Glock Connectors

Bafflingbs said:

Ghost connecters, all the way.

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kmittleman said:

What specifically do they do and are they reliable?

K

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kmittleman said:

Hey Guys,


I've been experimenting with my Gen4 G34 in terms of changing out various OEM parts. I'm trying to get the trigger feel to be more like my G3 G19 which breaks right after the "wall".

So far I've added a G3 Trigger Bar and 5.5lb Connector. The feel is improved a little, but there's still no definite break after the "wall". I was thinking of adding the DOT connector - anyone try that one?

Have you all ever messed with this stuff?

K

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timkz said:

Ghost PRO 3.3 lb Trigger Connector. It needs to be "fitted" to your gun but it's worth the effort!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ghost-PRO-3...-for-Glocks-/361393381914?hash=item5424b9621a

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ken792 said:

Heavier trigger spring is a good combo with the heavier connector. It makes the pull shorter and crisper.

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alucard0822 said:

I do the same trigger job on all of mine. I swap in a smooth faced 3G trigger bar, stone the striker block contact surface and striker sear surface flat and polish the bar, this dramatically smooths the trigger, drops 2nd stage pull weight a bit and makes it more consistent. Chuck the striker block in a drill, just barely break the edge angle, and polish it, the pull will then be dead smooth. Add and/or polish a factory 4G "." connector, it has the best mix of pull weight vs creep IMO in all pistols. Lighter connectors add too much creep, have tried several aftermarket connectors, and a couple "-", but keep going back to the factory "dot" for everything. Use a heavier trigger spring, it won't change the 2nd stage break weight, but does reduce the 1st stage takeup weight, making the break more predictible and distinct. Aftermarket connectors can indeed have issues, primarily a crappy reset because the end isn't bent perfectly perpendicular, so it gives a mushy "thud" instead of an abrupt "click", the overtravel stop tabs are so far down the linkage that it feels too soft when bottoming out. Some designs can stress and break, and they have to be tensioned properly, so you can have a hard reset as the parts grind past each other, or too soft of a reset. Some like the Zev solve the issues with creep with trigger adjustments, but they are expensive, and can bypass some of the passive safeties.

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kmittleman said:

Cool thanks guys for taking the time to respond. Which heavier spring do you all use or recommend?

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alucard0822 said:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/611080/zev-technologies-competition-trigger-spring-glock-all-models

Unlike most other designs, the trigger spring actually assists the trigger pull, makes the first stage lighter, it also applies upward pressure on the trigger bar to catch the striker as it moves into battery, so potentially more reliable if parts are worn. Doesn't really affect the second stage pull as it's pretty much bottomed out when the trigger bar hits the connector, and slides down to release the striker.

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ken792 said:

I actually went the opposite direction with my Gen 4 19 that a lot of people go. I did put the Gen 3 17 trigger in it, but I also put a Lone Wolf 3.5lb connector in it to make the pull longer, but lighter. I don't stage my trigger pull with pistols, so I don't want the "wall" that people like on a crisp trigger. I just pull straight through the trigger without stopping.

You can also look into the NY1 Glock trigger spring. I know some people like to run that along with a 3.5lb/minus connector. Instead of helping you pull the trigger back like a stock spring, it basically provides resistance for the trigger cruciform riding down.

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