recommendation for a digital scale. ..

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  • Shamr0ck

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 6, 2011
    2,505
    Frederick
    Just trying to learn.... Is a 550 not a good one for 308?


    Plenty of folks use a 550 to load for 308 (just ask DaemonAssassin). The 550 does a fine job of performing each stage - BUT the construction of the charge bar (which determines the amount of powder) makes it challenging to get consistent charge weights for extruded powders.

    The 550 does a fine job with sphere and flake powders.

    I use W231 presently for 45ACP and it meters fine through the 550. The label says 231 is a 'ball' powder but to my 47yo eyes it looks more like a flat flake.

    I will use a different powder drop for RL15 for my 223 loads as it is an extruded powder. (Looks like tiny pieces of mechanical pencil lead)
     

    lkenefic

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 19, 2011
    3,778
    Just trying to learn.... Is a 550 not a good one for 308?

    I'm sure there are a lot that load .308 on a 550B. In my opinion, I think it depends upon what you want your end product to be and what volume you're reloading. I know those that use a progressive press to reload for semi auto rifles and are very happy with 1MOA loads. I feel I have more control over the process (especially charges) when I load on a single stage press and measure each charge. But then again, I'm putting these loads in a Remington 700 HV short action that's been pillar bedded into a McGee prone stock (now single shot) specifically made for 500 yd prone matches I used to shoot at Phoenix R&G. I want to wring every bit of accuracy I can out of this set-up. Factory match loads (Federal 168 gr HPBTM) consistently give me 0.5 MOA on this set up at 100 yds if I do my part on the trigger. I think I can do a bit better if I hand load my own... if I can find the magic load and get groups consistently in the 2's, I might even try my hand at benchrest... it's something I've never done... probably because I've never had that amount of trigger control and I've never owned a rifle that had that potential (on my "beer" budget).
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    The label says 231 is a 'ball' powder but to my 47yo eyes it looks more like a flat flake.

    They are flattened balls. :)

    Not a joke, they are balls that have been rolled flat to increase the surface area to volume ratio.
     

    Biff_N

    Active Member
    Jan 7, 2010
    381
    Not to get off topic on selecting a digital scale but I have seen them vary slightly when used around fluorescent lighting. For this reason I use incandescent bulbs over my loading bench.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    Just trying to learn.... Is a 550 not a good one for
    308?

    I make my own 308 match rounds on my 550. I can run it as a progressive or a single stage. When I am making the precision 308 ammo with extruded powders, I will use my Lyman #55 Powder Measure to dispense each charge, then weigh that charge on my Dillon Eliminator beam scale. Pretty much I am only using the 550 as a single stage for FL size, de-prime, prime, and seating, when using extruded powders.

    When I use W760 or W748, I will run it as a semi-progressive press, because I still weigh out every powder charge, for the precision rounds. The powder charge bar system on the 550 is supposedly accurate to within 1/10th of a grain, but I like to be spot on, if I am making the precision coyote killers or precision rounds. If I'm making plinking ammo for my 308, just to keep in practice, I really don't care about being 1/10th of a grain off.

    If you attempt to use extruded powders in the powder system on the 550, you will throw some seriously inconsistent charges. I calibrated mine for 40gr of IMR3031 (or so I thought). I threw 10 charges that were spot on at 40gr. The next 10 I threw, were between 37-43gr of powder. After doing the research on it, I found that the way the powder system is set up, it is not designed to meter extruded powders very easily. You will get better charge consistency when using ball or flake powders, due to how they fill the charge bar cavity.

    If you would like to make some 308, but don't have the setup yet, let me know and we'll get together and you can make some on my 550.

    Plenty of folks use a 550 to load for 308 (just ask DaemonAssassin). The 550 does a fine job of performing each stage - BUT the construction of the charge bar (which determines the amount of powder) makes it challenging to get consistent charge weights for extruded powders.

    The 550 does a fine job with sphere and flake powders.

