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Old August 9th, 2018, 09:40 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iH8DemLibz View Post
That stuff isn't expensive.

No wood project worth working on is worth taking the chance.

The last thing a person wants is a finish that won't fully cure. And by fully, I mean fully. Not just a surface cure.

Toss it and buy a fresh can.
agreed
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Old August 9th, 2018, 09:42 PM #12
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My dad used to boil tung oil or Lindseed oil, if he didn’t like the viscosity. However, as cheap as it is, I would just buy a new small can. Wife may not like you using her stove for that process — may not like the pungent aroma of boiling oil.
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Old August 9th, 2018, 09:43 PM #13
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Not worth saving $5 for new finish on a $1,000 gun. IMHO
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Old August 9th, 2018, 09:55 PM #14
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Quote:
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Not worth saving $5 for new finish on a $1,000 gun. IMHO
Agee... When I got M1A, I picked up a small 6oz can at ACE. More than enough for the 5 applications, still quite a bit left over.
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Old August 10th, 2018, 08:46 AM #15
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If you are a frugal minimalist, you can take it to Lowes and maybe they can shake the can for you in their paint shaking/mixing machines. I'm sure they'll just do it for free and the solids may reblend back into the rest of the soup...


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Old August 10th, 2018, 08:52 AM #16
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Sorry for the thread jack....
I have a new CMP Stock on my Garand. Is oiling the stock required, or just for appearance?
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Old August 10th, 2018, 09:01 AM #17
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As mentioned strain and test it on scrap. If it fully cures use it. If not pitch it and buy new. When you buy new also get a can of Bloxygen and squirt a little in the can before you seal it back up. I recommend a trip to Woodcraft for both.

Whoever mentioned driers, pure tung oil has no driers in it.
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Old August 10th, 2018, 10:13 AM #18
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Quote:
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Sorry for the thread jack....
I have a new CMP Stock on my Garand. Is oiling the stock required, or just for appearance?
I don't think it's required but it will offer a level of protection for the wood, and it will (imho) improve the appearance.
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Old August 10th, 2018, 10:17 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolts Rock View Post
As mentioned strain and test it on scrap. If it fully cures use it. If not pitch it and buy new. When you buy new also get a can of Bloxygen and squirt a little in the can before you seal it back up. I recommend a trip to Woodcraft for both.

Whoever mentioned driers, pure tung oil has no driers in it.
Thanks. One other bit of info, this can was exposed to near of just below freezing temps in my garage; probably did not help.

I did test on some scrap wood and on the inside of one of the hand guards; no discoloration; will see how it dries. The solid stuff seems to wipe off (or in, hard to tell) after application.
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Old August 10th, 2018, 10:45 AM #20
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Scrap wood treated last night with it; uncoated (top) versus coated (bottom) on pine scrap. Looks ok to me.
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