80% Glock build costs

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  • ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,480
    Fairfax, VA
    Polymer80 has a booth at Outdoor Show in Harrisburg. Anybody stop by?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Yeah, I did. They fixed the issue on their 17 frame that the earlier ones had with the ejector housing sitting loose in there.

    I also held the 19 frame and really like the grip, so I'm going to buy one.
     

    Shoobedoo

    US Army Veteran
    Jun 1, 2013
    10,956
    Keyser WV
    Yeah, I did. They fixed the issue on their 17 frame that the earlier ones had with the ejector housing sitting loose in there.

    I also held the 19 frame and really like the grip, so I'm going to buy one.

    I have one of those early frames, and with mine it was a major problem that effectively stopped the gun from working properly. The fix in my case was to install a hard plastic shim of the right thickness wedged in between the front of the trigger housing and the frame, it was a bit of an engineering challenge to craft something of the right thickness, and also shaped so it would stay firmly in place under recoil. Some guys were using pieces of expired credit cards etc., but that wasn't a very tight fit in mine, and I doubt it would stay in place very well in the long run. My custom made "shim" hasn't wiggled loose after several hundred rounds of full powered .40, but it's just a tight "friction fit" so I'm working on some way of securing it more or less permanently in place. Super glue won't work, I tried that, for some reason it won't adhere to the polymer, so I'll have to find some other type of glue/adhesive.

    I'm kind of ticked at Polymer80 that they didn't have this issue "fixed" right out of the gate, I'm sure there are more than a few guys that got frustrated with this problem and just gave up and tossed it into a junk parts bin. They also really should have designed the original frame with drop in rear metal rails like the new G19 frame will have, and perhaps they'll come out with a "revised" full size 9/40 frame in the future, but I tip my hat to them for offering these 80% frames to the shooting community, and I'm glad to see they are making improvements along the way.

    Building an 80% Glock isn't about saving money, but I've learned a lot about Glock pistols working on mine, my Poly80 runs great now, and many of the things I discovered while tinkering around with it are applicable to customizing and general work on factory Glock's as well, so it was a worthwhile undertaking, all things considered.
     

    redeemed.man

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 29, 2013
    17,444
    HoCo
    I have one of those early frames, and with mine it was a major problem that effectively stopped the gun from working properly. The fix in my case was to install a hard plastic shim of the right thickness wedged in between the front of the trigger housing and the frame, it was a bit of an engineering challenge to craft something of the right thickness, and also shaped so it would stay firmly in place under recoil. Some guys were using pieces of expired credit cards etc., but that wasn't a very tight fit in mine, and I doubt it would stay in place very well in the long run. My custom made "shim" hasn't wiggled loose after several hundred rounds of full powered .40, but it's just a tight "friction fit" so I'm working on some way of securing it more or less permanently in place. Super glue won't work, I tried that, for some reason it won't adhere to the polymer, so I'll have to find some other type of glue/adhesive.

    I'm kind of ticked at Polymer80 that they didn't have this issue "fixed" right out of the gate, I'm sure there are more than a few guys that got frustrated with this problem and just gave up and tossed it into a junk parts bin. They also really should have designed the original frame with drop in rear metal rails like the new G19 frame will have, and perhaps they'll come out with a "revised" full size 9/40 frame in the future, but I tip my hat to them for offering these 80% frames to the shooting community, and I'm glad to see they are making improvements along the way.

    Building an 80% Glock isn't about saving money, but I've learned a lot about Glock pistols working on mine, my Poly80 runs great now, and many of the things I discovered while tinkering around with it are applicable to customizing and general work on factory Glock's as well, so it was a worthwhile undertaking, all things considered.
    Care to share any photos of what the rear plastic rails look like after several thousand rounds of .40?
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,480
    Fairfax, VA
    They just published the directions for the new Glock 19 one, so you guys can look that up if you're interested in seeing how little work it really takes. The front locking block also attaches to the frame with a pin (meaning three pins total will secure it) rather than screws like the Glock 17 one. It also includes a steel rear pin, so that saves me the trouble of having to buy a set of steel pins in order to get the rear.

    I have one of those early frames, and with mine it was a major problem that effectively stopped the gun from working properly. The fix in my case was to install a hard plastic shim of the right thickness wedged in between the front of the trigger housing and the frame, it was a bit of an engineering challenge to craft something of the right thickness, and also shaped so it would stay firmly in place under recoil. Some guys were using pieces of expired credit cards etc., but that wasn't a very tight fit in mine, and I doubt it would stay in place very well in the long run. My custom made "shim" hasn't wiggled loose after several hundred rounds of full powered .40, but it's just a tight "friction fit" so I'm working on some way of securing it more or less permanently in place. Super glue won't work, I tried that, for some reason it won't adhere to the polymer, so I'll have to find some other type of glue/adhesive.

