all this talk about Cans has me wondering has anyone used the SIG SRD338TI? I want to get a suppressor that will be use it on all my toys and this one seems to fit the bill. But I'm just wondering about matches up.
The OP is back. Hope everyone had a good time piggybacking on to my thread
Took my barrel to a different gunsmith. The previous threading was true, the bore was centered in the threading and things looked good enough. He trued the barrel shoulder and shortened the threaded portion to 0.4". Everything looked good with the dial indicator, until we threaded the suppressor on and it visibly wobbled.
Took it off, double checked everything again, put it back on and the run out was different!. He squared up the part that threads onto the barrel and the barrel end of the can. He halved the run out but it was always different every time we loosened and tightened the suppressor.
His theory is the threads in the can itself are not square and tightening the can introduces the run out.
Took it to the range. The good news is it was no longer 4 feet low. It was 2" low and 3" right, some of the time. Once it was almost right on.
I loosened and tightened the suppressor and shot multiple groups. An occasional round or two was within 1/2" of the point of aim, but mostly low and right by a couple inches. Group size was at best 1/2" and at worst 3+ and strung diagonally. With the suppressor off, 10 shots went into a ragged hole at 25 yds.
I could not feel that I was tightening the suppressor differently each time. It did not loosen during the string and it did not get hot. The first pic is without a suppressor, probably more than 10 shots there, but you get the idea. In the bottom pic, the shot with the black X labeled "cold barrel" was without the suppressor and the point of aim was 5/8" below the entry hole.