Sub $50 knives...

I've gone through more Gerber Para Frames than I care to count. Main issues for me is the fact that the blades dull so quickly on them. I have a Kershaw Leek that is sharp as can be, but the blade tip is so fragile it broke in just a couple of days of hard use. Meanwhile, my $16 Walmart pickup of a Kershaw Kuro tanto blade has lasted me years through thick and thin. She ain't gonna win any beauty pageants, but she works, stays sharp, and isn't fragile in the least.

All three of my folders are Gerber's.

Two Fast-Draws. One has the fine blade. The other is serrated. Both have thumb studs and are assisted openers.

The third is the Gator model. With a gut hook. For field dressing Bambi without cutting into the stomach.

The Gator has a strange rubbery and textured grip that never gets slippery. Even when covered in blood.

SOG twitch II is my beater, it serves it purpose.

It might be cheating, but I got my Spyderco Delica 4 on ebay for just at $40. It was used, but not abused, and sharpened easily (VG10 steel).

New... Spyderco Tenacious at $40 from WM and I agree with the Kershaw Blur... but I spent over $50 on it.

For a decent beater I have several Ganzos. One in every glove box and motorcycle tool kit. Great knife for twenny dalla.

One thing to mention, I wouldn't consider ANY lower end knife that has a sheet metal liner lock, they have a habit of disengaging or jumping between the tang and other liner allowing the blade to suddenly close partially or fully. Thick machined liner locks like the Spidy Tenacius has, most frame locks or other styles don't have that particular problem. Had a few stitches in my hand as a result with a failed Buck crosslock, a couple others I worked with in the shop had close calls or stitches, when trying to pierce something with the tip. This is part of what sold me on midlock spydercos as my "cheap/beater" knife of choice, it's a simple lock, can still close with 1 hand, ambi, your grip holds the lever in the locked position, and almost universally, the blade will snap and fall off of the handle before the lock would allow it to close on your fingers.

I had been carrying a Gerber Paraframe, the larger one, USA made. Recently upgraded to the Kershaw Blur. So far I’ve cut myself twice lol. Sharp as #$*&. I like the speed safe feature and the light weight. Locks up tight, no play.

67temp said:

Previously I had several Gerber Paraframes after melting and bending several of those I stepped up to Kershaws.

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The Gerber knives are some of the worst knives I've seen, and that includes all the no-name horrors that circulate on Amazon and eBay! I bought one Paraframe because it looked lightweight and, because it was a name I recognized, I thought it might be pretty good.

Wrooooong!

I bought a computer part in a hard plastic bubble and when I got home, I took my Paraframe and attempted to open the plastic. But no matter how hard I poked and prodded the bloody thing, it would not get a purchase. The blade bounced off of the surface and no matter how much I tried to get the tip of the blade in, it just wasn't going to give me satisfaction. So I went to my knife drawer and grabbed my favorite EDC, one I should have had on me -- my trusty Spyderco Endura with a black nitride coat! It bit into the plastic easily and it neatly sliced through the heavy plastic with the VG-10 steel blade. I never used the Paraframe again, nor will I ever buy anything made by Gerber except baby food! (And it's not the same Gerber!)

The reviews I've seen on YouTube are very rough now on AUS8, but with good heat treat I think the reviews aren't telling the whole story. As someone who knows both the strengths and weaknesses of AUS8, I'm the first to admit that Cold Steel's CTS-XHP is a far better steel, but at the same time I don't see anyone hammering on it in the wilderness! People aren't going to spend the extra $$$ for the XHP, then start thumping on it in harsh conditions or prying with it. But I've seen survivalists beat the living daylights out of AUS8, hammering it, twisting the tip in frozen wood, even using it in folding knives to baton with! And with the Tri-Ad locks CS uses, AUS8 takes just about everything someone can throw at it! I don't know how CTS-BD1 holds up to this same treatment, but it may hold up fine. But if I certainly wouldn't trade in my AUS8 blades for a better steel until I found out.

I also would never buy any knife with a 440A blade unless it was made by Cold Steel. I bought an old Recon 1, a Night Force and another model when the company bought a batch of 440A. But if heat treated just right, the steel works! In fact, those knives were some of the only ones I've had that nicked me when I thought I was being careful! The vast majority of 440A knives are junk. They can't take an edge, much less keep it. Cold Steel hardened their 440A knives to about as hard as they could and the things were horrifically sharp. I still EDC one of their old 440A Recon 1s and I love it. It also keeps an edge, which I still can't figure out. It goes against all conventional wisdom and few people believe me.

Esee. https://www.knifeworks.com/esee-exp...8-plain-blade-black-frn-stainless-handle.html

Spyderco Tenacious https://www.knifeworks.com/spyderco...8cr13mov-plain-blade-carbon-fiber-handle.html

I picked up a Kershaw Chill using credit card points. Didn't cost a thing and is really nice for a 23 dollar knife. Using it at work here and there and won't be a huge bummer if it gets lost.

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Ever...=UTF8&qid=1520129804&sr=8-11&keywords=kershaw

My common EDC is a stainless Opinel #8 walnut or an Opinel #9 carbon. Both are razor sharp and lock securely for my use. They are very light and even the walnut is less than $20 on Amazon.

I also have a Gerber LST that was like $25. Good knife and USA made.

Just picked up a bested lion off massdrop for 32. D2 steel with g10 scales.

https://www.bladehq.com/item--Bestech-Knives-Lion-Liner-Lock--76813

Kershaw Fatback

Yoshi said:

Thanks! All excellent choices.

I was looking at these but never heard of them.

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That's a lot for a Chinese liner lock IMHO. D2 tool steel is a very durable steel though, won't hold a razor edge like S30V and similar will but will hold a good sharp edge longer. Of course a lot depends on the heat treating too. Even the best alloy is crap if not heat treated right.

For price point, I like the Smith and Wesson Magic assists made by Schrade. Have two and they are both well made and I love the action. Have some Kershaw assists too. Very good price point knives.

I have a nice Buck folder and a Benchmade, but this little cheapy on my keys gets the most usage by far. It was part of a lot I bought from Cutlery Corner watching late night TV after a night of boozing. 200 knives for $200.

I carry and use a Buck 845 all the time. I like it enough to have picked up 2 more off of eBay.

I was in a SOTAR build class and one of the guys had an Esee that he really likes. He works in construction and uses it daily. If I needed another hard-use knife, that would be on my short list.

alucard0822 said:

Thick machined liner locks like the Spidy Tenacius has, most frame locks or other styles don't have that particular problem

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So are you saying the Spyderco Tenacious has a less reliable liner lock that other knifes, or that it does not have that problem?

Saw a grey battle-worn Kershaw Leek on sale at wally world, couldn't resist picking up another. I've had at least 4 of them over the past 10+ years.

Has it's pros/cons, but for a 'beater', it checks all my boxes. Small enough to disappear, enough blade to do what I ask it to, edge cleans up quickly. And it's cheap enough that I don't lose any sleep if it goes walkabout.

I love how my Benchmade Volli fits my hands, but I don't carry that one much since I found out my Matco/Benchmade dealer got me for an extra $30 on it.

Like the SOG and Spyderco Tenacious for EDC.