    I'm kind of ticked at Polymer80 that they didn't have this issue "fixed" right out of the gate, I'm sure there are more than a few guys that got frustrated with this problem and just gave up and tossed it into a junk parts bin. They also really should have designed the original frame with drop in rear metal rails like the new G19 frame will have, and perhaps they'll come out with a "revised" full size 9/40 frame in the future, but I tip my hat to them for offering these 80% frames to the shooting community, and I'm glad to see they are making improvements along the way.

    Building an 80% Glock isn't about saving money, but I've learned a lot about Glock pistols working on mine, my Poly80 runs great now, and many of the things I discovered while tinkering around with it are applicable to customizing and general work on factory Glock's as well, so it was a worthwhile undertaking, all things considered.

    I had bought one of those earlier ones for a friend to build. I called them today and the CS department told me to destroy it by cutting it in half, send them a picture, and they'll send me a new one. I did just that and they said a new frame should ship tomorrow.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    I got one of those early 17 frames with the loose pocket. Just sent an e-mail out, I'll call in the morning to follow-up.

    Have to say, slightly annoying, but if they handle it like they did with ken792 - then I won't complain any.
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,480
    Fairfax, VA
    I got one of those early 17 frames with the loose pocket. Just sent an e-mail out, I'll call in the morning to follow-up.

    Have to say, slightly annoying, but if they handle it like they did with ken792 - then I won't complain any.

    It shouldn't be an issue. The guy over the phone didn't even ask if I had built it yet. He just told me to destroy it and send a picture before I could explain any further. They really did ship it out yesterday like they said they would. It's supposed to arrive tomorrow. They'll send you an email when yours ships.

    I do not like the grip on their current 17 frames. With the way I hold a Glock to place more finger onto the trigger (to not pull left), it's just not comfortable. This one is for a friend. They did say on their Facebook page that they might design a 17 frame in the style of their soon to be released 19 frame if that design proves popular.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    What annoyed me more, I got my parts kits today - turns out the slide lock spring from a 19 WON'T work in their 17 frame. Someone more versed in Glock's would've probably known that, I didn't.

    Learned that today.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    They want me to take the 'wait and see' approach with the full-size. "Build it out, and shoot it some - see what happens."

    Not the answer I was hoping for, but if it becomes a problem-child, we'll address that issue.
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,480
    Fairfax, VA
    Replacement 17 kit arrived. Not only did they fix the ejector pocket issue, they also fixed the locking block issue. The locking block will still be a tight fit, but you won't have to pound it in like in the old one.
     

    Shoobedoo

    US Army Veteran
    Jun 1, 2013
    10,956
    Keyser WV
    They want me to take the 'wait and see' approach with the full-size. "Build it out, and shoot it some - see what happens."

    Not the answer I was hoping for, but if it becomes a problem-child, we'll address that issue.

    If there is any significant forward/rearward "slop" or back and forth rocking of the trigger housing in the frame it's going to drag on the slide when you cycle it and cause you big problems, or at least it did on mine, but as I mentioned in an earlier post I came up with a pretty good solution that has worked well for me thus far. If you get to that point, PM me if you want and I'll email you some pics of how I dealt with the issue if you like.

    Chopping a frame in half and sending it back just isn't something I want to do at this point, I mean it's nice of them to offer and all I guess, but then you still have to start all over again milling the frame and installing parts etc.

    In the longer term, if their G19/23 frame with drop in rear rails is a success, I'm hoping they'll redesign the full size frame and release a revised version with drop in metal rear rails. I would assume by that point they'll have any issues with the loose frame fit for the trigger housing resolved.
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,480
    Fairfax, VA
    I didn't have to send it back, just send them a picture to show destruction. The frame had not yet been built yet, so no loss there.

    They did mention on their Facebook page that they may come out with a full size version of their 19 frame with the drop in rear rails if it proves popular. But yeah, they have revised their current 17 frames to not have the loose issue anymore.
     

    Fox123

    Ultimate Member
    May 21, 2012
    3,926
    Rosedale, MD
    I have one of those early frames, and with mine it was a major problem that effectively stopped the gun from working properly. The fix in my case was to install a hard plastic shim of the right thickness wedged in between the front of the trigger housing and the frame, it was a bit of an engineering challenge to craft something of the right thickness, and also shaped so it would stay firmly in place under recoil. Some guys were using pieces of expired credit cards etc., but that wasn't a very tight fit in mine, and I doubt it would stay in place very well in the long run. My custom made "shim" hasn't wiggled loose after several hundred rounds of full powered .40, but it's just a tight "friction fit" so I'm working on some way of securing it more or less permanently in place. Super glue won't work, I tried that, for some reason it won't adhere to the polymer, so I'll have to find some other type of glue/adhesive.

