Buck 110 Orientation in Sheath ?

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  • Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,876
    The Good News - For my recent B Day , recieved Buck 110 with blade of S 30V . ( Yeah, yeah , there are even more better-er boutique steels nowdays , but for an old school 1095 loving guy like me, this is my first experementation with a super premium steel .)

    But the current production leather sheaths are now of symetrical . Back in the 20th Century , the leather sheaths were more fitted as to which way they were oriented .( Yes, if you really wanted to , you change up once they were broken in , but they did have a design bias .)


    As I recall, definately hinge down . I *think* that ( referencing worn on Right hip ) the bottom of the handle where the lock mechanism is faced forewards, and the blade side faced rear . I'm I remembering correctly ? ( By the '90s mostly carried in pocket, but in '70s and '80s regularly used the sheath .)
     

    Nobody

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 15, 2009
    2,810
    As long as the snap was tight i would wear mine upside down. Undo the snap and it falls into your hand blade to the backand pivot out first. Never lost one in all my days.

    Nobody
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,876
    I know it was popular back in the day , but I didn't ever 100% trust a snap for upside down .
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,643
    PA
    most carry "tip up"(aka pivot down), for folders it generally is easier to pull, open, blade is held closed by the back of the pocket, and if it has a clip, it is less in the way than it would be near the pivot. Of course most of that doesn't matter with a sheath and blade that lacks a hole/stud/flipper, but I do generally carry EVERYTHING that way for consistency, and pretty much the only way to draw a fixed blade.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,721
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Having carried the 112 and 110 for probably 40 years, I can say that I have never carried it upside down. It is really a working knife not a defensive knife. I carry a assisted opening Kershaw now due to the violent times we live in. FYI, S30 is a bitch to sharpen unless you have one of those electrical grinders.
     
    The Good News - For my recent B Day , recieved Buck 110 with blade of S 30V . ( Yeah, yeah , there are even more better-er boutique steels nowdays , but for an old school 1095 loving guy like me, this is my first experementation with a super premium steel .)

    But the current production leather sheaths are now of symetrical . Back in the 20th Century , the leather sheaths were more fitted as to which way they were oriented .( Yes, if you really wanted to , you change up once they were broken in , but they did have a design bias .)


    As I recall, definately hinge down . I *think* that ( referencing worn on Right hip ) the bottom of the handle where the lock mechanism is faced forewards, and the blade side faced rear . I'm I remembering correctly ? ( By the '90s mostly carried in pocket, but in '70s and '80s regularly used the sheath .)

    That's how I always did it.Rarely "wear" a folder anymore since the clip became so prevalent and my Leatherman took over the utility side of things.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,876
    I carried it today, the manner that SRD, and my memory described ..

    Use an aftermarket sheath I already had , brown leather , decorative leather lacing. Makes me think of period Geo Lawrence holsters , but probably few other people ..

    **********

    Probably belongs in my other thread , but since John from Md brought it up here, I'll jack myself .

    So talk to me about sharpening S 30V . And trying to head off the usual barrage on the subject , I'm an old school kinda guy, with roots with whetstones , rather than electrical gadgets . So given the hardness of the steel, I somewhat recall that diamond is the recomended ? What direction with grit ? Coarser or finer than I would use for 1095 in similar condition ? I'm thinking those diamond "paddles " ( like a wide popsicle stick, with diamond media . The round sticks don't give me as much tactile feedback .

    Normally sharpen/ establish an edge on virgin knives before using them. But this one actual is both sharp, and has a more or less usable edge ( two different things). But I know I'll want to keep on top of it , instead of letting it get dull just to test the endurance .
     

    ironpony

    Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 8, 2013
    7,187
    Davidsonville
    I carried the 110 as a kid, into South River High, most of the rednecks had them. the leather pouch was simple to re-mold. I'd love to see the 110 in S 90V, I have some spydercos, they aren't that bad to sharpen, I use what you mentioned Bigfoot, improves your hand eye coordination too.
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,643
    PA
    S30V is the gateway to supersteels, it's a really good well rounded steel, decent toughness, wear resistance, and corrosion resistance. As a steel that relies on Vanadium for wear resistance, it can take a bit more time to sharpen, but isn't all that hard to sharpen by hand on plain aluminum oxide benchstones. I like my Edge pro, but occasionally touch up on waterstones by hand , and usually strop on a leather belt on a 1x30 power sander to save time, and make touch ups really quick. If you are efficient at sharpening aka can hold a precise angle by hand or with a jig, just match the factory relief bevel drawing away from the edge until you build a burr on both sides or around 17-20 degrees per side if the factory angle sucks or is uneven. I use 180-220 grit to reprofile or change angles, 240-400 to actually sharpen, then 600-1500 to refine and polish an edge, put the angle a little steeper, around 22-degrees per side for the last few strokes to reduce the burr, and give a fine micro-bevel. I finish by stropping on leather loaded with chrome oxide paste. Gives a really good, durable, and razor sharp edge, and can be touched up in seconds by just re-stropping when it loses it's bite. This is best on EDC knives where you want the best edge on fine grained steel, for my beaters, and working knives, I might only sharpen to 400 grit before stropping to give a bit more bite and sharpen in less time. Auminum Oxide stones can do well enough up to S30V, and polishing higher steels, but Silicon carbide and diamond really speed up the process, especially for my ridiculously hard/wear resistant M4, S90V, S110v and Maxamet blades, some like S110V might take several times the work to sharpen compared to S30V, and on a different planet compared to 1090 or 440C.
     

    MattTheGunslinger

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 26, 2010
    1,373
    Baltimore county
    My Buck 110 in 420HC has been a constant companion for a long time. I carry it on my right side, tip up, lock forward. Even though I find 420HC to be perfectly fine for everything I use the knife for, I do want to get an S30V version soon. My Worksharp does a fantastic job keeping a keen edge on all my knives whether its 1095, 420HC, or S30V.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,876
    In between my father, and Woodcarving Merit Badge , I learned proper freehand whetsone in my formative years . ( Albeit I usually stop after Hard Arkansas , and rarely bother to strop .)

    Over the years , when somthing had no semblance of an edge, I'd use a rod contraption for the tedious part of looking 80% like an edge, and finish by freehand .

    I do carry a Work Sharp or Smiths pull through in my pocket . For use with flea market beaters , or any of my friends with inexpensive dull knives , I'll give them a 3-5 minute courtesy touch up, and be their hero .
     

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