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  • DSC729

    Active Member
    Aug 18, 2012
    244
    Mo County
    I’m glad I got 2 of them! Wish a had a couple hundred bucks to play with atm, I’d score a couple more before they’re all gone!!
     

    Cochise

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 5, 2008
    1,384
    Rockville
    Here is my Pieper short 10

    Here is my Pieper short 10 gauge hammer gun. Its chambered for 2 7/8" shells, originally black powder and damascus barrels with steel chambers.
     

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    Cochise

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 5, 2008
    1,384
    Rockville
    And here's the big 10

    And here is my big 10. It's an Ithaca NID chambered for 10 gauge magnum. This is the gun that Olin invented the 10 gauge magnum for. Note the message on the original paper shell. They only made about 800 of these, Elmer Keith got the first one
     

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    Cochise

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 5, 2008
    1,384
    Rockville
    and some French

    so, they say the French imitate nobody and nobody imitates the French. Gun 1 is a Darne sliding breech in 16 gauge. Instead of the barrels dropping like a normal double, the breech slides back. Its actually much stronger and a great idea.
    The 2nd gun is a Manufrance Ideal in 12 gauge. It has a retractable sling in the stock, and instead of a top lever, the trigger looking projection behind the trigger guard opens the gun.
     

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    Bertfish

    Throw bread on me
    Mar 13, 2013
    17,662
    White Marsh, MD
    For those who don't regularly visit the C&R sub forum:

    20170730_222617.jpg


    Lefever (Ithaca) Nitro Special 12ga. Serial puts her production date at 1923. Right is cylinder, left is full. Standard cock on open with automatic safety upon cocking.
    Triggers are crisp, lots of lockup left, and barrels are perfectly on face. Lots of life left in this puppy!

    I like the look of that - honest wear but in really nice shape.
     

    Bertfish

    Throw bread on me
    Mar 13, 2013
    17,662
    White Marsh, MD
    For those of us short on SxS knowledge what are things to look for when buying an old double barrel? I would think you'd want to ensure that the action locked up tightly and that shells were ejected smoothly but is there anything else? One of these years I want to get an old double barrel less for looking at and more for occasional shooting. Has to have the "right look", though - one day I'll find one.
     

    Cochise

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 5, 2008
    1,384
    Rockville
    The big stuff with doubles are the gun needs to be sound (tight and on face) and have decent barrels (no major pitting, not honed too thin, preferable not cut and with original chokes and chambers) and sound wood. On most older guns the wood is more fragile than the metal, it's often oil soaked or dry and cracked. The metal if unmolested will be fine with loads originally meant for the gun when new.
    American stuff is all about original finish, English a refinish is considered just proper maintenance
     

    tallen702

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 3, 2012
    5,119
    In the boonies of MoCo
    Here is my Pieper short 10 gauge hammer gun. Its chambered for 2 7/8" shells, originally black powder and damascus barrels with steel chambers.

    And here is my big 10. It's an Ithaca NID chambered for 10 gauge magnum. This is the gun that Olin invented the 10 gauge magnum for. Note the message on the original paper shell. They only made about 800 of these, Elmer Keith got the first one

    so, they say the French imitate nobody and nobody imitates the French. Gun 1 is a Darne sliding breech in 16 gauge. Instead of the barrels dropping like a normal double, the breech slides back. Its actually much stronger and a great idea.
    The 2nd gun is a Manufrance Ideal in 12 gauge. It has a retractable sling in the stock, and instead of a top lever, the trigger looking projection behind the trigger guard opens the gun.


    All nice pieces! I've only seen those French sliding actions in books. Really neat to see on in real photos!

    I like the look of that - honest wear but in really nice shape.

    For those of us short on SxS knowledge what are things to look for when buying an old double barrel? I would think you'd want to ensure that the action locked up tightly and that shells were ejected smoothly but is there anything else? One of these years I want to get an old double barrel less for looking at and more for occasional shooting. Has to have the "right look", though - one day I'll find one.

    Thanks! I picked it up for a decent price last year at one of the Redding Auction Service auctions up in Gettysburg. Believe it or not, I haven't had a chance to fire it yet. I took it to Hafer's to have a new recoil pad fitted since the buttplate on it was just cheap plastic (not original to the gun) and the cut someone had made on it wasn't plumb. They trued up the cut and put a nice Pachmayer White Line on it which will help soak up the recoil and makes it look that much nicer.

