Anyone knowledgeable on Colts or revolvers in general? The Colt OP I picked up is just a hair out of time. The dealer told me before buying it. So I knew what I was getting in to. Here is the description.
DA sometimes faces slight extra resistance when the trigger is pulled slowly, but it isn’t noticable on a fast pull and not always on a slow pull. Same in SA. A quick cock and it almost never happens, a slow cock sometimes it hangs a bit. So I am thinking that is the locking pawl and hand being out just a fraction. The pawl operates the moment the hammer starts to move, and appears to release when it should. So my guess is the top of the hand needs to be shortened maybe just a thousandth or an inch or two.
The next part is when operated slow, but only noticeable in SA, the locking pawl doesn’t engage down fully in to the cylinder channel unless the hammer is moved past full cock (doesn’t need to be moved much past it). Or when the trigger is pulled it rotates the cylinder that last fraction and the locking pawl drops in to the slot on the cylinder. When cocking it quickly, DA or slowly pulling the hammer past full cock and the locking pawl drops in to the cylinder recess and locks it up.
At a guess this means that the lower part of the hand needs to be lengthened a couple of thousandths by peening.
On the failure to lock up, even operated slowly about half the time it will drop the pawl in to the cylinder recess. No, none of this seems related to a specific chamber
The timing just seems ever so slightly off. My plan was to order a new hand from Numerich so I wasn’t messing with my existing one. Then work with that one to get the timing right, realizing that the new hand might need significant fitting rather than just a tweak.
Thoughts? Or should I just work with the existing hand as the timing is only off a tiny fraction? Also does it sound like I’ve probably diagnosed the issues correctly and what needs to be done (shave the top of the hand a hair and add a hair to the bottom hook)?
Thanks!
DA sometimes faces slight extra resistance when the trigger is pulled slowly, but it isn’t noticable on a fast pull and not always on a slow pull. Same in SA. A quick cock and it almost never happens, a slow cock sometimes it hangs a bit. So I am thinking that is the locking pawl and hand being out just a fraction. The pawl operates the moment the hammer starts to move, and appears to release when it should. So my guess is the top of the hand needs to be shortened maybe just a thousandth or an inch or two.
The next part is when operated slow, but only noticeable in SA, the locking pawl doesn’t engage down fully in to the cylinder channel unless the hammer is moved past full cock (doesn’t need to be moved much past it). Or when the trigger is pulled it rotates the cylinder that last fraction and the locking pawl drops in to the slot on the cylinder. When cocking it quickly, DA or slowly pulling the hammer past full cock and the locking pawl drops in to the cylinder recess and locks it up.
At a guess this means that the lower part of the hand needs to be lengthened a couple of thousandths by peening.
On the failure to lock up, even operated slowly about half the time it will drop the pawl in to the cylinder recess. No, none of this seems related to a specific chamber
The timing just seems ever so slightly off. My plan was to order a new hand from Numerich so I wasn’t messing with my existing one. Then work with that one to get the timing right, realizing that the new hand might need significant fitting rather than just a tweak.
Thoughts? Or should I just work with the existing hand as the timing is only off a tiny fraction? Also does it sound like I’ve probably diagnosed the issues correctly and what needs to be done (shave the top of the hand a hair and add a hair to the bottom hook)?
Thanks!