Help fixing AR lower. JB Weld Question

Name Taken · Apr 6, 2015

UrgentFury said:
P I am not registering a rifle in that state. You are going to have to find it before you have to take it from me. I'm not going to make it any easier for them...

You don't register rifles in this state (well unless you move from another state with a pre-ban weapon) but you can cash and carry MANY AR-15's and their variants.

You aren't doing anything special or avoiding any "registration" by milling around with mills.

Bolts Rock · Apr 6, 2015

Always sneak up on final depth and check the depth stop every hole.

SRD · Apr 6, 2015

Marine-Tex for boogering up a mistake is 100x better than JB Weld,try these;

pilotguy299 · Apr 6, 2015

mopar92 said:
Nope not a gun so no specialized destruction.

Looks like the fire control pocket is drilled, and that the hammer and trigger pin holes are drilled.

Pretty sure that once the fire control pocket is cut, that ATF considers it a firearm.

That aside, I wouldn't waste too much time on this one. Clean up the trigger hole, and drop a .22lr upper on it and shoot it.

303_enfield · Apr 6, 2015

Not a load bearing area. Your just making a high speed lower that lets all the crap and blown primers fall out. Now, go an practice some more.

UrgentFury · Apr 6, 2015

SRD said:
Marine-Tex for boogering up a mistake is 100x better than JB Weld,try these;

Never heard of Marine-Tex before. Thanks, I thought about getting some stop collars but forgot. The mill has a stop though, so I've been using that.

303_enfield said:
Not a load bearing area. Your just making a high speed lower that lets all the crap and blown primers fall out. Now, go an practice some more.

Thanks for the encouragement! I will.

pilotguy299 said:
... Pretty sure that once the fire control pocket is cut, that ATF considers it a firearm.

That aside, I wouldn't waste too much time on this one. Clean up the trigger hole, and drop a .22lr upper on it and shoot it.

That is what I was thinking... thanks, the .22LR is a good idea and likely what i'll do with this one.

inkd · Apr 6, 2015

Paint it red and hang it from some fishing line right in front of your equipment. That way you have a visual reminder of your mistake.

I've got enough red 1911 parts to build a damn near fully non-functional pistol.

outrider58 · Apr 6, 2015

UrgentFury said:
Never heard of Marine-Tex before. Thanks, I thought about getting some stop collars but forgot. The mill has a stop though, so I've been using that.

...to great effect, too!

Just kidding

ROBAR35 · Apr 6, 2015

Libtard gun buy back.... What do you think guys :innocent0

psucobra96 · Apr 6, 2015

get it welded back up, grind flat and sand smooth and start over.

ROBAR35 · Apr 6, 2015

psucobra96 said:
get it welded back up, grind flat and sand smooth and start over.

That looks to me like a forged lower and if it is more the likely 7075 heat treated aluminum. Welding on that lower is a no go. :tdown:

clandestine · Apr 6, 2015

UrgentFury said:
Never heard of Marine-Tex before. Thanks, I thought about getting some stop collars but forgot. The mill has a stop though, so I've been using that.

Thanks for the encouragement! I will.

That is what I was thinking... thanks, the .22LR is a good idea and likely what i'll do with this one.

Unless you use a pack trigger, you need support on the bottom for the Trigger Spring to function properly.

If you use that it needs a plate installed or pins installed on the side for the trigger springs to rest against.

UrgentFury · Apr 6, 2015

inkd said:
Paint it red and hang it from some fishing line right in front of your equipment. That way you have a visual reminder of your mistake.

I've got enough red 1911 parts to build a damn near fully non-functional pistol.

Ha! Did you make a 1911 from 80%? I have seen those too.

outrider58 said:
...to great effect, too!

I know...

ROBAR35 said:
Libtard gun buy back.... What do you think guys

Not sure I follow...

ROBAR35 said:
That looks to me like a forged lower and if it is more the likely 7075 heat treated aluminum. Welding on that lower is a no go.

Correct, it is in fact 7075 and I don't have access nor desire to TIG.

clandestine said:
Unless you use a pack trigger, you need support on the bottom for the Trigger Spring to function properly.

If you use that it needs a plate installed or pins installed on the side for the trigger springs to rest against.

I understand. To continue with the learning experience I ended up cleaning/degreasing and roughing up the holes with a box cutter blade and sand paper. I will fill with JB weld and machine again to see if I can use for a .22LR plinker.

No one has really commented on the original question of regular JB Weld vs the putty in terms of application and strength so considering the overall FUBAR condition of the piece I am trying the putty and I'll see how it goes.

boricuamaximus · Apr 6, 2015

clandestine said:
Its dead.

I see you call and raise you a

DaemonAssassin · Apr 6, 2015

UrgentFury said:
Ha! Did you make a 1911 from 80%? I have seen those too.

I know...

Not sure I follow...

Correct, it is in fact 7075 and I don't have access nor desire to TIG.

I understand. To continue with the learning experience I ended up cleaning/degreasing and roughing up the holes with a box cutter blade and sand paper. I will fill with JB weld and machine again to see if I can use for a .22LR plinker.

No one has really commented on the original question of regular JB Weld vs the putty in terms of application and strength so considering the overall FUBAR condition of the piece I am trying the putty and I'll see how it goes.

I think clandestine is recommending that you not use it... If he says it is dead, then that means not even he can fix it. Listen to clandestine, he knows what he speaks of. Just don't ask him to help you with a 40 cal... :sad20:

UrgentFury · Apr 6, 2015

DaemonAssassin said:
I think clandestine is recommending that you not use it... If he says it is dead, then that means not even he can fix it. Listen to clandestine, he knows what he speaks of. Just don't ask him to help you with a 40 cal...

I see.

lsw · Apr 6, 2015

ROBAR35 said:
That looks to me like a forged lower and if it is more the likely 7075 heat treated aluminum. Welding on that lower is a no go.

Plus for what a welding shop would charge you could buy a stripped (100%) lower.

ROBAR35 · Apr 6, 2015

lsw said:
Plus for what a welding shop would charge you could buy a stripped (100%) lower.

Yep and our shop wouldn't touch it.

Armadillofz1 · Apr 6, 2015

mopar92 said:
Nope not a gun so no specialized destruction.

I'd say perhaps not. The second that lower went from an 80% lower to a 80.000001% lower (the first shaving of aliuminum coming off), it became a firearm in the eyes of those that matter.

ROBAR35 · Apr 6, 2015

Armadillofz1 said:
I'd say perhaps not. The second that lower went from an 80% lower to a 80.000001% lower (the first shaving of aliuminum coming off), it became a firearm in the eyes of those that matter.

That's true, I say jb it up put a cheap LPK in it and wait for the next buy back

Help fixing AR lower. JB Weld Question

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