    As for what to look for, Cochise hit most of the major points. I'd add in that you want the top lever to be to the right of center (preferable) or center at the least. Anything left of center is going to require having the bite re-worked to achieve a proper lockup. Even if it's got good lock-up, you need to make sure it's on-face. To do so, remove the forend, grab the gun by the barrels, and give it a shake. If you feel slop between the barrels and the standing breech, it's off-face and will need to be refaced. Again, more bite/hook work, or a new hinge pin if it's really bad. While the forend is off for the shake-test, hold the barrels by the hook (where it hooks into the hinge pin on the action side of the equation) and tap the barrels with a brass or wood hammer, or even give it a good flick with your fingernail. They should ring like bells. Anything dull or clunky sounding means that the rib has come unsoldered. It's not a difficult job, but it's a costly one as it requires a strip-down, solder, and re-blue of the entire front end of the gun since solder won't stick to blued metal. Lastly, make sure the barrels aren't Damascus or "twist" steel if you're looking for a shooter that you can use off-the-shelf modern ammo with. While you can roll-your-own black powder loads, and some companies make low-power loads for those older guns, it's a pain if you're looking for something to shoot on the regular.

    There are a couple of nice SxS's up for auction at Redding on the 21st. Two LeFever Nitro Specials like mine. First one is a single-trigger model (nice to have) second is a 20ga double-trigger. There's also a really nice looking Stevens 311 Series H in really nice condition. (midway down the page).

    I didn't think I'd be at an auction anytime soon, but I might be wrong. There are some nice pieces in that auction that aren't huge names. There's also a Fox that is crying out for restoration.
     

    engineerbrian

    JMB fan club
    Sep 3, 2010
    10,149
    Fredneck
    I found this old Model 11 on Instagram. I hate that someone chopped it, but i think it turned out nice overall
     

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    tallen702

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 3, 2012
    5,119
    In the boonies of MoCo
    Tristar Raptor

    $290 on rollback at WallyWorld. Figured it was about time I picked up a modern autoloader with tubes and can handle steel better than all my fixed-choke classics.

    20180128_214943.jpg


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    Fit and finish is surprisingly good for a low-cost Turkish gun. I'm assuming it's an extruded aluminum receiver, but the whole package is rather nice. Bolt is classic tilting lock (it's like a smaller version of my FAL bolt) the machining lines are all crisp and clean, no blemishes on anything, etc. This particular one was made by Kral.

    It's got a nice 5 year warranty as well (1 year parts and labor, 4 years thereafter of free parts).

    Everything I've read and seen online is that they're pretty decent machines. I wanted something I wouldn't worry too much about since I hunt ducks and geese from a kayak and canoe, so this fit the bill. So far it's decent. Need to hit the range with it though and see if I need to make some stock adjustments for point of aim. I usually need to take a little off the LOP.
     
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    Alphabrew

    Binary male Lesbian
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 27, 2013
    40,757
    Woodbine
    $290 on rollback at WallyWorld. Figured it was about time I picked up a modern autoloader with tubes and can handle steel better than all my fixed-choke classics.

    20180128_214943.jpg


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    Fit and finish is surprisingly good for a low-cost Turkish gun. I'm assuming it's an extruded aluminum receiver, but the whole package is rather nice. Bolt is classic tilting lock (it's like a smaller version of my FAL bolt) the machining lines are all crisp and clean, no blemishes on anything, etc. This particular one was made by Kral.

    It's got a nice 5 year warranty as well (1 year parts and labor, 4 years thereafter of free parts).

    Everything I've read and seen online is that they're pretty decent machines. I wanted something I wouldn't worry too much about since I hunt ducks and geese from a kayak and canoe, so this fit the bill. So far it's decent. Need to hit the range with it though and see if I need to make some stock adjustments for point of aim. I usually need to take a little off the LOP.

    Nice. Looks extremely similar to the Weatherby shotties, also made in Turkey
     

    Alphabrew

    Binary male Lesbian
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 27, 2013
    40,757
    Woodbine
    New LE trade wingmaster. South Carroll Sporting Good will have a bunch of these at the HoCo show
     

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    StantonCree

    Watch your beer
    Jan 23, 2011
    23,932
    New LE trade wingmaster. South Carroll Sporting Good will have a bunch of these at the HoCo show

    I hate these. They are so damn beautiful and functional that I think I need one everyone I see them. Then 2 years later I sell them cuz I don't shoot them.

    Just a plain beautiful workhorse.

    As a city cop I personally think the 870 is GOLD
     

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