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Old August 6th, 2018, 12:40 AM #1
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Wear in pin and safety selector holes in 7075 80% lower?

Will the un-anodized pin and safety selector holes drilled in 80% 7075 lowers wear faster than the anodized holes in a complete stripped lower that you would purchase through an FFL.
I guess my question is -- does the anodizing offer some degree of wear resistance or is this a non-issue?
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Old August 6th, 2018, 12:50 AM #2
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Non-issue. Anodizing is extremely thin. It does resist wear but for what you are talking about it's fine.
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Old August 6th, 2018, 07:00 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My Toy View Post
Will the un-anodized pin and safety selector holes drilled in 80% 7075 lowers wear faster than the anodized holes in a complete stripped lower that you would purchase through an FFL.
I guess my question is -- does the anodizing offer some degree of wear resistance or is this a non-issue?
You can buy pin gauges for checking those if you are worried. PM Clandestine(Chad) for the appropriate sizes for go and no-go gauging.
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Old August 6th, 2018, 08:29 AM #4
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Keeping them well lubed, that should minimize the amount of wear, see Clandestine's tread for some good lubrication information (https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=190079), there is also a lot of good info on his SOTAR web site.
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Old August 6th, 2018, 09:04 PM #5
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Even if the holes do somehow wear out of spec 50,000 rounds/50 years from now, you can always drill out the holes larger and insert bushings.
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Old August 7th, 2018, 10:28 AM #6
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Most rarely use the selector switch so wear should not be an issue. If you are concerned about the trigger and hammer pins, try a set of anti-roll pins. They do not rotate with use so wear on the lower is eliminated. I did one polymer lower and used them on it just for that reason.
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Old August 7th, 2018, 11:07 AM #7
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The holes will wear faster without anodizing. Anodizing is where the hardness lies in uppers and lowers. You can send your lower out for anodizing, but it needs to be marked.

The safety should not be an issue as long as you keep it lubricated.

If you want it anodized New Frontier Armory charges $15.00 for lower anodizing. They do really good work too.
https://www.newfrontierarmory.com/sh...izing-service/


As far an antirotation pins go, dont use them. They are snake oil.
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Old August 7th, 2018, 03:10 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
The holes will wear faster without anodizing. Anodizing is where the hardness lies in uppers and lowers. You can send your lower out for anodizing, but it needs to be marked.

The safety should not be an issue as long as you keep it lubricated.

If you want it anodized New Frontier Armory charges $15.00 for lower anodizing. They do really good work too.
https://www.newfrontierarmory.com/sh...izing-service/


As far an antirotation pins go, dont use them. They are snake oil.
I will disagree with chad on them being snake oil, they are not necessary in most cases and attention needs to be paid when installing. But if your lower is not anodized do not use anti roll pins. They are usually stainless steel and will corrode when in contact with raw aluminum. Even in finished lower you have to be careful if you just whack the anti roll in with a hammer and chip the anodizing it is bare aluminum on ss. Also with any pin lube especially the ends and inside the trigger and hammer
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Old August 7th, 2018, 04:48 PM #9
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The anti-walk pins I have on my polymer lower are coated on all surfaces so direct contact with aluminum should not be a problem for those that choose to use them. Make sure to check the finish on anything that will be in direct contact with the lower as jrumann59 has pointed out. Different metals usually do not play nicely with each other and corrosion may become an issue where they touch. Aluminum can be particularly vulnerable.
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Old August 8th, 2018, 10:46 AM #10
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Would using something like Loctite 242 (Blue) which is supposed to allow Loctited parts to be removed with hand tools be an alternative to anti-rotation pins for the hammer/trigger pin?
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