AR15 Build: Where to start

I’m looking to build an AR15, .223. Only problem is I don’t really know exactly where to start. Where should I start and where have y’all bought your parts? Any special tools? Also, has any every used polymer for the lower? I’ve seen a few but I was told polymer isn’t good for an AR

you can use polymer. New Frontier makes a complete lower you can get from JoeBobOutfitters.

babalou said:

you can use polymer. New Frontier makes a complete lower you can get from JoeBobOutfitters.

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This.
Make sure you find a Maryland FFL to do the transfer if it is coming from an out of state dealer before you place the order. It is often cheaper to buy from a local gun dealer once shipping and transfer fees are included.
Personally I would just buy an aluminum stripped lower from a local dealer and go from there.

(Its that time of year folks)

Osfan93 said:

I’m looking to build an AR15, .223. Only problem is I don’t really know exactly where to start. Where should I start and where have y’all bought your parts? Any special tools? Also, has any every used polymer for the lower? I’ve seen a few but I was told polymer isn’t good for an AR

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Go to your local gun shop and buy a aluminum lower. Beyond that, there is plenty of information on the web with a quick google search on parts vendors.

Start with what configuration and application you want. Precision rifle length or faster handling carbine? This choice will guide stock, trigger, barrel, handguard, and sighting options.

If you opt to build instead buying an entry level AR-15, you may want to look at the Wheeler Armorer’s tool kit. It has what you need to started, but chances are good you will need more or better later on. Add a hammer. good punch set and a bench block.

Where to buy the parts... If you just go out and buy decent blasting grade quality you are better buying the whole arm just get your feet wet. There some decent choices for not a whole lot of money. If you know what you want, watch the usual parts sites, Brownells, Midway, Windham Armory, etc.. Look for prices that fit your budget and allow time to accumulate the parts that fit your budget.

You need to shoot the thing some to learn what you like. The big advantage to a decent assembled arm is it works (should) and you can decipher what you want to change. Once you make some changes a determine what you like...then you spend a little more gathering parts for your AR.





You coukd almost

Don't let your head explode.

https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=23086

I have done one Polymer80 AR and had to do it twice because the first one was out of specifications and an upper could not be attached without difficulty. The second one works fine but will be used only for pistol caliber uppers. A 9mm will be first.

I do not recommend it for your first AR build!

I have one Polymer lower that fractured. IT was out of spec. It got replaced after a long wait. It was the 2nd lower I built and now I know better and would have modified it instead of getting such a tight fit. I even had to sand some of the replacement lower to get tje rear take down pin to fit right.
Now I know even better and I don't bother with them. You don't really save any significant weight worth the polymer lower price. Unless you are buying in bulk and using an at home FFL, as mentioned, going to an IP and getting a metal lower from them works fine IMO.

Buy a complete upper for the first one.

I think a SOTAR build class would be very helpful to you.

DutchV said:

I think a SOTAR build class would be very helpful to you.

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This.

There are so many configurations and options. How in-depth do you want to get in the build? If you want to do the gun from individual pieces, you will need (at a minimum) a punch set, AR armorers wrench, reaction rod, receiver vices, barrel vice. That's to do it right. If you are going to build out the lower, and buy an assembled upper, armorer's wrench and punches.

Decide what you want to do. What config you want the gun in.

I build AR-15s all the time.

I recommend you start with just the stripped lower and get an assembled upper for that first build. Buying a builder's kit with everything but the stripped lower is a good way to go.

To build an AR from a stripped lower you'll need:

• A small hammer like a gunsmith's hammer or jewelers hammer.
• A set of steel punches.
• A set of roll pin punches
• A roll of painter's tape
• An AR-15 castle nut spanner or armorer's wrench with the same

I also recommend a Wheeler Engineering Pivot Pin Detent and Roll Pin install tool (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/9...nt-and-roll-pin-installation-tool-ar-15-steel). This is the best $7 you'll spend in helping do AR-15 builds. Installing the front takedown pin detent requires a little dexterity and you will shoot the detent and the spring across the room to be lost forever eventually. If you do more than one AR-15 build (and you will), invest in this tool. It saves a lot of frustration.

