Compound bows and upgrades

Been eyeing up some compound bows but the selection is dizzying. Plus there seems to be beginner - advanced type bows, equipment, etc... If I was to buy an entry bow, like a Hoyt Powermax, can I keep upgrading it as I get better or will I grow out of it?

If you are not still 'growing' (as in physical stature), you won't 'outgrow' it..

I would suggest going to a pro shop that sells bows (not a box store that sells archery gear) and get properly measured for draw length. This is probably the single most important aspect of fitting a bow to an archer. Most of the compound bows today can be adjusted for draw weight, some for draw length, but not all. Some bows require cam changes to change the draw length and that is a little prohibitive. You will likely start out shooting a lighter draw weight until you build up those muscle groups and can comfortably draw and hold a higher weight. A compound will usually have about a 10lb range of adjustment in draw weight, more than enough to satisfy most.

Get properly measured by a shop and then you can shop around for the bow you want. There are many that upgrade their bow every year to have the 'latest and greatest', others shoot the same bow for years on end, just depends on how crazy you get into it.. Some of the archery forums have a classifieds section where you can find used bows for a good price (they really don't hold value well)...

What would your intended use be? Hunting, flingin arrows in the backyard, competitive archery? Many of the clubs around have intro to archery classes available (Anne Arundel Archers is one close by my that does offer beginner instruction) and I would highly recommend that if you are serious about getting into archery.

Sticky said:

If you are not still 'growing' (as in physical stature), you won't 'outgrow' it..

I would suggest going to a pro shop that sells bows (not a box store that sells archery gear) and get properly measured for draw length. This is probably the single most important aspect of fitting a bow to an archer. Most of the compound bows today can be adjusted for draw weight, some for draw length, but not all. Some bows require cam changes to change the draw length and that is a little prohibitive. You will likely start out shooting a lighter draw weight until you build up those muscle groups and can comfortably draw and hold a higher weight. A compound will usually have about a 10lb range of adjustment in draw weight, more than enough to satisfy most.

Get properly measured by a shop and then you can shop around for the bow you want. There are many that upgrade their bow every year to have the 'latest and greatest', others shoot the same bow for years on end, just depends on how crazy you get into it.. lol

What would your intended use be? Hunting, flingin arrows in the backyard, competitive archery? Many of the clubs around have intro to archery classes available (Anne Arundel Archers is one close by my that does offer beginner instruction) and I would highly recommend that if you are serious about getting into archery.

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Thanks! AA Archers is really close for me, so I'll give them a shout. I am interested in 3D.

With respect to the bow, I assume one can change out the components as they get better and better? At what point does the frame, because I don't know what else to call it, become undesirable? I am guessing it's a weight-thing and maybe some bells & whistles that make the more expensive bows, expensive?

The riser is what I believe you are referring to as the frame will usually last a very very long time. Same goes for the limbs. Strings will need replaced every couple years more or less depending on how much you shoot it. If it's 3d shooting you want to get into I would strongly advise you to look at bows with a longer axle to axle. The short axle hunting bows are great in tight areas like a tree stand or blind but much less forgiving to shoot. Typically the longer the axle length and brace height the more forgiving the bow will be of minor flaws in your form. They do make some hunting bows with longer axle length and more brace height and any bow shop worth its salt should let you try multiple bows so you can get a feel for them before you buy. Don't rule out a used bow you can upgrade the sights, rest, stabilizer, and peep to find what you like then when your ready for a new bow all of those things can be moved over to the new one.

steves1911 said:

The riser is what I believe you are referring to as the frame will usually last a very very long time. Same goes for the limbs. Strings will need replaced every couple years more or less depending on how much you shoot it. If it's 3d shooting you want to get into I would strongly advise you to look at bows with a longer axle to axle. The short axle hunting bows are great in tight areas like a tree stand or blind but much less forgiving to shoot. Typically the longer the axle length and brace height the more forgiving the bow will be of minor flaws in your form. They do make some hunting bows with longer axle length and more brace height and any bow shop worth its salt should let you try multiple bows so you can get a feel for them before you buy. Don't rule out a used bow you can upgrade the sights, rest, stabilizer, and peep to find what you like then when your ready for a new bow all of those things can be moved over to the new one.

