Full length size or not

[Bucephalus]

If new brass fits in the chamber of your gun should it be full length sized or just neck sized? Not full length sizing new brass may get one more reloading out of it. Just a thought.

[Matlack]

Originally Posted by Bucephalus

If new brass fits in the chamber of your gun should it be full length sized or just neck sized? Not full length sizing new brass may get one more reloading out of it. Just a thought.

I think the real question is, do I want small base dies or not?

[Sticky]

Depends on the gun for me... a bolt action, fireformed brass only gets neck sized. A gasser gets a full length resize, but just enough to set the shoulder back about .003-.005". Both will extend the life of your brass, but only a teeny bit in many cases. New factory brass gets full length sized and fireformed, then as above for me..

[Sticky]

Originally Posted by Matlack

I think the real question is, do I want small base dies or not?

I have rarely found the need. It does depend a little on your source for brass. (was it fired in a SAW?)

[Pinecone]

OP asked about NEW brass.

I do not size new pistol brass.

For rifle brass, it depends. I do not size new Lapua brass, as it is very consistent new. Other brands may need to be neck sized when new to get consistent neck tension.

For plinking ammo, I just load it.

[jimbobborg]

All new brass needs full length resizing. Brass gets squeezed and case mouths deform during transit. Just do it.

[rnish]

I always do a full resize my brass (new and used). It was the way I was taught, it doesn't take that much time or effort.

[Speed3]

I will say full length size all brass, even new.

[Doco Overboard]

I never full length resize new brass for rimmed cartridges, usually the chamber allows for a substantial amount of cartridge head-space from the onset. As long as bullet tension is good I just load. For rimless brass in semi auto guns I like to make sure full length sizing has been done and have a look at the depth of primer pockets for safety purposes and the same for neck tension. For bolt guns I just check in a case gauge and same for neck tension unless I'm loading for something with a close to minimum spec chamber like a savage.

[ken792]

I don't do an actual full length resize for my .30/06 that I shoot in my 03 and M1. I only resize far enough for the cartridge to chamber easily. I start with my die a quarter turn backed off and slowly lower it while testing cases until I get a setting that chambers. There is a slight gap of light between the shell holder and die when sizing.

I would simply size the brass however you'll be doing it in subsequent loadings, whether it's full length, partial full length, or neck sizing. That's just a matter of convenience. New brass should be in SAAMI specs, so neck sizing would probably be fine though.

[John from MD]

If you neck size, you should F/L resize every 3 to 5 firings depending on your rifle. There is a raft of info about the subject on the web so I won't repeat it.

[Pinecone]

Many long range precision shooters have switched to always full length resizing. But with a minimal shoulder bump.

Neck sizing only assumes your chamber is not at all oval or banana shape. An FL size with a 0.001 - 0.002 shoulder bump will make sure the round chambers properly, without over working the brass or causing any accuracy issues.

As I understand it, many or even most bench rest shooters Fl size.

But again, I do not normally size NEW brass. And did not size the new brass used in my .308 to reach out to 1200 yards. So it works.