Why the painter's tape? To cover the receiver while you drive in the bolt catch roll pin. This is best done with the receiver horizontal with the roll pin punch laying against the buffer tube threads. That way you won't mar the receiver.

There are plenty of guides online with showing the assembly order. Everyone will develop their own preferred sequence. Mine is:

1. Trigger guard.
2. Magazine release.
3. Front takedown pin.
4. Bolt catch lever.
5. Fire control group.
6. Pistol grip and safety detent.
7. Rear takedown pin, buffer tube and buffer spring retainer.

After that first build, then look at investing doing your own uppers. You need a few more tools and I wouldn't go this route until you're sure. You'll need a bench vise, moly grease, a set of metric and SAE allen wrenches, Phillips and flat head screwdrivers, a Reaction Rod or upper receiver vise (I use a Reaction Rod and a Wheeler Delta upper receiver vise now) and a 1/2" torque wrench. You will definitely need an AR-15 armorer's wrench for this to attach barrel nuts and flash hiders/muzzle brakes. An AR-15 handguard tool is also handy.

I strongly recommend a set of headspace gages if you're building uppers. While headspace is virtually never an issue, it is always a good idea to check a particular barrel and bolt combination for safe headspace.

In terms of parts to buy, sky's the limit. I do everything from budget builds using AR-Stoner, Del-Ton, YHM, Midwest, Magpul and DPMS parts up to precision builds with Geissele, Timney, Aero Precision, White Oak, Shilen, Hart and so on parts. You'll find what you prefer. I've had no problem with budget parts. I have several AR-Stoner brand stainless barrels and they shoot fine. Same goes for lower parts kits and so on.

Most barrels and LPKs are only produced by a handful of companies and sold under different brands. Only the really high end stuff is made in house by a particular company and you'll be paying for it.

So don't get hung up on what people are using. All of my AR-15s except my two factory guns are Franken 15s. Nothing wrong with any of them.

Stick to metal for the lower. It's the standard and they're easy to work with. Also stick to .223/5.56mm for those first builds. Then go crazy with whatever you prefer.

Welcome and be careful! This is addictive.

Matt

Buy an aluminum lower.

You need Headspace gauges. Rent, borrow or buy them. Anyone who says they are not needed does not have much experience or have the wrong gauges. Headspace is off on at least 1 of every 5-10 AR's I work on.

Don't use a reaction rod for assmebly or disassembly. It's a terrible tool that damages index pins. Buy clamshell blocks, a Magpul Bev block, or a Midwest Upper Receiver Rod.

For punches buy Little Crow and Obsidian. Do t use steel punches for installing the hammer or trigger.

You need a ft# torque wrench wench, vise, and a ball pen hammer. The Tapco Armorers Wrench is a good wrench. Better than the Magpul, DPMS, and Real Avid.

Don't use vise grips for installing roll pins.

Much of the videos online are junk. The brownells stuff is pretty good, but could be much better.

clandestine said:

Buy an aluminum lower.

You need Headspace gauges. Rent, borrow or buy them. Anyone who says they are not needed does not have much experience or have the wrong gauges. Headspace is off on at least 1 of every 5-10 AR's I work on.

Don't use a reaction rod for assmebly or disassembly. It's a terrible tool that damages index pins. Buy clamshell blocks, a Magpul Bev block, or a Midwest Upper Receiver Rod.

For punches buy Little Crow and Obsidian. Do t use steel punches for installing the hammer or trigger.

You need a ft# torque wrench wench, vise, and a ball pen hammer. The Tapco Armorers Wrench is a good wrench. Better than the Magpul, DPMS, and Real Avid.

Don't use vise grips for installing roll pins.

Much of the videos online are junk. The brownells stuff is pretty good, but could be much better.

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^^^^ Listen to this guy. He knows his stuff.







Even when he talks about how Miltec is a excellent cologne.