    Thank you, my friend. BTW, I'm putting the order in with Dillon next week. Also If you want to get some 40 loaded up, the dies are here and need to have the dust blown off of them. :lol2:
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    I'm sure there are a lot that load .308 on a 550B. In my opinion, I think it depends upon what you want your end product to be and what volume you're reloading. I know those that use a progressive press to reload for semi auto rifles and are very happy with 1MOA loads. I feel I have more control over the process (especially charges) when I load on a single stage press and measure each charge. But then again, I'm putting these loads in a Remington 700 HV short action that's been pillar bedded into a McGee prone stock (now single shot) specifically made for 500 yd prone matches I used to shoot at Phoenix R&G. I want to wring every bit of accuracy I can out of this set-up. Factory match loads (Federal 168 gr HPBTM) consistently give me 0.5 MOA on this set up at 100 yds if I do my part on the trigger. I think I can do a bit better if I hand load my own... if I can find the magic load and get groups consistently in the 2's, I might even try my hand at benchrest... it's something I've never done... probably because I've never had that amount of trigger control and I've never owned a rifle that had that potential (on my "beer" budget).

    When I am maintaining 1/1000th of an inch of where I set my dies, does that qualify as good enough precision? I'm not running as a progressive at that point, I'm running the 550 as a single stage for those rounds. I am making ammo that is right around .5 MOA or better at 100 yards on the 550.

    It is essentially doing the same thing that somebody with a single stage press does, nothing more. The only difference is that we don't have to swap individual dies out when we change over to the next reloading stage. We just move it to the next station on the shell holder. ;) :D
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    Not to get off topic on selecting a digital scale but I have seen them vary slightly when used around fluorescent lighting. For this reason I use incandescent bulbs over my loading bench.

    I use sunlight, a bunch of lightning bugs in jars, or a lot of glow sticks. I kid, I kid.

    Instead of incandescent, why not got with an LED? Brighter light and less power used.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Not sure if LED makes electronic noise, since they are running some form of power supply to adjust voltage.

    And it is not just the Dillion powder measure. Most powder measures do not handle extruded, especially large granule, powders well.

    Measure and trickle, or scope and trickle, or a automated (RCBS Chargemaster) are the way to go for precision rounds and extruded powders.

    I will load even reasonably precise rounds with ball powders on my Dillon. If you used the OCW method of load development, a small variation in charge weight will not affect your group size.
     

    Traveler

    Lighten up Francis
    Jan 18, 2013
    8,227
    AA County
    Not to get off topic on selecting a digital scale but I have seen them vary slightly when used around fluorescent lighting. For this reason I use incandescent bulbs over my loading bench.

    How about LED lighting? Oops, should have read all the way down.
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,501
    AA Co
    I have a Dillon 1200 grain electronic and I never use it. It is way to sensitive with any air moving in my shop.
    I still use my old RCBS 10-10 balance beam and the funny part is, It can be 30° or 100° in my shop and it never needs to be plugged in before hand, it never needs warmed up for 30 min or a day before I want to use it. No batterys to go dead,
    I don't have to ever up grade the software or make a trip to McDonalds to get a special straw so it works kinna sorta better or find just the correct piece of a ball point pen that will help it throw and measure Varget powder.
    Its just mechanical and it works very well every time.
    Coop
    Mee tooo... I have two electronic scales and went back to the old beam balance from RCBS. It is actually quicker for me than when I was using the electronic scales and yes, I have fluorescent lighting, which I am not going to replace just for that reason.. It is also quicker for me when loading for precision rifle, where I throw and trickle.. much quicker than waiting for the electronic scale to 'settle in' each time..
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    I find the beam scale much faster for repeating something, like checking or trickling a charge.

    Digital faster for weight sorting bullets.

    But what ever you do, DO NOT buy a Lee beam scale. I had heard they were not so great. But last Monday, I helped Joker with his first reloading, and he had one. MANY, what a POS and HARD TO USE.

    Get an RCBS, Lyman, Dillon or other quality beam RELOADING scale.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    Good suggestion I will research it before changing. Up to now I just used the existing fixtures that were in the basement.

    Keep in mind that LED lightbulbs are expensive as hell, but they are worth it in the long run due to the amount of light they produce with so little power, and they generate no noise or heat, when turned on.
     

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