    I'm kind of ticked at Polymer80 that they didn't have this issue "fixed" right out of the gate, I'm sure there are more than a few guys that got frustrated with this problem and just gave up and tossed it into a junk parts bin. They also really should have designed the original frame with drop in rear metal rails like the new G19 frame will have, and perhaps they'll come out with a "revised" full size 9/40 frame in the future, but I tip my hat to them for offering these 80% frames to the shooting community, and I'm glad to see they are making improvements along the way.

    Building an 80% Glock isn't about saving money, but I've learned a lot about Glock pistols working on mine, my Poly80 runs great now, and many of the things I discovered while tinkering around with it are applicable to customizing and general work on factory Glock's as well, so it was a worthwhile undertaking, all things considered.


    I had same problem, used credit cards but also notified polymer80 and they sent me whole new frame.


    Old one was working fine so got 2 for price of 1
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    If there is any significant forward/rearward "slop" or back and forth rocking of the trigger housing in the frame it's going to drag on the slide when you cycle it and cause you big problems, or at least it did on mine, but as I mentioned in an earlier post I came up with a pretty good solution that has worked well for me thus far. If you get to that point, PM me if you want and I'll email you some pics of how I dealt with the issue if you like.

    Chopping a frame in half and sending it back just isn't something I want to do at this point, I mean it's nice of them to offer and all I guess, but then you still have to start all over again milling the frame and installing parts etc.

    In the longer term, if their G19/23 frame with drop in rear rails is a success, I'm hoping they'll redesign the full size frame and release a revised version with drop in metal rear rails. I would assume by that point they'll have any issues with the loose frame fit for the trigger housing resolved.

    I've actually used a piece of spring steel from a Mossberg 500 trigger housing repair kit to shim up the trigger housing in the frame. Movement is absolutely minimal now, but I won't know how it'll function until the rest of my parts arrive.

    To Polymer80's credit, the email was sent after hours last night, and they called me shortly after opening this morning.

    Personally I wouldn't mind starting from scratch again, but I'll get it together and see how it goes. If it's a problem child, we'll see what can be done to resolve it.
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,480
    Fairfax, VA
    So my friend came over and did his 80% Glock 17 build while I watched, made suggestions, and observed. He did it with a hand drill, Dremel, and hand tools. Here are my tips and observations:

    Building

    1. The front of the frame does not need to be ground flush with the jig for the slide to clear the frame. A 120 grit sanding drum makes short work of it, and a mill bastard file cleans it up real nice.

    2. The current kits come with the proper metric drill bits in 3mm and 4mm and are more or less a perfect fit. Only one I'd want looser is the trigger pin since it's retained by the slide stop anyway, for easily assembly/disassembly.

    3. After drilling the holes with the jig as per the instructions, pull the drill bits back and forth (either no power or turn at slow speed) through them to ream the holes straight.

    4. The trigger pin hole in the included locking block was too small for the trigger pin. Running the 4mm drill bit through it did not fix it. He used the locking block from an older kit that was replaced under warranty.

    5. Clean up the trigger pin hole with the 4mm bit after installing the locking block. That will ensure the frame hole is in line with the holes in the locking block. The holes weren't quite in line after drilling with the jig.

    6. He used the rear rail milling bit to drill a few holes along the back with the jig to mark the depth of the rail (go along the top of the slot). Then, he used a needle file to cut the rear rails, but it could be done with a hacksaw blade too. It does not take long.

    7. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MAKE A TIGHT GUN. Fit it as loose as a factory Glock.

    Completed Gun

    1. It will need a trigger over-travel stop. Unlike a factory Glock frame, it does not have ribs to prevent the trigger bar from bowing out to the right, and the back of the trigger does not bottom out against the frame. If you press the trigger back too hard, the firing pin safety tab will seize the frame.

    2. The ejector box still sits a bit loose, but it is not a problem with the 9mm gun. He did not shim it. His has the much maligned 336 ejector box, not the Gen 4 30274.

    3. Magazine release is a little sticky, though 100% functional. It may be dressed with a needle file.

    4. I fired 50 rounds through it flawlessly, without lube too since we had forgot to lube it up. My friend fired 120 rounds, but he had a lot of failures to go into battery, and later three point jams and the slide not locking back. We believe he is limp wristing and possibly squeezing the trigger too tight (item #1). We should have had him fire the donor gun first before we cannibalized it to see if he shoots that fine.

    5. The grip feels like a 2x4, not comfortable at all.
     

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