun show and it was actually reasonably priced. Came in a round zipper pouch with a cable and brush arrangement. Pretty much like this but it was like $20 at the time:
https://otisdefense.com/mpsr-cleaning-system-223-5-56mm/
Supposedly, modern gun powder and primers are not corrosive. So long as you don't get any moisture in it; just keep it oiled. Should be ok in theory at least.
alucard0822
For great Justice
A boresnake won't "clean" a barrel, they only sweep out loose fouling, which is all I really need for most of my firearms. For my precision barrels, they are lapped, so they don't really collect anything other than copper fouling, I will use wipeout overnight, then sweep the blue goo out with a patch or mop with a tipton coated rod. They rarely get cleaned after the first couple hundred rounds break them in, and usually takes a couple boxes of ammo to get enough copper in the bore to shoot consistently again. The only barrels I clean regularly are a couple revolvers shooting hardcast, and the Lewis lead remover works best for them.
smokey
2A TEACHER
- Jan 31, 2008
- 31,525
Get a good one piece coated rod, a brass jag, a bore guide(or just yank the bolt and use the carrier as a "bore guide"), a bunch of patches, and wipe out(accelerator too if you're in a hurry or breaking in a barrel at the range). Foam up the barrel, leave it slightly tilted with the muzzle down over a paper plate, and go live your best life for an hour or so. Come back and run some patches from chamber to muzzle until the green gunk stuff stops. Repeat as necessary. It'll be gentle on the bore, very effective at getting rid of crap in the barrel, and won't waste much of your time.
- May 5, 2010
- 6,588
I ended up getting a nylon bore snake cable instead of those string ones. It should be stiff enough to slide down a .223 hole.
Damn that would suck.
I dont think gun powder residue really does any damage to your barrel unless it's old surplus corrosive ammo.
You can go a long time without cleaning before noticing any loss of accuracy, so for an AR I usually just wipe the crud off of the BCG and re lubricate. I don't clean barrels often. In fact I can't remember the last time I have cleaned my barrels. I go several range trips without doing it. Even for long range rifles.
I find that barrel cleaning can cause a slight POI shift so I usually don't clean until right before I'm going to the range to zero.
Damn that would suck.
I dont think gun powder residue really does any damage to your barrel unless it's old surplus corrosive ammo.
You can go a long time without cleaning before noticing any loss of accuracy, so for an AR I usually just wipe the crud off of the BCG and re lubricate. I don't clean barrels often. In fact I can't remember the last time I have cleaned my barrels. I go several range trips without doing it. Even for long range rifles.
I find that barrel cleaning can cause a slight POI shift so I usually don't clean until right before I'm going to the range to zero.
Combloc
Stop Negassing me!!!!!
I've been using the same plain jane multi-section aluminum rod that came with a Hoppe's cleaning kit for 30+ years now. I'm wondering how your are breaking them??
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Over cleaning damages firearms more than leaving them alone.
Except for corrosive ammo or powder. If you shoot very old military ammo or black powder (including some of the substitutes) you need to clean after every range trip.
Otherwise, wipe down the outside (I use Birchwood Casey Sheath/Barricade), and put them away.
It seems that most long range shooters are only cleaning when accuracy starts to degrade.
The military teaches cleaning after every use for two reasons. 1) Tradition, dating back to corrosive ammo, and 2) Getting newbies used to cleaning and getting familiar with their firearm.
BUT, if something wears out, the armorer fixes it for free.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
A tight patch. Pushing hard, and getting a bit off axis, rod bends, then breaks.
LGood48
Ultimate Member
This is what goes to the range for quick clean. Otis kit at home for a more overall cleaning.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Now to start a "discussion"
Coated or bare rods?
I use bare rods. The idea being that coated rods can get grit embedded in the coating and do damage. With the bare rod, a wipe with a clean rag, and there is no grit to worry about.
The pro for coated rods is that the surface is softer and will not wear the bore if it touches.
Coated or bare rods?
I use bare rods. The idea being that coated rods can get grit embedded in the coating and do damage. With the bare rod, a wipe with a clean rag, and there is no grit to worry about.
The pro for coated rods is that the surface is softer and will not wear the bore if it touches.
Alan3413
Ultimate Member
- Mar 4, 2013
- 17,164
Now to start a "discussion"
Coated or bare rods?
I use bare rods. The idea being that coated rods can get grit embedded in the coating and do damage. With the bare rod, a wipe with a clean rag, and there is no grit to worry about.
The pro for coated rods is that the surface is softer and will not wear the bore if it touches.
Coated. I wipe the rods clean before using them. Unless they fell in a sandpit and got stepped on, hard to get grit embedded so deep a wipe down won't remove them.
Totally unnecessary. Unless you’re shooting corrosive ammo, you are most likely doing way more damage by cleaning them so often than any residue will.
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Same here Combloc. Replace the tips when they get old and I'm back in business.
cstone
Active Member
No kit. One piece Dewey rod. Brass jags and cotton patches. Hoppes, non-chlorinated brake cleaner, mineral spirits, synthetic motor oil, and white lithium grease. I mixed up some Ed's Red a few years ago but don't need it very often. Don't get overly hung up on cleaning. Keep barrels free from obstructions and keep guns properly lubricated.
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