Deal on Polymer80 compact.

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Did you remove ALL of the material in the barrel block area?? I had a little hangup like that if I let the slide go forward slowly and I had left a little material on one side of the cutout area. I think the action spring was hanging up on that. It quit doing that after I went back and cleaned that up a little and works fine now, nice and smooth, regardless of how far I move the slide rearward.

I dry fire practice and sometimes just reset the trigger with my strong hand, so often I only partially rack the slide, no hangups at all now..

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

The other possibility is, with a new barrel, it may just still be a little tight locking into battery. A bit of shooting it, or just working it by hand may free that up over time.

Shoobedoo · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I'm beginning to think that it has something to do with the recoil spring, if I put the slide on with on barrel or recoil spring it seems to slide nicely.
When assembled if I pull the slide back about halfway and let go it goes perfect, if I pull all the way back and let go it stops about an inch from going into battery.
It seem to almost be under spring tension like the trigger spring is keeping it from going forward.

Try just the slide, with no barrel or recoil spring, you'll also need to remove the slide cover plate, striker assembly, and plunger from the slide to try this. If the slide will move freely through it's normal full rearward travel in this configuration then I'm stumped as to what's causing this.

Sticky could be on to something regarding the barrel block channel, you can check that pretty easily by just removing the recoil spring assembly from the slide and see if it clears this area with the slide off.

BUFF7MM · Mar 26, 2017

Shoobedoo said:
Try just the slide, with no barrel or recoil spring, you'll also need to remove the slide cover plate, striker assembly, and plunger from the slide to try this. If the slide will move freely through it's normal full rearward travel in this configuration then I'm stumped as to what's causing this.

Sticky could be on to something regarding the barrel block channel, you can check that pretty easily by just removing the recoil spring assembly from the slide and see if it clears this area with the slide off.

I tore it completely apart and reamed holes cleaned up every area that I milled, it's still a little sticky and I'm leaning toward I'm not sure. I'm going to get it to the range and run it and see where it lands. For the record it's a 23 slide with a storm lake 357 Sig barrel

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I tore it completely apart and reamed holes cleaned up every area that I milled, it's still a little sticky and I'm leaning toward I'm not sure. I'm going to get it to the range and run it and see where it lands. For the record it's a 23 slide with a storm lake 357 Sig barrel

Is it a new slide and/or barrel? I'd lean a little towards = shoot it when you can and see how it does. May just need a little breaking in..

I can't really tell from that pic if the slide/frame and rails themselves look normal. There should be plenty of clearance along both sides of the slide to the frame, so it shouldn't bind on the frame at all.

pilotguy299 · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I'm beginning to think that it has something to do with the recoil spring, if I put the slide on with on barrel or recoil spring it seems to slide nicely.
When assembled if I pull the slide back about halfway and let go it goes perfect, if I pull all the way back and let go it stops about an inch from going into battery.
It seem to almost be under spring tension like the trigger spring is keeping it from going forward.

From looking at the pic you posted, your slide stop isnt all the way up either. At least not on the right side of the gun.

Shoobedoo · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I tore it completely apart and reamed holes cleaned up every area that I milled, it's still a little sticky and I'm leaning toward I'm not sure. I'm going to get it to the range and run it and see where it lands. For the record it's a 23 slide with a storm lake 357 Sig barrel

Well, it's a start anyway. FWIW I'm running a G23 Gen 3 slide and a Storm Lake 9mm conversion barrel with no problems. I assume you are not trying to run a Gen 4 slide because that could be your problem right there, I think they specifically say it's designed for a Gen 3 slide. I would be curious to know if your front/rear rails are level, have you put a straight edge on them to check..??

To be fair, my slide and barrel were both brand new, and with a brand new frame and parts as well, things were a bit on the "tight" side, not binding mind you, but I was getting an occasional stove pipe with my handloads which are loaded on the mild side. Switching to #15 lb recoil spring resolved the stovepiping with the handloads, and it eats full powered factory ammo with no issues using the standard #17 lb recoil spring, so there was some "breaking in" going on with mine for sure, but nothing serious.

Let us know how it goes and if you're able to pinpoint the issue, whatever it is.

BUFF7MM · Mar 26, 2017

Sticky said:
Is it a new slide and/or barrel? I'd lean a little towards = shoot it when you can and see how it does. May just need a little breaking in..

I can't really tell from that pic if the slide/frame and rails themselves look normal. There should be plenty of clearance along both sides of the slide to the frame, so it shouldn't bind on the frame at all.

Old 23 slide, new storm lake 357 barrel.

BUFF7MM · Mar 26, 2017

Shoobedoo said:
Well, it's a start anyway. FWIW I'm running a G23 Gen 3 slide and a Storm Lake 9mm conversion barrel with no problems. I assume you are not trying to run a Gen 4 slide because that could be your problem right there, I think they specifically say it's designed for a Gen 3 slide. I would be curious to know if your front/rear rails are level, have you put a straight edge on them to check..??

