- Feb 17, 2011
- 14,024
I do not see how an organic based compound can be considered a protectant. As organic material breaks down it becomes acidic.
CLP comparison
- Thread starter Sirex
- Start date
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I do not see how an organic based compound can be considered a protectant. As organic material breaks down it becomes acidic.
grease, wax and cosmoline are organic compounds and are generally good protectants
- Feb 17, 2011
- 14,024
Yes technically oil is organic but most protect ant are petroleum based and pose mild to serious health hazards unlike "organic"
lawdog89
Active Member
I treated the bolt carrier group on my M4 .223 with FrogLube. I heated it up and did all of the stupid little things the instructions say. When I took the rifle out of my gun safe the FrogLube had turned into a hard sticky F'ng mess. So I threw it in the trash. Your results may vary. Just sayin'.
Magnumite
Ultimate Member
I read lots of those reports about Frog Lube. I also read you are sopposed to heat the parts, apply the Frog Lube and wipe off the excess. Then it still congeals just in lesser quantity. I don't care for a lube requiring a ceremonial process to apply. Breakfree CLP has served we well for over 36 years. Wear indicators in the guns are normal and they stay tight. Rust remains nonexistent. I've shot matches in the rain with blued guns treated with it and they never rusted. Stainless guns got so hot they had that singing hot temp to them. Never a sluggish operation or gall. I'll continue using Breakfree CLP because I know it works. I use Tetra Gun grease on locking lugs, fire control groups and higher loads areas. Never on slide rails or bolts. It is all in selection of an appropriate product for the application.
Not a plug for Breakfree not T-Gun grease...just how do you improve on excellent results one gets?
Not a plug for Breakfree not T-Gun grease...just how do you improve on excellent results one gets?
I hear you. I love tinkering as much as the next gun owner, but the process for froglube is a little more than I want to do. That said, plenty of folks use it and love it. Glad they found something that works for them.
These tests are certainly interesting, but I think they take things a little far outside of normal use parameters. I used CLP when I was in the military, and the only time my M4 ever started to malfunction was at the end of range days or training courses where we were firing 1000+ rounds (or a bunch of blanks) in a day and we didn't have time to do a quick wipe down at lunch. A wipedown of the BCG and use of a star chamber brush and boresnake was about all it took to get me back up and running. Given that a normal combat load out for me was 210 rounds, I was never especially worried about malfunctions.
These days I use Ballistol and Ballistol moose milk for firearms that I shoot corrosive ammunition through. My other firearms typically get some kind of gentle nontoxic solvent and then relubed with whatever I have lying around. I'm slowly converting over to nontoxic stuff like the ALG purple goo, since I have to clean and relube indoors most of the time. I guess it is a lot more expensive, but I don't clean firearms so often that it is a major drain on my budget. The big thing is that I try to avoid mixing different solvents or different lubes with each other. For the most part it is probably not an issue, but it seems wise not to mix random chemicals when a little care can be taken to avoid it.
Sirex
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I use Ballistol and the mix on my Mosins, SKS when I shot M67, and my pump shotguns.. I like the Ballistol too.
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