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^^ Precisely..

http://annearundelarchers.club/

Most of the archery clubs hold 3D shoots, there are plenty of opportunities there.

Yoshi said:

Thanks! AA Archers is really close for me, so I'll give them a shout. I am interested in 3D.

With respect to the bow, I assume one can change out the components as they get better and better? At what point does the frame, because I don't know what else to call it, become undesirable? I am guessing it's a weight-thing and maybe some bells & whistles that make the more expensive bows, expensive?

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AA Archers: Are you referring to the club on Rte 3 south in Crofton/Gambrills? If so, I'm there a lot. Plan to be there tonight even.

Components: Peeps, sights, releases, arrow rests, arrows, stabilizers all customizable. Some limits on the choice depending Style and Classes rules,. Quick check of the 3D rules opens up some things like number of pins in a sight for Bow Hunter Freestyle from 5 to unlimited.

Releases, Still trying to find the best, will be trying a hinge next week when it arrives. If it works will have a really nice trigger release for sale...

Arrows, mindnumbing... stiffness, length and point weight... vanes?

Stabilizer and weights, I think I've found the right balance...


BTW, What Sticky said about draw length. Draw Length very important, I finally went to a shop and they shortened my bows draw length to me by 1.5". Very awkward at first, now it feels right.

Releases are personal preference.

Good advice here.

usa259 said:

AA Archers: Are you referring to the club on Rte 3 south in Crofton/Gambrills? If so, I'm there a lot. Plan to be there tonight even.

Components: Peeps, sights, releases, arrow rests, arrows, stabilizers all customizable. Some limits on the choice depending Style and Classes rules,. Quick check of the 3D rules opens up some things like number of pins in a sight for Bow Hunter Freestyle from 5 to unlimited.

Releases, Still trying to find the best, will be trying a hinge next week when it arrives. If it works will have a really nice trigger release for sale...

Arrows, mindnumbing... stiffness, length and point weight... vanes?

Stabilizer and weights, I think I've found the right balance...


BTW, What Sticky said about draw length. Draw Length very important, I finally went to a shop and they shortened my bows draw length to me by 1.5". Very awkward at first, now it feels right.

Click to expand...

Yes, that's the one. I am there frequently as well, shooting a freestyle setup and often wearing some type of 2A related t-shirt.. lol

The MAA (Md Archery Assn) has a website with tons of info on clubs, classes, etc... http://www.md-archery.org/

Arrows need to be properly spined for your bow and setup, this is important! You can refer to most of the arrow mfr's website for spine charts based on your setup to find the 'right' spine in a given arrow. us are tons of options, from aluminum (us ol timers used em for decades), carbon, carbon/aluminum composites. Wooden arrows are for recurves of very light weight and most clubs prohibit them. Most clubs also prohibit broadheads of any type and crossbows.

Releases are, as mentioned, a personal preference. There are a thousand options out there and some even still shoot fingers (often with a finger tab as I learned). Most shoot a release, as it minimizes some of the issues that shooting fingers introduces. I shoot a hinge (backtension release) and I have done it for so long, it's the only way I can shoot. I even hunt with a hinge..

Or for those of us with gorilla length arms, a release is the only way to get a long enough draw length.

A bow with longer axle to axle length and a high brace height used to be the ticket on older equipment. Moderate cam design as well until you can develop your form and learn by shooting with others. A release will give good results right off. Archery is fun and a good discipline. Advance to better equipment as your skill level increases and talk to others to avoid the gimmicks. I used to shoot there when that was B&o Bowman right after they moved from The laurel club. Make sure arrows are matched to your bow like mentioned above and shoot as much as you can.

All excellent advice. Go to a real "bow" shop. Now is a good time to find deals on last year's models. Get the best bow you can afford. It will last a very long time.