To be fair, my slide and barrel were both brand new, and with a brand new frame and parts as well, things were a bit on the "tight" side, not binding mind you, but I was getting an occasional stove pipe with my handloads which are loaded on the mild side. Switching to #15 lb recoil spring resolved the stovepiping with the handloads, and it eats full powered factory ammo with no issues using the standard #17 lb recoil spring, so there was some "breaking in" going on with mine for sure, but nothing serious.

Let us know how it goes and if you're able to pinpoint the issue, whatever it is.

I checked the rails and they are running true. I put an 18 lb stainless guide Rod assembly in it, but it acts the same with the OEM recoil assembly.
It will have to wait until I get it out to the range to run it a bit.
It seems to be getting better as I play with it, and I'll post back when it gets a range trip.

Shoobedoo · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I checked the rails and they are running true. I put an 18 lb stainless guide Rod assembly in it, but it acts the same with the OEM recoil assembly.
It will have to wait until I get it out to the range to run it a bit.
It seems to be getting better as I play with it, and I'll post back when it gets a range trip.

Sounds like you're on the right track, and it's a good sign that your rails are true.

The only thing I could add at this point is to lube up the rail guides in the slide, and the rails on the frame generously, then work it manually a bunch of times. Make sure it's well lubed like that when you hit the range, it doesn't need to be dripping oil or oozing grease out the sides, just well lubed for the first few trips out to the range. I used white lithium grease on mine the first couple of times, and now I'm just using ordinary gun oil. Good luck and let us know how she runs.

BUFF7MM · Mar 26, 2017

Shoobedoo said:
Sounds like you're on the right track, and it's a good sign that your rails are true.

The only thing I could add at this point is to lube up the rail guides in the slide, and the rails on the frame generously, then work it manually a bunch of times. Make sure it's well lubed like that when you hit the range, it doesn't need to be dripping oil or oozing grease out the sides, just well lubed for the first few trips out to the range. I used white lithium grease on mine the first couple of times, and now I'm just using ordinary gun oil. Good luck and let us know how she runs.

Everything was lubed from the get go. I'll give it a whirl in a few weeks when I get time.

Fox123 · Mar 26, 2017

Check to make sure the rear rails are actually 90 degree bends as well.

There were photos circulating where someone got rails where the bend was only about 80-85 degrees and not bent all the way.

Mine look like after the press brake they ran an endmill on the bottom side to make a square corner.

cantstop · Mar 27, 2017

I was wondering if there was any way to transfer these in Maryland once they are built. I'm more curious about gifting to a relative and inheritance than actual sale.

Shoobedoo · Mar 27, 2017

cantstop said:
I was wondering if there was any way to transfer these in Maryland once they are built. I'm more curious about gifting to a relative and inheritance than actual sale.

At a minimum to stay legal you would need to have it serialized as per BATF requirements. The compact frame has the metal serial number plate just like a factory Glock, so that makes things easier. IIRC there are specific BATF requirements as to the depth of the engraving and the number of letters and/or numbers that make up a legal serial number, ie. you can't just engrave your initials or less than a certain number of letters and/or numbers. I'm not sure if there are other state level requirements you'd have to meet to make it legal for gifting/transfer under Maryland law, maybe someone else can comment on that.

Sticky · Mar 27, 2017

cantstop said:
I was wondering if there was any way to transfer these in Maryland once they are built. I'm more curious about gifting to a relative and inheritance than actual sale.

You can sell or transfer a firearm that you manufactured, but you have to engrave it in accordance with the BATFE requirements..

https://www.atf.gov/firearms/firear...rms-ammunition-firearms-verification-overview

Sticky · Mar 27, 2017

If you have an NFA trust, the best bet would be to will your other non-nfa firearms, ammo, equipment, etc.. to the trust upon your death, then it can be transferred through the trust to your beneficiary.

Bountied · Mar 27, 2017

I had a recoil spring binding issue with my G17 build. I re-dremmeled the spring channel and polished it now it runs great. I have about 500-600 rounds through it and only a couple stove pipes in the first 50 rounds.

lmorrison17 · Mar 27, 2017

j_h_smith said:
I'm only reporting what the vendor told me. Not sure how accurate the information is or where he got it from. I started the conversation asking if they were going to make a G26 version and he said yes. He then told me that the readymods on his table were all he would be able to get. He said the textured frames are what is shipping now.

I don't know how true that information was.

If you want a readymod frame, there were many of them available at the show.

Do you remember the vendor that had the ready mods?
Brownels sent everyone who ordered the readymod the wrong frame.
They said they wont get them till mid late april.

Sticky · Mar 27, 2017

Saw a couple of posts from P80 today, sounded like they were going to introduce some compact frames in colors in a few days (probably textured) and in a week or two they are doing another run of readymods. They said V2 Glock 17 frames in a few months... :thumbsup:

j_h_smith · Mar 27, 2017

lmorrison17 said:
Do you remember the vendor that had the ready mods?
Brownels sent everyone who ordered the readymod the wrong frame.
They said they wont get them till mid late april.

I don't have a name, but he only sold the polymer80 pistol and AR frames. I do not believe he sold anything else.

Deal on Polymer80 compact.

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